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Not a waxer
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Discussion Starter #81
We're not going to worry about a few bugs or flaws are we?
On my car, no! There is a small fossilized fly in one of my hood stripes---looks kind of archaelogical :)

I had a moment of near panic when I started spraying. Right from the get go my new gun wouldn't maintain pressure/flow. I was getting a good spray for 2-3 seconds after pulling the trigger then it dropped off, petering out to almost nothing. Thought maybe the cap on the cup wasn't venting and was keeping material from flowing but that wasn't the case. Took it apart and couldn't find anything visible. Something in an internal air passage???:confused: Paint store was closed so I grabbed my old cheap but reliable Startingline primer/utility gun, changed over the regulator and put a 1.3 tip in it. Sprayed out the white just fine so I ran with it.

Put it all out in the sun to cook while I got the garage back in order yesterday afternoon. It sure is RED!



Have to do a respray on the white on one half of the scoop then clear it (had some red sneak thru the masking and managed to burn thru an edge of the flange trying to sand it out). I'll start wetsanding and working out flaws tonight.

Jeff
 

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Ohio C-car Club
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I had a moment of near panic when I started spraying. Right from the get go my new gun wouldn't maintain pressure/flow. I was getting a good spray for 2-3 seconds after pulling the trigger then it dropped off, petering out to almost nothing. Thought maybe the cap on the cup wasn't venting and was keeping material from flowing but that wasn't the case. Took it apart and couldn't find anything visible. Something in an internal air passage???:confused: Paint store was closed so I grabbed my old cheap but reliable Startingline primer/utility gun, changed over the regulator and put a 1.3 tip in it. Sprayed out the white just fine so I ran with it.
Jeff:

Sorry the new guns gave you a fit. Hopefully the paint store will take them back or replace them if they truly are messed up.

My guess is you didn't have the air pressure turned up high enough going to the gun/regulator. My HVLP guns say 22 psi to the regulator to get 10 psi at the cap, but honestly when I have the air pressure set at this level, the paint gun does exactly as you describe and the paint doesn't atomize correctly. If I turn up the air pressure to about 40 psi at the regulator it works much better. I still get the intial air surge then it evens out.

Can't wait to see the results after some wet sanding and buffing!

Scott
 

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Not a waxer
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Discussion Starter #83
Steve stopped by to see it for the first time since paint this evening. He didn't find the flaws and I sure wasn't going to point them out to him ;) I've cut it with 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 and buffed using Wizard's products; Turbo Cut compound followed by their Finish Compound then finished up with Shine Master polish.





My wife is completely baffled by the whole process. It was shiny and red when it arrived (gelcoat) then I blocked it and made it dull red. Next it was gray then became dull red again (basecoat) then shiny red again after clear. She thought that was the end until I began wetsanding and turned it all dull again! Finally after cut and buff it's all shiny red again. She just laughs, shakes her head and says "It was red and shiny when you started, why didn't you just leave it alone? ---You guys are crazy!" You know, she might be right :w00t:

Before it all goes back together I plan to coat the underside with Duplicolor Bed Armor. Won't be long now!

Jeff
 

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Ohio C-car Club
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Wow Jeff! Since we traded PM's over the weekend you made great progress with the buffing. Must have gone easier then you were thinking. Now you got my debating again with myself to go get mine wet sanded and buffed out :confused1:
 

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Not a waxer
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Discussion Starter #85
Scott, I just but the bullet and adopted the "eat an elephant one bite at a time" mindset. It was miserable but better than major dental surgery.

Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Coolest Puzzle ever !
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wow

Great results

cant wait to see it all back together!!!

MK4
 

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This post went from 2-22-11 to 5-24-11.
God, I think I will quit dreaming about building another and just go back to watching TV.
Its a flipping shame that paint and body cost about 75% what the kit does.:w00t:
Awesome thread, and I know very helpful to many
Jeff... I wish I had your patience.
 

