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My Drivers Foot Box Mod

10K views 22 replies 13 participants last post by  dv/dt 
#1 ·
Did my driver side foot box mod last night. Kind of a modified Feddersen approach.









First the existing fold is reversed and then the other to folds are made. The new folds extend from the same point at the top as the original bend down to the two lower corners. If done like this the front, top and rear attachment points will stay exactly as they were intended. All of the rivet holes and screws still lined up the same after the mod. Only a small amount had to be trimmed off the lower edge to clear the 4" frame tube.







The ruler shows approximately where the original position was.



If you have a larger engine you can check if this mod will work by running a string from the top bend point to the front lower corner (forward red line in the fifth picture). If the headers, etc. are forward of this line then the mod would work since the position of this portion of the wall is unchanged.

Cheers, Rod
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Tim, I'll make up a 90° filler piece that will go from the 4" tube over to the wall. The upright leg will follow the angle of the wall. That, and a bit of silicone, will seal it right up. I'll post a pic once I've made it up.

Forrest, thanks!

Cheers, Rod
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Naga, I don't know if this will work with a big block or Mod engine. Perhaps Sergio could do the check I describe and let us know if it would work on the Mods. FFR might be able to supply it with different bends depending on what engine you plan to use since that part (nor any others) does not change shape or attachments. All that would be left is a little trimming if you got this version and a template would be easy enough to make.

Thanks and cheers, Rod
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
A few reasons:

1. It would require a lot more work and fitting.

2. It would require $'s not only for the aluminium but also my time to run out and get it.

3. My feet are not that big.

4. This way there is a chance (won't know unless someone checks) that the BB and Mod guys could also do it.

5. Because I could.

Cheers, Rod
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Tim, here are the pics of the piece to fill the gap. I cut off the small extension on the floor panel. I won't final fit/drill it until all the other panels are riveted in place. Will also make a small piece to fill in the small remaining gap at the rear.





Cheers, Rod
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Chuck, that's nothing, changed the tranny on a buddy's MPV last year and we had about 5 feet of extensions to get the bolts at the top of the tranny. Took one of us to feed it up and the other to guide it onto the bolts. He couldn't believe I actually had all those extensions. Thanks!

Olivier, I know that for the Mark III they had to narrow down the foot box to make room for the Mod engines. I am not sure exactly where the Mark II panel went though but it was wider.

Cheers, Rod
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Sergio, thanks for the compliment! Man those mod engines are big.

CraigS, already planning to make my own including some pedal covers for the brake and clutch, thanks!

Linwood, seen that and it's a nice kit if your not into playing with metal yourself. I love a challenge and one of the points here was to make a zero cost mod. No new metal is required as even the small filler piece was made from the F-panel blank off plate. Also, ordering things from the US has proven to be a royal pain in the rear with everyone wanting to take a cut.

Cheers, Rod
 
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