Given 3 and potentially 4 broken bolts I'd be tempted to simply changing the pinion flange rather than fighting to remove them.

Jeff

 

Me too. Way too much torque going through there to mess w/ anything less than a perfect pinion flange.

 

Thank you Jeff and Craig for the recommendation. Have new flange w/seal and bolt on order.

Next question, if I had to pound the driveshaft into place during installation, how do I remove the driveshaft with broken bolts in the way? The driveshaft is a shortened donor, so should I cut it out?

Thanks, Nate

 

Hey Nate,
Have you tried disconnecting the coilovers or shocks to allow the rear end to hang lower. That might give you a little wiggle room to get the driveshaft out. The driveshaft bolts are pretty hard so I imagine drilling them wouldnt be much fun. You could pull the control arm bolts to let the rear move back and out of the trans. As for pounding the driveshaft into place, it sounds like its a little too long, maybe revisit the dimensions you used to have it shortened. The pinion flange nut isnt just a remove/replace affair since it generally crushes the crush collar when installed. Maybe you can get away with it but I would be cautious anyway. Hope this helps.

Mike

 

Thank you Mike!

Will disconnect the shocks/coilovers and control arms to remove the driveshaft once I remove the last stubborn bolt. Just tried 2x10 minutes of heat and 5 minutes of pounding on the bolt with no success--yet. I think I'm on 10 sessions of 10 minutes heat on that bolt. I remember a post saying its a long process and have patience.

Here are some photos of the 11" driveshaft and yoke into the T-5. Hope to diagnose the tightness issue once the shaft is removed.

Thanks, Nate

 

Not sure about previous versions, but my manual shows the driveshaft should be 10.625". If that's been constant, yours would be almost 1/2" too long.

 

Otto,

Appreciate the reply. I believe your specs are for a different model roadster. Mark III Roadsters using 1993 and earlier Ford engines with T-5 or TKO transmissions require an 11" driveshaft. Have attached the specs from my Mark III manual. Once I remove the driveshaft I can confirm the length.

Thanks, Nate

 

Your engagement looks OK in the trans, doesnt look like it was bottoming out at all so I would think the length is correct. Still not sure why you had trouble installing the driveshaft though. Keep at that bolt, you'll get it eventually. Keep us posted.

Mike

 

The amount of shaft visible looks just right to me. I have heard about that rubber plug in the trans but have not seen one. Does anyone have thoughts as to what would happen if it is pushed into the trans accidentally? Can it just stay there?

 

Removing the pinion nut will require you reset the pinion preload on the bearings. There is a spec in InchPounds for existing bearings. You want measurable drag on the rotating the pinion gear, like 18 inch pounds. That is without the ring gear installed. You have to take your time cause if you go over and the crush sleeve collapses any, then you have to start over with a new crush sleeve.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/201009-torque-wrench-pinion-preload.html

Do a search on it. lots out there

 

Well, the driveshaft is out (3 broken bolts and 1 cut/ground out, then slid back the rear end). I'm still unable to figure out why my driveshaft bottomed out during install, which was then pounded into place.

DS measures 11" inches (Mark III spec, with T5 and 302), yoke 4.5", yoke inside T5 3.5", leaving 1" exposed/rusty. I see rust inside the entire yoke spline. Could it be the rust inside and outside the yoke causing it to bind/bottom out during install (and driving)? Is it possible to get the yoke cleaned up or should I replace the yoke?

Thank you
Nate