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Its a flipping shame that paint and body cost about 75% what the kit does.:w00t:
Awesome thread, and I know very helpful to many
Jeff... I wish I had your patience.
I did body work and paint with PPG products for $700 minus my gun and air tools turned out great.
 

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Senior Member
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Mark IV cars are a whole different ball of whacks Al....

Jeff's car looks just t!ts to me!!! :w00t:
 

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This post went from 2-22-11 to 5-24-11.
God, I think I will quit dreaming about building another and just go back to watching TV.
Its a flipping shame that paint and body cost about 75% what the kit does.:w00t:
Awesome thread, and I know very helpful to many
Jeff... I wish I had your patience.
If a kit is $20k that would make the paint an body work $15k. Dont see that cost. Mine was less than 25%.
 

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Not a waxer
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Discussion Starter #92
Surprised me to see this back at the top again!
Car is done and Steve has been enjoying it (well over 2,000 miles worth) since the last week of June.



Final assembly is detailed in the Mk4 build thread linked below.

Cheers,
Jeff

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Senior Member
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Jeff,
Thinking about this whole business of DYI paint jobs... Would it be better to do all the body work on the frame before you start the build? You wouldn't have to worry about crap getting all over the completed frame.
I'm thinking doors would be easier to work on, Hood area would be easier to work on.. heck you could get in the engine bay to work on fitiment.
Just thinking outside the box.:w00t:
With the body bolted to the frame.. things would be "fixed. The only thing I could see would be a problem with be exhaust cutouts.. no biggie.
Once you get the body filled, sanded,all flat and everything meets where it is suppose to... then yank the body off and start the fun part.
 

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Not a waxer
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Discussion Starter #94
Hey Al!
You are correct that fitting and shaping for the moveable panels has to be done on the chassis. As can be seen at the beginning of this thread I did much of the bodywork before ever putting the shell on the completed go cart; gelcoat blocking, seam prep, wheelwells, rolling the door tops, filling pinholes and the first round of high build primer. Yeah, even though you know it will clean up it's painful to make dust and get it on the spotless chassis and engine but in the end it's really not so bad. On both my Mk3 and this Mk4 I draped plastic in the engine bay and over the dash, etc. (I think you can see it in some of the photos). After the body comes off again a couple of hours with an air hose, shop vac, a bucket of water and a rag with some detail spray makes it all good again (shhh, don't tell anybody I use that stuff or it will blow my "not a waxer" persona :)) With that said though there is no reason that bodywork couldn't be the first thing done. Put the aluminum panels which recieve bulb seal in place and have at it! Our long time forum friend Weendoggy has done just that on a couple of builds. Fine tuning the pipe cutouts after paint isn't a big deal; I've done it.

You're getting closer to taking the leap again aren't ya' :)

Jeff
 

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More Pictures

Jeff

Great build. Are there any more pictures of this car finished? Would be nice to see the trunk with an actual license plate on it. Saw your post somewhere on the forum for the mk4 license light mod and I was curious how it turned out.

Luis

Surprised me to see this back at the top again!
Car is done and Steve has been enjoying it (well over 2,000 miles worth) since the last week of June.



Final assembly is detailed in the Mk4 build thread linked below.

Cheers,
Jeff

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Baghdad Bob
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866 Posts
body prep thread

Going thry
u your body prep thread I dont see and reference to yhe mold seams and their prep, did you just fill em with the rage gold.

my mk4 is # 7287, so maybe similar shape to yours.
 

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1,156 Posts
A 2nd question

Hey Jeff,

I seem to recall that you slotted the underbody holes to allow you to push/pull the body in & out for best fitment. How's the durability been on those slots? Any surface cracking or wear? Any other issues?


John
 

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Hopefully you get a notification for this question... do you have this thread saved off with pictures that are not so blured out? Its a photo bucket issue I’m sure... like zip it up and email it? Alot of great information detailing things and the photos are junk..
 
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