Factory Five Racing Forum banner

201 - 220 of 354 Posts

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
2,649 Posts
Hey Paul,
Thanks so much for your superior technical approach to all of your amazing build techniques.
I continue to follow your build closely and appreciate your documentation with the text and photos.
Bob Mac
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #202 (Edited)
Gen 3 Coyote Engine Cover Plus

With the engine/trans installed in the chassis, working through all the details. It’s been good to bolt stuff in for the last time. At least I hope so. Shifter put back on the transmission. Driveshaft and driveshaft loop installed. Filled the engine oil with the oil drained out of the engine when received. Filled to the line on the dipstick, which surprised me. But found the oil capacity on the 2018 Mustang GT is 10 quarts versus the previous 8 quarts. So, makes sense. Filled the T-56 with 4 quarts of DEXRON-III per the Tremec instructions. Different than previous T-5 and TKO experience. Tremec recently released their own transmission fluid -- TREMEC HP-MTF High Performance Transmission Fluid – that is supposed to be good stuff and usable for all their transmission. But at $20+ per quart, stuck with the gallon jug of Valvoline DEXRON-III. $14 at Wallyworld. Works for me. Also installed two 4-gauge engine grounds. One from the battery chassis ground location to the block under one of the motor mount bolts. Another from under one of the starter bolts to the chassis. With those in place, and oil in the engine, put +12V on the starter solenoid and very briefly bumped the starter a couple times. Good news, it works. Turns the engine over. No grinding or clashing sounds.

The one thing I was anxious about was getting the Tilton HRB plumbed, bled and working. It’s done and I’m happy to report seems to be working exactly as it’s supposed to. Tilton makes multiple references in their instructions about not pushing the HRB beyond its rated throw (.70 inch) and to install a clutch pedal stop to make sure. I checked very carefully and found that with the clutch pedal hard against the back wall of the footbox, with my setup I'm 1/8 to 3/16-inch less than that. So, no point in adding an additional stop. With the pedal full down, the clutch is completely disengaged. I can easily spin the transmission output yoke with the trans in gear. I can feel it engaging and dragging as the pedal is slowly released and then full grab. Short of driving, I’m confident it’s working correctly. Hard to say about the effort. I went back and forth between #8674 with the Forte hydraulic slave setup and the exact clutch and then the new Tilton setup in the Coupe. I would say the Tilton setup is “maybe” a bit lighter. But it’s not night and day. Both work really well, so no complaints. I’m happy with how easy it was to set up and it’s quite a bit cheaper. Time will tell how it works in the real world and holds up.

This picture shows the now completed driver’s side foobox, including all the RF and Coyote wiring. Even though it's a lot in a small space, I think it turned out pretty well. For the HRB plumbing, I used a 24-inch PTFE-lined stainless hose with a 90-degree end out of the Wilwood 260-10373 13/16 inch MC. You can see the hose going across the top of the footbox, out the same hole as the rear brake line and rear harness, and then attaches to the hose out of the bell housing from the HRB. I tie-wrapped the bleed hose to the supply hose. To bleed, I’ll clip the tie-wraps and bleed from underneath. Very straightforward.


So today I played around with the Gen 3 engine cover and I think have decided how this is going to go. Most don’t care for the new cover. Outside of the Mustang, where it’s designed to fit into the available space, it does look a little “different.” The bigger issue is that with the added complexity of the Direct Injection (DI) in the Gen 3, Ford has clearly given up with the previously used coil covers. Now the only covering for the top of the heads is this wide, flat cover.

To recap, here’s the uncovered engine as it sits today:


Here with the stock unmodified cover added. Note this is for reference only. I’ve already determined it won’t fit under the Coupe cowl. The ends of the “wings” interfere.


My first idea was to cut down the mounts on the cover and bend down the wings to improve the appearance and also allow it to fit. I cut about 3/4-inch off the mounting bosses under the cover and pulled it down with some Gorilla tape just to see what it looked like. Looks a little better maybe, but the difference is pretty subtle. There are multiple places that it interferes underneath preventing it from being bent down any further. I didn’t bother to see if it cleared the cowl.



Not being happy with that minor mod, bit the bullet and cut the wings off. This is what I’ve had in my mind since the beginning. I just ran it through the band saw and still need to clean up and round it a bit. Would look a little more finished. But this is how it looks cut down.



