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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I am installing the upper control arm. I don't see any mention of using washers but it looks like 4 are provided? Do i use them and where do they go?
 

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Junior Charter Member
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108 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I got the fuel tank all ready to go an spent 3 hrs... yes 3 hrs fitting the 3 link bracket on the rear end. The instructions say to bolt the allen head bolt in place where the weight was. I spent the majority of the time trying to make that happen. I then decided I would bolt the bracket in place and see if I could get the allen bolt to line up. It worked after the third try. Once I had the placement figured out I had to remove the bracket once more to grind some clearance for the breather hole.
360486
360487
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Well it looks like I am going to be looking for coil over shocks. I just got off the phone with Bilstein and they only received one of the shocks I sent.
 

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I got the front suspension together today. I’m still waiting on the coil over to come back from the shop. Once that happens I can bolt them in along with the steering rack. View attachment 360401
[email protected],
The build looks awesome so far! From your photo, I see the zerk fitting in the front upper ball joint but I don't see a view of the lower ball joint. On my MkII which I purchased as a partially completed kit, the lower ball joints just had untapped holes where I would have thought zerk fittings should be. Is yours the same way? I plan to drill and tap the holes for zerk fittings so that they can be lubed like the uppers. Hoping I'm just not misunderstanding something.
Cavemann
 

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Junior Charter Member
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108 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
[email protected],
The build looks awesome so far! From your photo, I see the zerk fitting in the front upper ball joint but I don't see a view of the lower ball joint. On my MkII which I purchased as a partially completed kit, the lower ball joints just had untapped holes where I would have thought zerk fittings should be. Is yours the same way? I plan to drill and tap the holes for zerk fittings so that they can be lubed like the uppers. Hoping I'm just not misunderstanding something.
Cavemann
Yes, you are correct they are factory style sealed ball joints. You should not have to tap them they will be fine until they wear out. :) I suppose tapping them wont hurt tho.
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Stupid question, Did you contact the shipper? You would think they could track the package.
What??? did you ship them individually, not in one box?
So long story short the package was mishandled during shipping and came open. At some point it was taped back up but only after one shock had already been lost.

Sadly, I checked the receipt to make sure the address was right but I neglected to check that they added the $300 insurance I requested. The value was set to N/A and defaults to $100.

As I told the clerk helping me.."We are here because on an inability to DELIVER a package, not because I didn't check my receipt to make sure you did your job."
 

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So long story short the package was mishandled during shipping and came open. At some point it was taped back up but only after one shock had already been lost.

Sadly, I checked the receipt to make sure the address was right but I neglected to check that they added the $300 insurance I requested. The value was set to N/A and defaults to $100.

As I told the clerk helping me.."We are here because on an inability to DELIVER a package, not because I didn't check my receipt to make sure you did your job."
The fact that we have to insure somthing we are shipping through a company that "specializes" in shipping has always frustrated me. Once it is in their hands it is their responsibility. Unfortunately it does not work that way.
Best of luck
 

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Junior Charter Member
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108 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
So here is where I am at.. I need a little guidance please. We put the rear end in this weekend. I don'have the correct spacers to mount the rear coilovers.
360924
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Looking good!
If you are using rear coil overs you can remove the big coil spring bracket from the frame.

I had a friend with a lathe make up spacers for my car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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FFCobra Craftsman
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24,300 Posts
I am sure you discovered this already but the axle needs to go over top of that forward brace tube for the 3 link. This jumped out at me because I did exactly the same thing back in about 2006.
 
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Not a waxer
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Vegasjack
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113 Posts
I too found and bought a MKll complete kit (5299K) . Not only found it, but it was in a garage only about 20 miles from me, Original buyer bought it in 2004 and never started the project. Everything was still in original boxes. I was able to complete the car within a year. (I'm retired). Original buyer actually bought a lot of upgrades. Dual roll bars, IRS, Street Performer Seats
which was upgrade at the time. Good luck in your build. I will be happy to answer any questions. Most my frustrations are still fresh in my mind. lol. Best advice is follow the not so clear MKll manual. It doesn't tell you alot, but does help with what goes on when. Trust me, you will be drilling out a lot of rivets.
Jack Lundquist, Las Vegas, NV
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I am sure you discovered this already but the axle needs to go over top of that forward brace tube for the 3 link. This jumped out at me because I did exactly the same thing back in about 2006.
Yes we discovered that ROFL. After we had a few things hooked up and it didn't line up. That picture was taken before we finished, Good eyes. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I too found and bought a MKll complete kit (5299K) . Not only found it, but it was in a garage only about 20 miles from me, Original buyer bought it in 2004 and never started the project. Everything was still in original boxes. I was able to complete the car within a year. (I'm retired). Original buyer actually bought a lot of upgrades. Dual roll bars, IRS, Street Performer Seats
which was upgrade at the time. Good luck in your build. I will be happy to answer any questions. Most my frustrations are still fresh in my mind. lol. Best advice is follow the not so clear MKll manual. It doesn't tell you alot, but does help with what goes on when. Trust me, you will be drilling out a lot of rivets.
Jack Lundquist, Las Vegas, NV
View attachment 360927 ,
Too cool, I cant believe how lucky I am to have picked up this kit. Nice color!
 

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108 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 ·
My "spacer rod" came in this week big thanks to Jeff for making it super easy to find. :)

I still need to make the spacers finish bolting up the suspension and rebuild the drum brakes.

My car is getting closer to being a roller so I decided it was time to get the wheels ready. As you can see in the picture they were supper dirty\cruddy .I cleaned them up and I’m chemically stripping them. I’ll then etch the surface paint the centers and give the rims and fins a machined look.

I'm also looking for some tires. I think I have decided on Cooper cobra tires 235/60 and 255/60

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