Factory Five Racing Forum banner
41 - 60 of 105 Posts
I think I recall Indy waiting on his rims at the same time as me, they would be F5R's in that case. Oddly enough if you look closely they have a bit of purple in them.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
The wheels are from FFR. I like them although as AUME2010 mentions delivery time was looooong. Some FFR wheel owners have commented that the PC on their lug nut covers does not match the wheel center...that is not the case with this set.
When considering Halibrand style wheels don't forget Richard Oben at NORTH RACECARS. Quality product, quick delivery and a wealth of knowledge.

Jeff
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Why the issue with the rear QJ bolts? I didnt have much problem, I put the nuts to the inside. It seems like a simple and easy solution.
While the earlier cars are no picnic the Mk4 is worse. I did put the nuts to the inside for this mockup. The reconfiguration of the tail seems to have raised the tank or dropped the square tube, maybe some of both, making it even more difficult to finagle the fasteners into place. Fingers the size of an average 4 year old's would be helpful.

Jeff
 
Jeff, I don't see your front splash shields in place. I hope you fit them prior to trimming the side pipe opening, as they can make a big difference..

It does have a nice butt! :001_tongue:
 
AC, don't want to answer for Jeff, but the splash guards were installed along with the windshield, Quick Jack bolts and the side pipes were on and off many times to get the opening correct.
The pictures were taken before any body shaping started.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
To use that famous Yogi Berra quote: "Its deja vu' all over again".

Like the Mk3, after scribing and trimming the passenger side door came into line pretty well. By manipulating the body and hinges all four corners are reasonably close. Some filling will be required at the door top to cowl intersection.

Image


The driver's side is like a Mk3 also, meaning that the door fits the body like a saddle on a hog! After adjusting to optimize the door to body interface at the top it leaves the door in at the lower front and out at the lower rear. By pulling the rear rocker panel outward it is possible to make the body meet the door at the rear but that still leaves the door sucked in at the front.

Image


Image


I think just about anyone who has done a Mk3 has seen this and I'm not the first to see it carry over to the Mk4. It's funny; along the vertical front seam the areas needing filler actually cross over from the body at the upper curve to the door at the lower. I'll post some pics afterwards.

I haven't cut the trunk lid to size yet but can tell that the body's lower valance will have to be pulled in to meet it at the bottom by shortening the quick jack sleeves. Looks like it might take some filler on the body to match the lid where it rolls over and down.

I was hoping for better but am not real surprised (especially after the heads up from Kevin and AUME) or concerned. It's just bodywork and shaping to some of the same problem areas we saw on Mk3's. I'll add updates after final fitting of the trunklid and hood (which looks pretty good so far).

Jeff
 
Instead of slapping on 1/4" of filler to the door, what do you think of splitting the seam on the door and spread the gap to bring it out flush with the body then fill the gap with epoxy and fg matting or something.
 
The trunk actually fits pretty good. I know the problem of which you speak. Where the curve on the trunk lid stick above the body. Believe it or not if you put the weatherstrip on and pull the trunk lid down with the lock it pulls into shape somewhat. Filling will be required on the bottom edge of the deck lid to bring it back out.
 
I found that by using fender shims at both the front and rear side body mounting bolts, I was able to get the bottom of the door lined up fairly good. Have you tried that yet?
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Bill, one of the plusses of the Mk4 over our Mk3s is no Frankenstein bolts on the sides and no shims to fumble with. The Mk4 rockers roll under the frame and attach to the 2X2 tubing from below. I cut slots in the underside and tapped bolts into the tubing to make it easy to secure after getting the body pushed/pulled into the ideal position. I have it in as far as possible at the front of the DS door and pulled out to flush at the rear.

Here's a shot showing the lower leading edge of the door where it meets the body on the left side. Please excuse my sorely lacking photographic abilities!

Image


It will take a maximum of 1/8" buildup at the lower corner and then run off to nothing as it goes rearward and upwards, about the same as my Mk3. Speaking of buildup I broke out a Sharpie to show you the general areas that will have to get Rage on the driver's side:

Image


Things are much better on the passenger's side:

Image


Trimmed and installed the trunklid. Fits well! I'll pull the valance in a bit by adjusting QJ spacers and trunk latch striker but as AUME noted it falls into place nicely when the seal is in place:

Image


Still need to trim the hood and do the scoop. A couple of weeks ago I got out the hood hinge parts and painted them. It wasn't until I went to assemble them the other evening that I realized I had duplicates of some parts and none of others! Talked to Patty at FFR and have parts coming but won't be able to get the hood fully mocked up until they do.