Need to get used to this new look, but I think I like it. I definitely like it better than any of the other options. Assuming I go this way, will do some type of custom paint on the cover like on #8674, again matching the body color. Interested in feedback from others. But be kind. BTW, just for grins set the Gen 2 cover on the engine from #8674. It would have to be heavily modified to fit. Even then might not make it. But if it did, then it would look just like a .... Gen 2. Not going there. Too much work getting this Gen 3 on hand and installed. It's going to keep it's own identity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
You're really cooking along. Nice work!
That is going to be a really cool car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Looks good. IMHO, it needs to be a couple of inches wider to cover up more of the wiring. Any chance you can fabricate extensions out of aluminum or fiberglass to fasten to the cover? (Just thinking out loud). Or maybe just additional/separate "valve covers". Also, can you mount the coils backward to clean up the wiring? Here is a crazy idea, wrap the heads in shop towels and Saran wrap. Drape some felt over them. Soak the felt in fiberglass resin. Trim to fit. Paint to match.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,571 Posts
Not sure how intricate you want to get but I think it would be cool if you could use the front arrow shaped bars to work from. Make a v shape to work backwards from and go side rail to side rail covering the entire engine.
Think that would look really sharp.
Hope that description makes sense.

Build’s looking great as usual.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #206 (Edited)
Thanks everyone for your feedback and comments. In the other forum, several cited what Factory Five did with the Gen 3 Coyote powered Hot Rod they had at SEMA.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98390&d=1543598635

Don't know that I would do exactly the same thing (I'm not changing the intake for example) but definitely shows what could be done with some fabrication over the heads. Bottom line for me today is I don't have to decide now, and in fact am going to wait until everything else is in. Plus having have the body mounted so I can be really sure about what clearance I have. Speaking of that, this morning I got to worrying whether even the modified cover would fit. So set the cowl on the chassis and blocked it up as close as I could to where I expect it to sit. Actually kind of nice to see it that way. Gives a hint at what's ahead.


Then measured and took pics of the clearance. Did something similar when I had the engine mocked up. But not with the whole engine/trans package. Found there's no issue with the CAI clearing, which I was worried about before. The corners of the engine cover are 1/2-inch from the cowl on each side. Tight, but workable should I go that way. Gives me a reference to think about other possibilities.



Also spent a little time last night starting to install the PCM in the mounting I fabricated in front of the passenger side footbox. To be honest, it's closer to the headers than I expected. The similar location frequently used on the Roadster is 4-inches from the nearest edge of the PCM to the headers in the vicinity. Bunch of them have been built this way (including #8674) so don't think it's an issue. As I've said before, those things are made for the underhood environment. But can't do anything stupid either. Where I have it mounted on this build, the bottom edge is about half that distance to the closest header tube. I'm going to work on it some more and raise the PCM more if I can. Looked again at alternate locations and orientations. Just don't see anything, especially when combined with other decisions I've made regarding the wiring and component placing. Worst case is I may need to add a heat shield. But I'll wait until it's running and probably driving and take some heat measurements.
 

·
Senior Charter Member
Joined
·
2,970 Posts
Looks great! Nice build.

Marc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #209
Very lose sketch idea

John
Thanks for the input and the effort with the sketch. Interesting idea. Don't think I want to cover it up that much though. :001_smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Also upon further review I found the inlet on the oil pressure sender is a metric O-ring fitting and I was unable to find any kind of adapter to fit it. So took the bull by the horns and removed the oil filter/sender assembly from the engine (4 bolts and has an O-ring gasket, so easy) and tapped the hole to 3/8-inch NPT. No way I was going to drill and tap the hole with the piece still on the engine. Would have been nearly impossible to keep chips and such out of there. With the hole tapped, used the gauge package provided 3/8-inch NPT adapter, installed the Speedhut oil pressure sender, and it’s done. I’m leaving the oil control valve in place, even though it doesn’t do anything. Doesn’t hurt a thing and saves finding something to plug the hole. Tied the other unused lead out of the way.
I believe that you ment to say 1/4" NPT for the oil pressure sender. I followed your lead and also removed the piece from the engine before tapping for the 1/4" NPT FFR adapter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #211
I believe that you meant to say 1/4" NPT for the oil pressure sender. I followed your lead and also removed the piece from the engine before tapping for the 1/4" NPT FFR adapter.
You're right. Good catch. Made me go look, but absolutely used the 1/4-inch NPT tap. Fixed in the original post. Thanks. :smile2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #212 (Edited)
Gen 3 Coyote PCM, Details Details

This week of the build I’ve been jumping from one thing to the next, and seemingly not making a lot of progress. But in hindsight I guess (hopefully) I have. Focusing on trying to get everything in the engine compartment done. Completed the connection from the fuel regulator to the engine. But radiator hoses, heater hoses, A/C hoses, PS hoses, PCV hoses, and the last of the Coyote wiring still remain. To do it right, at least in my view, no one thing can be taken alone. Often they try to occupy the same space, which in some cases is limited. Also trying to do it as neat and orderly as possible of course.

