[rponfick]

I have always wet down the floor between each application of paint or clear coat and have never had an issue of moisture affecting the paint. I am always afraid of having overspray dust on the floor blowing up into the paint.

But, I'm always open for other ideas.

Ralph.

 

[JKleiner]

Re: wetting or not. I've heard both schools of thought, and there are valid points with both; helping with dust control vs. loosing control of humidity. Twenty some years ago an old painter/mentor pointed out that he was choosing reducers and additives based on temperature and humidity and if you then wet down the area you've changed the conditions that those decisions were based on. Made sense so I've sprayed over dry floors. Certainly you will clean the floor and give it a damp mopping but allow it to dry and give temp & humidity a chance to stabilize before spraying. Assuming you have time damp mop between applications.

On the subject of dust control in our home brewed spray booths---don't bring any in! By that I mean on yourself and even your hoses. Pick up some of the Tyvec type coveralls, use one for sealer then throw it away and begin with a fresh one for each new application of base and clear. All that overspray is settling on you (well your clothing actually) so take it out with you after you are done with an application and don't bring it back! Take your hose out between applications and wipe it down with cleaner or lacquer thinner.

In answer to your PM; yes to the "drop coat". I confess to having to check on the term. I was going to mention the practice to you but would have called it a mist or dust coat. Full solid colors don't really need it but it is definitely good practice when dealing with colors with a high metallic content like silvers and light silver/blues to even out coverage and avoid striping or mottling.

Finally, :thumbup: :yes: on your choices!

You're gonna' do great (and are making me want to put color on mine)!

Jeff

 

[Scalded Dog]

Wet the floor and keep it wet. I painted mine in the garage (converted to a home made paint booth) and wet my floor. Well I let it dry out somewhere around the 3rd or 4th coat of paint and had little specs of debris from the floor that blew up and got all over it. I had to let paint completely dry overnight and wet sand and repaint (topcoat with 2 more coats) the next day. I did a near perfect job on the body up to and including primer but the clear is where I screwed up. Lots of orange peel and some drips.......days of wet sanding and buffing and I have a pretty decent paint job......would I do it again.....?????

Here's what I used to move a lot of air:

The fan is a 36" plus an old furnace fan and it kept most of the over spray down. I mounted it in a piece of plywood 4'x10' and sealed all the cracks with heavy plastic. I had furnace filters in the windows, 3M painters film on the walls and wet floors.

My paint job ultimately turned out well, but not "show quality" well. The color is from a 2008 Buick Enclave "carbon black metallic". I'm thinking this winter I may have a professional painter hit her with 2-3 more coats of clear.

Hope this helps,
Russ

 

[ShelbaToast]

I definitely support the decision to paint the inside wheel wells. We didn't do it on mine and it turned out to be more visible than you might suspect. Recently coated the wells with an under-body spray though. Glad you're going through with it Scott!

 

[Buddy]

Good luck, Scott! I'm about 3 weeks behind you. Do you mind posting the quantities when you finish - how much did you buy, and how much did you use?

sealer
stripe color
base coat
clear coat

Thanks. Looking forward to the pics!

Buddy

 

[Riptide Motorsport]

Scott, if your spraying a metallic you need to prep sand to 600, also you cannot wet sand a mettalic then clear, the metalllic will sand out. You have to clear directly over a finished (unsanded ) metallic.

 

[STL-Scott]

Scott, if your spraying a metallic you need to prep sand to 600, also you cannot wet sand a mettalic then clear, the metalllic will sand out. You have to clear directly over a finished (unsanded ) metallic.

Steven,

Thanks for the tips. So, should I prep my Slick Sand primer up to 600, then shoot the epoxy over that, or spray the epoxy let it cure and sand that to 600?

Scott

 

[STL-Scott]

Good luck, Scott! I'm about 3 weeks behind you. Do you mind posting the quantities when you finish - how much did you buy, and how much did you use?

sealer = 1 gal of 2k epoxy primer
stripe color = 1 quart
base coat = 1 gallon
clear coat = 1 gallon

Thanks. Looking forward to the pics!