Probably start spreading mud on the doors tomorrow night...

Jeff
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
so it's ok to spread Rage over the primer?
You will actually get a nicer featheredge that way. I scratch it up a bit with 120-150 on a DA although I don't know that it is absolutely necessary.

Jeff
 
Wow Jeff, Yogi had it right! Of all the things they improved on the Mk 4's, the door molds was not one of them, too bad.

Looks like you are making great progress! Better than my night. Thought I had the correct terminal ends for my battery disconnect switch...and needless to say I can't drill out the hole any larger to fit over the terminal. Wasted an hour. Oh well, back to the parts store.

Scott
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Wow, I got a little behind on the updates. Last time I had just finished fitting doors and trunk lid. When I went to assemble the hinge to mount the hood I discovered that FFR had packed duplicates of the frame mounts but no arm plates. A phone call (well actually 3 phone calls) to Patty got the proper parts coming. Meanwhile I trimmed/fitted the hood and after lots of measuring cut the scoop hole:

Image


Image


There is an inner and outer layer bonded around the perimeter but not at the center. I mixed up some 3M HSRF and packed it in between the two at the opening:

Image


After it cured I cleaned it up with the DA then used Rage to smooth and round it over. After paint the scoop will be permanently attached with stainless button heads:

Image


Next it was time to move on to applying mud to the door to body intersections. Since I had knocked down the seam and rolled the door tops prior to the first round of Slick sand the passenger door was mostly a matter of evening up the transition to the cowl and front fender as well as fairing the roll into the front and rear cockpit:

Image


Continued...

Jeff
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
The driver's door is the one that was going to need the most attention. Just like I discovered with my Mk3 once you get through the first application of filler to start building it up it really isnt so bad. I lay masking tape onto the body all around the door opening and on into the jamb so that the Rage is only getting applied to the door. After mixing up a good sized batch I apply it to the lower door then while keeping one side of a long straightedge against the body screed it along the door to fill it to level. As soon as it begins to get firm use a utility knife and cut through the gap between the body and door, open it up and pull the tape off. You can trim the filler while it's not fully cured. You just continue to build it up by repeating the process, sanding and shaping between applications. This is after 4 applications and is ready for Slick Sand:

Image


After completing the filler work I began to install lights, etc. so that after paint it will just be a matter of putting them back into the already drilled and massaged openings. When I got to the decklid I was faced with that well known and frequently discussed Mk4 license plate issue! Some guys simply trim the plate to fit but Steve has reservations about that (I suspect he thinks he might be breaking enough laws and doesn't want to give the Bloomington Police yet another excuse to write him up!). With no modifications the plate hangs over the trunk handle like a Backdraft:

Image


I got looking at the light assembly, did some measuring and decided that if I could tuck an uncut plate up under the license lamp hood it would clear. The light bulb holder has a stud to hold the hood and lense that is not centered:

Image


By drilling out the rivets that attach it I could flip it over and move it up 3/8". This put the stud back into the same position in relation to the hood. I drilled the rivets out of the insulator card and moved it upwards 3/8" also:

Image


Next I cut a slot in the back of the lense which will allow the plate to slip up inside the lamp housing and reassembled the unit:

Image


Continued...

Jeff
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Finally I cut a length of aluminum stock and attached it to the existing mount then drilled holes which will hold the license plate about 1 1/8" higher:

Image


All done! An uncut standard size (12" by 6") license plate now tucks up behind the lamp housing and clears the handle:

Image


The car is now very nearly all mocked up:

Image


Image


Image


Since the pics the second roll bar has been installed. The hood hinge parts are all here now so it can be assembled and have the hood fitted. I still need to drill the wiper holes and do an initial mock up with the wheel boxes. After that it will come back apart for another gallon of SS then sand, sand, and sand some more before paint!

Cheers,
Jeff
 
41 - 60 of 105 Posts