The first thing was after getting the engine and headers installed, I started having second thoughts about the PCM location. Plain and simple, the headers were closer than I anticipated. After more sitting and staring, and comparing to where the PCM is mounted in #8674, decided to ask my contact at Ford about it. The response I got back wasn’t a surprise, but wasn’t what I wanted to hear. “Too close for comfort” was the official response. Including from some technical guys that were asked about it and shown pictures. I posted pictures earlier in the build thread, so won’t again. But basically it was mounted vertically in front of the passenger side footbox. With it up as high as it could go (limited by the cowl) the bottom edge of the PCM was less than 2 inches from the nearest header pipe. I could flip it over, with the wiring end down, and the PCM was probably an acceptable distance. But then the wire harness and connectors would be similarly close to the headers. Probably even more likely to be at risk. Played around with some ideas to make a heat shield, but finally concluded this orientation wasn’t going to work. I want to get this right the first time, and clearly the mounting I had before was a bad idea.

Short of tearing the engine harness apart, which I’ve said before I just don’t want to do, the large harness and connector coming off the engine to the PCM is the major factor determining the PCM location. So needed to figure out a new mounting in that same general area. The answer became pretty obvious that the PCM needed to be flat on top of the frame in front of the footbox. But it has to stay behind the front splash guards and also the gas strut that holds the cowl up when open. Turns out there’s just enough space in that location to mount it there. Means the heater and A/C hoses around the footbox will need to be re-routed a bit. But I can make it work. The guys at Ford liked my new location. It’s around 12 inches from the headers, much of the underside blocked by the frame, mounting, and footbox. And the heat sinks on the unit point up. Should like it there just fine. Actually further from the headers than the typical Roadster installation including #8674. This general area, with (obviously) the wiring routed and tied down when done:


So, designed and fabricated a mounting bracket from 3/16-inch thick aluminum. Actually, harvested from my #7750 Roadster build where the original owner thought the footboxes needed full 3/16-inch sheet floors. I removed and that material just keeps giving and giving. The mounting bracket is riveted to the frame, with 5/16-18 threads tapped into the bracket and frame on one side and the bracket and a second layer of 3/16-inch thick aluminum on the other side. Added some high-temp silicone rubber sheet pads under the PCM mounting ears, and I think it’s all set. It would be real easy to add a heat shield under the PCM. But unless it turns out to be a problem (I doubt it) thinking it's more important for it to have free airspace. So won't for now.

Installed bracket looks like this:


With the PCM attached looks like this:


The heater control valve doesn’t move, but the hoses from the inside unit will need to come out from the side instead of the top. The A/C hoses from the inside unit will also need to be slightly re-routed, including replacing that #10 hose connection (top one LH side) from a 90-degree fitting to a 45-degree fitting. It’s on the way. I’m also in the process of re-wrapping that large cable from the engine. Just the visible part from the top corner of the head to the PCM using convolute and harness wrap like all the other wiring. That should clean things up a bit. I’m planning to add extensions to the engine cover to hide more of what’s visible from there back.

With that finally done, now to finalize the other two connections to the PCM. The leg from the PDB I had already reworked and it’s fine. The third connection is for the O2 sensors. Interesting. The Gen 1 Coyote had the O2 wires built into the main control pack harness. The Gen 2 Coyote Ford moved them to the stock engine harness. For the Gen 3 they’re back off the engine harness and now have their own dedicated harness connection to the PCM. With a couple challenges. The harness has four O2 sensor connections, duplicating the OE setup with upstream UEGO connectors in the exhaust collectors (the ones we use) and a second set of downstream connectors that are after the cats which we don’t typically install. A call to Ford early in the game said downstream connectors aren’t active in the crate motor program so clip the legs off or tie out of the way. Upon further review now that the PCM is located, found the required connections for the two upstream sensors aren’t remotely close to the right configuration or length. The RH side is way too long, the LH is way too short, all on the end of large single leg. Not very usable IMO. If you want to see what the supplied harness looks like, it’s on page 10 of the Gen 3 control pack instructions. https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FORDINSTSHTM-6017-M50B.PDF

So, to make it a clean sweep, since I’ve re-worked all the other harnesses, stripped off all the harness wrap and convolute. There’s only one wire (power) that’s common to all the connections. The rest are discrete right to the PCM connector. So, clipped off the downstream wires at the connector and they’re both gone. Then, shortened the RH upstream side and while I was at it lengthened the LH upstream side. Note I could have used a standard 24-inch extension for the LH side and it would have worked fine. But figured since I had it all apart anyway, just hard wire the added length and be done with it. Then joined the common power wires and wrapped it back up. Now looks like this. Just a little different.


