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How did you get away with that on the doors.... after adjusting for days we still had to put an entire can of rage gold and counting on the doors, hopefully we will be done tomorrow..... im considering calling FFR and requesting new doors now.
 

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Excellent job on the license plate bud.
I'm not sure i understand tho, at the LCS they said it fit like a glove, no mod.
You must of done something wrong eh? ;-)
T
 

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Discussion Starter #64
...at the LCS they said it fit like a glove...
Yeah, they did didn't they. I also remember that anyone who happened to run their hand across the bottom of the plate brought back bloody fingers! It was a little sharp, if you get my drift ;)

Jeff
 

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Great solution on the license plate!! That is going in the book for future use in Maryland. :001_tongue:
 

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Discussion Starter #67
You know how they say that a sign of insanity is to repeat something expecting different results? Well, call me crazy! When I did my car I found that riveting the hood hinge plate to the hood just did not work out very well. Steve stopped over yesterday afternoon so since I had an extra set of hands it seemed like the perfect opportunity to install the hinge and mount the hood. I riveted the plate to the hood. Sure enough as we were working through the adjustments the ominous creaks and groans started and the rivets loosened their grip on the single layer of fiberglass. Not having any rivnuts on hand I went to plan B which was to drill a couple of extra holes in the plates and bond them to the hood with HSRF. Used the rivets to hold things together while it set up for a few hours. Took a second stab at it later yesterday evening and had it installed and adjusted in less than 30 minutes. Success!



The next discovery resulted in a "do-over" but it was due to forgetfulness, not insanity. I figured this out on my car also but spaced it. If you use these predrilled holes to mount the ball stud barcket for the gas cylinders...



...they will bottom out before the hood fully seats and will push a hump into it when you fasten the back edge.

To solve it just move the mount up (rearward) by one hole:



The hood fits good and the hinges work well.



I just need to install the latches and then this thing is ready to tear down!

AUME, man I wish I had some words of wisdom for you. The door fit on this car was just like my Mk3, which was just like STL-Scott's, Thierry's, Jon A's and many others. Don't know what you have going on :confused1: Can you show us some pictures?

Jeff
 

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Wannabe Roadster Builder
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Thanks for all the pics and information in this thread. It gives the uninitiated a good look at the fun ahead. A very nice clean build. I hope I can do something close when my time comes.
 

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Snake Farmer
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Great work on solving that rear license plate issue!:)

Any plans for a custom front license plate bracket, or does the State not require them to be displayed?

These cars really aren't suited for a front plate. The commercially available brackets I have seen so far, (although they work fine), just don't do anything for the look of the car. I would love to see a new idea for this.
 

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Would it be better to use Rivnuts on the hood hinge and support mounts?
 

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Jeff,

I just ran across this thread, turns out it is very timely for me as I am in the middle of my body work right now. I can appreciate the problems fitting the parts. Nothing fit on mine, doors were bad, hood was bad, trunk was bad, seams didn't line up, and the cowl over the dash had a huge flat spot in the middle that made everything look lopsided.

Without going on forever, I am at the point of rolling the cockpit and door edges. I wonder if you could elaborate on that point here. I see you used Rage for this, how did you apply it, and more importantly will just Rage be sufficient here? It looks like about a 1/2 inch build and it would seem to me that this would be easy to crack if something hit it or too much weight was applied (someone leans on it). Oh, and how do you make the roll consistent along the entire line?

Thanks

Murray
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
Carbon, sure you could use Rivnuts if you can find ones sized properly. The shank can not be longer than .5" or it will bottom out on the underside of the top layer of fiberglass before it is flush with the inner. A 10-32 would probably be about the largest to fit that bill.

Murray, sounds like you have a Mk3 or earlier. I did the entire cockpit roll on my Mk3; the Mk4 only has to have the doors done. As I mentioned when speaking of the doors some guys use split PVC pipe as a tool. That method and I have never gotten along but I do have decent luck using a split rubber radiator hose to shape the mud while pulling it. Take a look at these two descriptions to get some ideas:

STL-Scott's beginning at post #99

Greg M's begin here and keep moving forward through his photos and text. He also addresses the wonky cowl. I've never heard of a case of the Rage coming loose or cracking.

Good luck with yours,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Well, it's been a while so I am past due for an update. I was out of town for two weeks and then took another weekend to go play with my own car :)



Before pulling the body from Steve's #7276 I double checked the seat fit. Driver's side was good but I moved the passenger seat inward about 1/2" to give easier access to the door latch. Additionally I wanted to tighten and sharpen up some of the body gaps such as at the door tops:





I determined and marked the centerlines with the hood and trunklid installed to help with stripe layout later (notice that passenger side engine offset we hear about?):





After removing the body it was just a lot of sanding and some wheelwell opening touchup in prep for the next round of Slick Sand. I also cut the hood opening flange down to a consistent ~1/4" all the way around and smoothed the lower edge:



Giving everything a final clean Friday evening I looked at the doors post bodywork and thought how they are like rings on a tree---raw fiberglass to gelcoat to the first application of Slick Sand to multiple layers of Rage Gold and final glaze!



Yesterday was round 2 of Slick Sand with another gallon going on. Steve stopped by as I was between coats and after getting a whiff inside the garage understood why I told him it's not a good idea to spend much time around this stuff without a respirator!

Here's that same door afterwards:



I'm real pleased so far. I took a tip from Greg_M, gathereing a bit of the catalyzed product from my paint cup and mixing bucket as it was beginning to firm up then saved it in a sealed jar. After the SS had been down for a few hours I went around with the jar of schmootz and an artist's brush dabbing it into a few voids/pinholes on the door and hood edges and trunk opening.

A couple of tips I'll pass on that I learned when I did my car. Most of the inexpensive primer guns come with a 1.8mm tip which is a bit small for Featherfill and Slick Sand. Fluid tips for these inexpensive guns are either unavailable or cost nearly as much as the guns themselves. I simply opened mine up to about 2.1mm (.0826") by drilling it with a #45 bit (.0820"). The 1.8 needle still seats just fine and it works well to deliver additional material smoothly. Speaking of delivering material smoothly, we all know that the smoother the surface the less sanding is required. What I do is make the first couple of passes with Featherfill or Slick Sand mixed per specs to get the high build then for the final coat add 5-10% fast reducer or acetone. It really helps it flow and lay down slick greatly reducing the amount of sanding to make it flat.

And with the mention of sanding, that's what is ahead of me next. But first.......



Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Ohio C-car Club
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What's wrong with Wal-Mart and Miller Hi-Life? I just bought a 12 pack for the new J-Staff member in Facilities who just moved in across the street from us. He told me Miller (when he says it sounds like Mirror) is his favorite American Beer.!

Looks good Jeff, hopefully a lot less sanding is required before the paint. I'm guessing not much and your good to go straight to BC over the slick sand!

Scott

Did you get that at Wall-Mart EH! LOL ;-)
And with the mention of sanding, that's what is ahead of me next. But first.......



Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #77
A sixteen hour day yesterday kicked my arse but it is sprayed. Even after sleeping a few hours I still don't feel like typing much so here are some pics of the progression to tell the story.















Had a few bugs stop by to visit just as I made the last pass---bastages. Between them and a couple of flaws that are going to need some extra attention I'll probably need to give it some spot clear after wetsanding.

Later,
Jeff
 

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Very nice!!!! Love the color and Lemans Stripes with Chasers.... :)
 

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Great job, Jeff!
We're not going to worry about a few bugs or flaws are we?
Oh, I forgot who was doing the paint, THANKS Jeff, you're great.
Was that 2 colors & clear in 16 hours?
 
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