Buddy

What I bought is listed above. Quanties shown are unreduced. I also got a gallon + 1 quart of reducer, and a pint of epoxy hardner, and whatever was required for the clear coat activator.

I don't expect to use all of the above, but rather be safe than short (and sorry).

Scott

 

[STL-Scott]

Spent some time the past few days getting the garage ready for painting. The new compressor is wired up, and plumbed to the filter/regulator via a 25' hose to allow the air to cool and condensation to be captured.

Got the garage wrapped in plastic, and rigged a board across my door rails to hang all of the panels from.

And if you squint hard enough...you might just make out the paint colors I am using!

The plan right now is maybe spray the 2k epoxy Friday morning. I am working a later shift that day to cover some evening construction work at the R&D center. We'll see how the epoxy looks, maybe move onto paint, or do some more detailed block sanding next week. I have our Cub Scout Pack Spring Campout Saturday afternoon~Sunday...which basically eats up this weekend.

As of now there is nothing planned for the weekend of the 22nd, which is when I would like to finish the painting/clear coat.

 

[mydream]

All right Scott!!
Love the color choice, i'm just not what the 3rd one is for... I need to go back to previous post eh?
T

 

[Chitowncobra]

Damn that black paint job is awesome. Black is just so sexy w/ a little chrome and looks just awesome.

 

[Riptide Motorsport]

Hey Scott:

You need to solid mount ( not to the car) your door,trunk and hood panels. They will sway and blow in the wind when you hit them with the spray gun. You will have no control to lay the paint down. HTH Steven

 

[rich grsc]

Hey Scott:

You need to solid mount ( not to the car) your door,trunk and hood panels. They will sway and blow in the wind when you hit them with the spray gun. You will have no control to lay the paint down. HTH Steven

2X, the doors trunk and hood should be in the same position as they will be on the car.

 

[kelownacobra]

Hey Scott, I continue to be impressed by your tenacity!:clap: I noticed you are hanging all your panels. When mine was sprayed, we painted the underside of the hood and trunk the night before then masked them off. This allowed the painter to lay them flat on sawhorses(way less chance of a run). Also we could mask of the hood scoop and latch openings, etc. to stop overspray from side to side.

Jim.

 

[Don Payne]

Man Scott, I am excited to see the paint flow, but I have to say...you have got some serious cahones!

 

[rponfick]

Scott, you might want to consider one of those tennis ball sized filters that screw into the gun. They are cheap, and are a last line of defense in case some water condenses in the air hose. My paint store swears by them.

3X on painting the hood/trunk panels flat, especially if you are using a metallic paint. Not sure about doors since they mount vertically.

Ralph.

 

[JKleiner]

Agree with Steven and Rich. Get the small body parts secured in their installed orientation (hood & trunklid horizontal, doors vertical lengthwise). Heavy metallics like silvers will be more prone to show a difference in the "grain" if they are not done in the same orientation a the adjacent body panel.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

[STL-Scott]

Ahhhh....you guys are killing me! Just when I thought I was about ready to paint...time to take a step back). I was thinking about getting some of those dolly stands that eastwood sells for doing the trunk & hood. I have plastic saw horses now that I used for the primer but it only allows me to do one item at a time.

Ron - I have a new tennis ball filter for use at the gun. The paint shop I got my stuff from also swear by them.

 

[Don Wright]

Good luck and have fun with it.

All the best, Don

 

[STL-Scott]

Well you gotta love Harbor Freight Tools (for their cheap tools!) I went there before work today and picked up three of the portable work stands for painting. $17.99 each (on sale to boot!)

Took care of one of my wife's honeydo projects (installed 2 wood shelves) so I can get some of my projects done without remorse!

It was very humid this morning so the conditions were N/G for painting. Now that I have the stands...I am ready to go! I still may spray the epoxy tomorrow morning.

BC/CC next week!

Thierry - that third color...think about something the TEAM would use for some identification STRIPES!