I measured and ordered the PS hoses and connectors I need from Breeze. Should be here any day. Ordered and received a Mastercool 71550 A/C Hose Crimper. It’s the one recommended in the Factory Five instructions if you want to make the A/C hoses yourself. I do. Interesting tool and will be a new experience. Waiting for a few other parts to arrive early next week and should have everything I need to complete all the connections in the engine compartment.

Free unsolicited editorial comment: This all sounds a little complicated, and maybe it is. But if you’re experienced with stuff like this, probably you are completing in less time than I’m spending doing these updates. :p If you’re not experienced, probably it seems a little intimidating. Maybe especially the Coyote part. But between the Gen 3 Coupe and the Gen 3 Coyote, much of this is pretty new. I’m learning myself on some of this as I go. As the saying goes, just take it one bite at a time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #213 (Edited)
Power Steering, Heat, A/C

Still plowing ahead. Since last update, jumping around again with power steering, heat, A/C, radiator connections, etc. Lots of dependencies (mainly for space) so need to keep everything in mind. Received the SS flex and fittings from Breeze to hook up the power steering. Had that basically done the day the package arrived. The Aeroquip hose and fittings he provides are top notch and assembly easily. I also used the Breeze -6AN rack fittings with the rubber O-rings. First time I’ve used those. Worked well and did my best not to over-tighten the O-ring seal. Decided to install a PS cooler and used the same Derale 13310 piece like I’ve done before. Maybe not needed for a street driver. But easy to do now and certainly doesn’t hurt anything. Already has the -6AN fittings. So, two more connectors and it’s done. After looking at multiple locations, centered the cooler on the back wall of the radiator tunnel where it will get bolted when that piece is installed. Worked well and gave nice easy routings for the lines. Used a couple Earl's Performance 167207ERL clamps.


With the lines installed, filled with Honda PS fluid that I’ve used before and like, took the belt off the pump, and spun it up with a drill motor like the KRC instructions describe. Quickly burped and the pump was working. Had my number one shop assistant (wife) turn the wheel back and forth as I was running the pump, and all is working properly. No leaks so far.

Next up it was finally time to dive into the heater and A/C hoses. But first quickly realized that before mounting the evaporator in the passenger side footbox for the last time, best to first install the carpet in the footbox. It’s tight in there and would be difficult if not impossible to install the carpet with the evaporator in place. With that decision, decided to go ahead and do both passenger and driver side footboxes. Rest of the carpet is a breeze after getting those pieces in. Used the DAP outdoor carpet adhesive I’ve used before. Works extremely well. But the smell is powerful. Needs to be used in a ventilated area with the gas heater turned off. Which I did. Then it takes a while to air out once installed. But I like it because it grabs but still allows repositioning. And the final product isn’t ever going to come off. Did all the carpet pieces in both footboxes except the floor pieces, which will be an easy add when doing the rest. The inner walls on both sides are interesting since the shapes are quite irregular. But the pieces fit with very minor trimming. Based on their complexity, don’t think I’d try those two pieces with regular contact cement or spray. Would be really easy to get them off a little and then not fit very well. For the driver’s side, I added a heel pad on the side of the footbox next to the accelerator pedal. I’ve done that on previous builds, and not only does it prevent wear to the carpet, makes the accelerator easier to operate without your shoe dragging on the carpet. The pad is a “small” size from Heel Pad Warehouse (talk about a niche market) glued and stitched to the carpet after giving the carpet a bit of a haircut in that area. This pic shows the final driver side footbox less the carpet on the floor. Thinking about also putting some carpet around the frame members along the bottom. But we’ll see what it looks like when finished.


With that done, hung the evaporator for hopefully the last time. First up were the heater hose connections from the evaporator to the bulkhead fittings. Easy enough. Next up were the A/C hoses from the evaporator to the bulkhead fittings. Here it gets a little tougher. Couple of other build threads noted this as well. One eliminating the bulkhead fitting completely. The final hoses are short, stiff, a little hard to get into place, and length is very critical. What I learned from other build threads is the hoses “grow” slightly in length when crimped, making them hard if not impossible to install if not considered. The A/C kit came with a bunch of extra fittings and plenty of hose. So, I practiced making one with spare parts, measuring before and after. What I found was the hoses grow a little less than 1/8-inch. Closer to .1000 inch. Taking that into account, made up the two hoses. Happy to say both are in and installed. As expected, they’re stiff to put in, and easy to cut an O-ring if you’re not careful. With that fixed, have them in and tightened. Hopefully don’t leak and I won’t have to touch them again. I’ll find that out later when the system is charged. Just a side note FWIW: The three brackets and small screws provided to mount the evaporator in the footbox seem a little wimpy at first. But with the four hoses attached on the back, it's a lot more stable. I'm confident it's not going anywhere. The kit comes with insulation that goes over the hoses and valve block in this area. I’m assuming to prevent condensation and dripping into the footbox. But I’ll wait until the system is charged and tested to install. Just in case... Looks like this now:


