Greg, I was able to sort things out. It was a mix of M12-1 and M10-1 fittings on the ABS. To complicate matters, I am installing a hydroboost system from a '96 Mustang GT, so that includes a different master cylinder which uses 2xM12-1 fittings. I found everything I needed at AutoZone and will be bending and flaring lines over the New Year's break. Now to sort out the PS lines for the hydroboost system...
Hey Greg, I am in the process of a pretty major overhaul of my Mk 3.1 and the brakes are getting a lot of attention. In addition to upgrading to 13 inch rotors all around with new calipers, I am adding a 94-95 ABS setup. (My starting point is '94 spindles and rear end so I have the tone rings and appropriate mounting locations.) I got the ABS module and appropriate wires/connectors from MPS Salvage, but I don't have the flare nuts for the ABS module. Do you have the fitting sizes on the ABS module itself? If not, I will probably carry it to the parts store and try various fittings until I hit pay dirt. Thanks for all the pioneering work you did on this!
Hello, It was suggested I give you a holler. I am planning my Mk4 build. Plan is coyote engine, IRS, PS and AC. You are considered the master of the ABS install. Could you give me any advice on what system would be the best for my install. I would like to stay away from donor parts and would like to keep it as simple as possible. I have read your threads and it looks like the GT350 system is the way to go. Outside of the parts listed in your thread, is there anything else I would need? Also, do the speed sensors fit in the newer Mk4 kit? Sorry if my questions are elementary, I am a noob and trying to find my way. Thanks
I installed the ABS diagnostic light as you outlined (switch on dash). However, I forget the test sequence; power-up, wait for light to go off, then flip switch and count flashes?
The light does go off when I power-up, but I'm still trying to see if the ABS is what is making the "grinding" noise when I'm braking during right-hand turns. It has to be something to do with the PS/hydroboost/ABS interface.
Greg, does your ABS info/write-up instructions still exist in any format? Looking to do it on next build, also, and would will be able to do so without it. If it's available, maybe we could get a moderator to place it in the FAQ section?
Greg, been away from the car for awhile. Back at it and trying to art from scratch debugging the ABS. Light stays on.
One quick question re testing for codes... per the wiring diagram, do I connect the dk grn #1 and the org/wht #2 wires (diagnostic connector leads) to pull codes?
Been comparing my wiring to the diagram and all seems in order, but I can't get the light to blink. What do I connect to what to pull codes. I can't open the link in your write-up that discusses bench-testing.
Well, All is wired per diagram, except I have hooked up the diagnostic to a momentary switch. With ignition to "on" (car not running) I try to pull codes by keeping the switch on I do get light blinks but I cannot interpret them (light blinks at ~3 sec. intervals forever). Using a FFR dash light; maybe another type of light?
Not hooked-up right now, engine is out. Will get it all back together in a few weeks, but yiou'll recall that when I had it running it worked (start car, light comes on for a second or so, then went out; multiple times. Then, after spinning the back wheels (on jack stands), with front wheels on the ground, stationary, the light would stay on).
Just trying to trouble-shoot while there is room to work in the engine bay.
I'll recheck ALL related wiring and connections. and bench test the unit again before I reinstall it.
As you may recall, I have an issue with the ABS light staying on. Initially, with both front and rear wheels on the ground (not rolling), the light would go out after a second or so at each start, which was good.
Subsequently, with the front wheels on the ground and the rear up on jack stands I started it several times and spun the rear wheels; after that, I noticed that the light stayed on.
Will have a chance to address this in the coming weeks when I get the body off and was wondering if I really have an issue; would the rears turning and the fronts stationary cause a fault to show?
Started the engine multiple times (5 or six), relishing in the fact that the ABS light came on for a second or two then went off as its supposed to; this was before I started toying around with the clutch an spun the wheels. As I said earlier, I cannot be certain that the light started staying on the first time I spun the wheels; just noticed it about that time. I may be pulling the engine for the clutch issue, so that will give me good access to test the unit and wiring.
One click from the module when turned to "on"; dash light stays on. I'm sure its wired correctly; will chase down all connections. I do know that light came on then shut off numerous times when starting engine; may have lost track (not noticed) during several starts, and only noticed it after I spun the wheels in reverse. Will keep you updated when I have something to report.
Apart from some clutch issues, I'm on the winning side; car starts, almost everything works; keep blowing the wiper fuse when I switch from high to low, I'll work that out.
For quite a few starts the ABS indicator light came on temporarily then went out as it should. Then, after starting it with gear in reverse (car is on jack stands) trying to figure out my clutch issues (rear wheels turning), I noticed that the light stayed on.
Tried the diagnostic process: shut car off, jumpered the diagnostic connector, turned ignition to on and what I get is one light blink every 4 seconds, forever. Any clues?
Greg. I've started bleeding brakes: Forte's hydroboost and the ABS. Thought I had it done, but ended-up with a real soft pedal (all the way to the floor) but saw some movement of the e-brake springs when trying the e-brake. After pedaling a few strokes, ound 1 leak, fixed it. Going to start round two. Any tricks? I'm using a had-held vacuum pump. The ABS unit as-installed on one of the X-members is at a ~30* tilt; is this a problem air-wise?