Made up all the other hoses, and now have them all done except for the ends that attach at the condenser in front of the radiator. I’ll get the final length and crimp those on when the radiator is mounted. I did have to move the drier/trinary switch slightly from where the Factory Five instructions showed because of where I mounted the Coyote PCM. But works out fine here:


Speaking of making the A/C hoses, mentioned before that I picked up the Mastercool 71550 A/C hose crimper referenced in the Factory Five instructions. It’s very simple to use and a nice quality tool. Highly recommended.



One last comment about the A/C installation at this point. The Factory Five instructions show cutting off the leads to the connector on the A/C pump and hard wiring the harness to them. Not real excited about doing that for a couple reasons. Checked with my friends at Ford and learned a Motorcraft WPT-984 connector mates to the CR33-19497-BA / DKS-17DS compressor that comes with the Coupe heat-A/C kit. Used on 05-14 Mustang 5.0 V8 BTW. Ended up getting the connector on Amazon, but they're widely available. In this case, listed by the seller as a subwoofer speaker connector, so obviously used elsewhere. But as long as it says Motorcraft WPT-984, fits perfectly.


Haven’t started the heat-A/C wiring yet. Will do that when I move into the cockpit and start wiring there. I’ve started but haven’t completed the radiator and hose installations. I’ll save that for the next update. Getting close to having everything in the engine compartment hooked up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #214 (Edited)
Radiator and Plumbing

Quiet Christmas Day here. Family members all live out of town and we’ve visited recently. So just the two of us here. Good time for an update I guess. Better than checking my 401K balance. :( It’s been a pretty good week of getting a bunch of stuff out of the basement and permanently installed. Radiator tunnel sheet metal is attached. Radiator and expansion tank installed with all hoses hooked up except the heater hoses to the control valve. Will do that after the wiring is done. A/C hoses all done and hooked up. PCV hoses done. Control pack wiring mostly done including O2 sensor wires. Still a few more details to wrap up although I’ll probably never stop messing with the wiring and hoses trying to make it all as orderly as possible. My planned mod (at least right now) for the engine cover is it will have extensions that cover about half the heads. So, a lot will be covered from what’s visible now. Anyway, looks like this right now:


Now a few more details. This is the radiator tunnel. Kit supplied cooling fan with Breeze shroud. The Boig cool tubes fit perfectly and make that almost impossible lower radiator hose connection work OK. You can see here I’m using Gates SB PowerGrip heat shrink hose clamps. Have them most everywhere including the heater hoses. First time I’ve used them and I’m pleased with how they install. All the reviews say they grip and hold as well or better than typical metal hose clamps. Plus trying to make things as sanitary as possible. Of course the downside is they’re one-time use and have to be cut off. Hopefully that won’t be necessary very often. One hint: Huge variation in price for these things. Found them for about one third the Amazon price, which is a surprise. Google is your friend. I also used Oetiker ear clamps for most of the smaller hoses, a couple visible in the engine compartment. Again, they’re sanitary and work well. Also one-time use though obviously. Another detail visible in this picture is I moved the radiator as far to the left as it would go. Helped to get the lower radiator hose to hook up, plus gave room on the right side for the lower A/C connection to the condenser. Also visible is the small upper radiator hose connection back to the expansion tank. The petcock is removed and replaced with a Gardner-Westcott J9033 right angle fitting, then through the Ford supplied hose with a one-way valve. I did have to extend the hose to reach this far. Did cut a hole in the sheet metal and pointed it down. Would have been easier to go around the end. But I checked and that would have interfered with the cowl.


Closer picture of the upper radiator hose connection and upper and lower A/C connections.


The Moroso expansion tank installed and plumbed. The upper radiator hose that came with the control pack worked perfectly to go around the tank and then attach to the upper Boig cool tube. No trimming. Like it was made for it. Also visible here is the JLT oil separator installed in the PCV circuit, same as I did on #8674. The is a pretty common add with the Mustang performance crowd. My experience with #8674 is that it doesn’t collect a lot of oil, which is good, but still chose to use it.


Last picture, I mentioned before I picked up a honeycomb MAF airflow straightener from Treadstone Performance Engineering when I ordered the other CAI components from them. They highly recommended it to improve the stability of the signal from the sensor. Did some further research and found many other comments that were similar. Figured it can’t hurt anything. Was going to wait, but decided just to drop it in. With a little careful sanding on the disk sander, it slid right into the neck of the pipe. I put a light coat of JB Weld around the opening before sliding it in, and it’s not going anywhere. BTW, the Treadstone Performance Engineering 90 degree silicone hose coupler, MAF adapter pipe, and air cleaner are very nice parts. I’m impressed. These were recently added to the Factory Five instructions as another option for the Coyote CAI. Especially like that the adapter pipe is beaded on both ends. When clamped (I used T-clamps) it should never separate like the event I had with #8674. The Spectre parts, which Factory Five also lists, used in #8674 didn’t fit well in the Coupe. These fit perfectly. Also can see the connection I added for the left side PCV hose. JLT has those.


I’ve also been doing a lot of research plus taking things apart a little figuring out the vacuum hookup on the Gen 3 intake, along with the CMCV plumbing. This is an often discussed (and confusing) subject on the Gen 2 Coyote. Pretty sure I have it sorted out. I’m waiting for one part to arrive. Then will explain how I see it’s working with the Gen 3 and how I hooked it up. Good news, it’s simpler than before. Will post hopefully in the next couple days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #215 (Edited)
Gen 3 Coyote CMCV Plumbing

Ford added Charge Motion Control Valves (CMCV) to the Gen 2 Coyote when it was released in 2015. Also sometimes referred to as Intake Manifold Runner Controls (IMRC), which were used on some versions of the previous mod motors. But apparently this time around they are serving a different purpose, so technically not the same thing. According to Ford literature “…charge motion control valves… partially close off port flow at lower engine speeds. This increases the air charge tumble and swirl for improved air-fuel mixing, resulting in better fuel economy, idle stability, and lower emissions.”

It was common in former times to lock these out. Also common today with the Coyote by the performance crowd. But if you do, you’ll need a custom tune otherwise the PCM will throw trouble codes. I’m fine with leaving them, as I did on the Gen 2 Coyote in #8674. But out of the crate the vacuum required is not plumbed. There have been several threads and lots of posts about this, including from me. It was relatively simple to do, but still caused lots of discussion. Ford didn’t help by changing the plumbing slightly in later versions of the Gen 2. There’s also been some discussion about whether the CMCV function is even active in the special crate motor PCM tune. What I can say is (1) if you don’t plumb them you will get trouble codes (personal experience) and (2) when I reviewed the log files while working with Lund Racing on the custom tune in #8674, I could clearly see they were being commanded. I can’t confirm whether this was from the original tune or from Lund’s custom tune. But regardless they were in use. For whatever reason, which I don’t understand to this day, neither Factory Five or Ford Performance address the CMCV function in their instructions.

So with this as background, now the Gen 3 Coyote in my Coupe build. The Gen 3 Coyote has a brand new intake manifold. Side note: It apparently is a nice performance upgrade. Many are fitting the 2018 Gen 3 intake onto previous generation Coyotes with good results. The Gen 3 does still have the CMCV function. But the plumbing is changed. Perhaps because of the Direct Injection (DI) on the Gen 3 Coyote which takes up real estate under the intake that used to be open, there are no longer any vacuum or vent hoses from the back of the intake. Everything is on the front. Additionally, the Gen 3 vents the vacuum motors to atmosphere, like later versions of the Gen 2. There’s no vent tube to the intake like on early Gen 2’s, including mine in #8674.

So let’s get down to it. Here’s the intake area on my Gen 3 Coyote, with the various connections annotated and explained. I’ll cover more than the CMCV and vacuum required, just for information and clarity:


A = Heater hose connections
B = Upper radiator hose connection
C = Lower radiator hose connection
D and E = Connections to coolant expansion tank. Note: Capped if using Factory Five instructed T-filler and overflow tank.
F = Vacuum connection for CMCV function. This replaces the similar connection that was on the back of the Gen 2 Coyote.
G = Right side PCV connection.
H = Main vacuum port. This connects to a manifold setup in the Mustang (not included with the crate motor) which supplies vacuum to the CMCV plus the power brakes.
I = Vacuum port for evaporative emissions canister purge valve. The 2018 intake no longer has the purge valve as part of the assembly like before. It’s separate and not included with the crate motor. The only thing left is the vacuum connection. More on this later.

At the back of the intake, two things. At the top of the picture is where the system vents. To atmosphere like later generation Gen 2’s. At the bottom of the picture is the vacuum source. It's connected to item F in the previous picture. Based on the way it acted when I was testing, I suspect there’s an internal reservoir like the Gen 2’s. But I don’t have a source that confirms. Regardless, it’s a direct connection.


So, armed with that information, the vacuum connection to activate the CMCV function on the Gen 3 Coyote appears to be as simple as making a single connection between one of the two vacuum sources at the front of the intake and the vacuum connection for the CMCV. I chose to use the smaller vacuum connection, which is used for the purge valve in a stock setup as already mentioned. But since there’s no purge valve here, and I had a connector that already fit, I used that one and capped the larger vacuum source. Note I removed the throttle body and confirmed both vacuum sources are open into the intake. So for this purpose I believe they are interchangeable.

The other consideration is the vacuum signal for the fuel regulator. Both the Ford Performance and Factory Five instructions show using a fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum signal reference. Some builds use the GM style regulator back by the fuel tank, which is fixed and doesn’t have provision for a vacuum reference signal. Apparently it works fine. But, on a side note, the Ford Performance instructions for the Gen 3 Coyote say to set the fuel regulator at 65 PSI. Clearly more than the 55 PSI for the previous versions, and more than the fixed 58 PSI of the GM style regulator. Additionally, some custom tuners will tell you to remove the vacuum reference line, plug it, and let the regulator vent to atmosphere. Lund Racing told me that for #8674 and I’ve heard the same from at least one other tuner. Not sure about any of that. For my build with the Gen 3 I’m using a typical Aeromotive regulator, will set it for 65 PSI as instructed, and will plumb the vacuum line. If the vacuum reference signal isn't required in the future, easy to remove. So this means a “T” or “Y” connection in the vacuum line.

So I came up with this combination of parts to connect everything, mostly with parts I already had on hand. It’s not elegant, but it should do the job.


Installed, looks like this. As you can see, I capped the larger vacuum connection as mentioned before. Also all the other connections (heater hoses, PCV, radiator, etc.) are now completed.


That’s it! As they say on one of the car shows, “Job done.” Hopefully... Yesterday I filled the system with 50/50 Prestone. Put in just under 4 gallons. I’ll check it and top off if needed once it’s run. Running out of things to do with the Coyote installation. Digging deep into wiring in the cockpit now. First start is getting closer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #216 (Edited)
Cockpit Wiring Update

Around Christmas and New Year activities, a few bowl games, etc. have been plugging away on cockpit wiring. It’s slow going because I’m working hard to keep everything as compact as possible, and away from required routings for A/C and heat ducts. Plus I tend to test things as I go. I wasn’t sure I would have to, but ended up removing the two rear harness connectors and hard wiring those. Took some unneeded length out plus the bulk of the connectors. Also removed the connector for the sender branch. Will direct wire those as well. It all adds up. Adjusted the headlight switch branch so it lands where it’s supposed to on the dash without a lot of extra. I’m temporarily using the kit supplied manual ignition switch. Decided to wire the Digital Guard Dog keyless ignition setup later after first start. I’m confident it will be OK. But just taking that out of the equation for now. All the wiring connections are crimped, very light touch of solder, and adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving. Same as I’ve done on previous builds. Not saying that's the only way to do it. Just my preference.

Wired up and successfully tested so far: All the exterior lights including backup lights, high and low beam headlights, brake lights, etc. Don’t have the switches in for the hazards or turn signals yet. But with jumpers I can make them work. The T56 reverse lockout module is working. At rest it’s got the reverse solenoid on like it’s supposed to. So slides right into reverse. I’ll be checking to make sure it switches off in motion based on the signal from the speed sensor. But can’t do that yet. Fuel pump and radiator cooling fan work. I’m saving wiring for accessories such as the A/C and heat, heated seats, wipers, washers, fog lights, and aux ports until after first start and when I start wiring the switch panel. But I've probed all the leads and they all have +12V when they're supposed to. No smoke yet, and hope to keep it that way.

I’ve also tested the Gen 3 Coyote a bit. Key on wakes it up. Throttle body is responding to the accelerator pedal. The ODB2 port is active. Turning the key to start without the clutch pedal does nothing like it’s supposed to. With the clutch pedal down the starter engages. So all perfect there. I didn’t hook the fuel pump wire to the RF fuse panel yet because I don’t want to be running the pump in a dry tank. But testing it with a VOM. It acts differently than my Gen 2. I think it’s OK but checking with Ford. Won’t explain any further until I get an answer. Don’t want to give out bad information. Also found that removing the stock oil pressure sensor is not a popular move with the PCM. Keeps throwing codes related to that. Plugged the sensor back in and the codes stopped. I was told the sensor isn’t active in the crate motor program, so made sense to simplify and just replace it with the Speedhut sensor. But apparently the PCM is still checking for it. I’ve got that open question with Ford as well.

So, for pictures, I posted this one a few weeks ago. Safe to say this was before doing much with the cockpit wiring.


This is from a few minutes ago.


More work and some clean-up to do yet, but hopefully it looks a little different. On the RH side, can see where the master disconnect is located and where the main power from the master disconnect comes into the cockpit area. The bus bar (cover not installed yet) has the RF power and alternator leads, plus powers three of the four circuit breakers at the center. The breakers are for the fog lights, headlight module, and two aux ports. The USB aux port will be powered by one of the accessory leads from the Digital Guard Dog. The other aux port I’m going to leave straight to battery. Will need to be careful, but did that intentionally so I can plug my battery tester and trickle charger there versus the somewhat inconvenient battery location. The ODB2 port is just visible on the angled frame piece below the steering column. I’m in the process of installing the inertia switch on the DS tunnel inside the angled frame piece. Room there plus reachable from the driver’s seat. The two open connectors above the steering column are for the dash/gauge cluster. Once the position is finalized above the ducts for the defroster and LH outlet, I'll mount the harness on the gauge cluster with the mating connectors oriented accordingly. My plan has always been to have the dash/gauge cluster removable, providing access to all the behind the dash wiring. So far, on track.

Just a couple more details here, then need to punch through the firewall for the engine sending units, tach, and alternator. Then this will be as far as I’m going to take the cockpit right now. Then will wire the gauge cluster and should be ready for first start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #217 (Edited)
More Electrical

Making progress. RF wiring from cockpit to engine compartment done. Gauge cluster wiring done. More progress with the balance of the cockpit wiring. Details with each pic.

One of the charms starting with the Gen 2 Coyote is no tach wire in the control pack. Gen 3 is no different. I mentioned this earlier, but I did ask Ford about this. They said starting with the generation PCM in the Gen 2, there were no useable tach signals from the system for aftermarket tachs. Said that most installations will require a tach adapter. Fortunately, for those of us using the Speedhut gauges, it only takes a signal wire and no adapter. One of their programmable settings it based on having a single signal from one of the Coil on Plug (COP) modules. But it does require breaking into the harness to tap the wire. On the Gen 2 in #8674 I broke into cylinder #7. That seemed to fall in line with the harness from the cockpit. On the Gen 3 though, Ford has changed the layout and cylinder #5 worked out better. Doesn’t matter. All the COP modules have 2 wires. One is common to all, the other is the signal wire for that cylinder. The signal wire is the one you want. I showed more detail in the #8674 build thread. Basically, get the tape insulation off the two wires, then with a sharp knife or X-Acto, carefully remove about 1/4-inch or so of insulation from an appropriate location on the signal wire without nicking or cutting the wire. Then attach a length of wire. I did my usual crimp and touch of solder. Then wrap with a piece of electrical tape and restore the original harness tape. You can see my finished product here. I had to put a small amount of electrical tape on the outside at the top where the original harness tape was damaged when I pulled it back. The rest unwound and went back fine. I put a female spade connector on the end, and covered the wire and connector with shrink sleeve. Now ready to receive the tach wire from the cockpit. The Speedhut tach needs to be programmed to the .5 pulse per rev setting. Very important to get the proper reading on the tach.


With that, I was able to punch through the firewall and hook up the balance of the connections from the cockpit. Tach (described above), water temp, oil pressure, and the battery charging wire from the alternator. Engine connections are now completed. Wrapped up some more details in the cockpit wiring. Remaining are turn signal/hazards, wiper washer, and my center switch panel which includes the heat/AC connections. But nothing that prevents first start.


Then onto the gauge cluster. As of this afternoon, it’s done and everything lights and works the way it’s supposed to. Voltage gauge is working. Should see the gas gauge when I finally put some gas in the tank. The rest will be tested with the engine actually running to see tach, water temp and oil pressure. Speedo acquires GPS and I’m sure it will work fine whenever this thing moves under its own power.

To start, as mentioned before, wanted the harness to be oriented in the proper location to meet up with the connectors behind the dash plus stay out of the way of the heat/AC ducting. Decided I wanted something to hang the harness and connector leads on so it stays in the right place plus not tugging on all the wiring connections. After thinking about it a bit, quickly fabbed up a bracket that goes under one of the gauge retainer rings and allows me to secure the harness leads.


Installed on the tach gauge, finalized the location, and took the “before” picture.


Some hours later, everything all hooked up and tested. Still haven’t figured out the best way to manage the two daisy chains Speedhut uses for the gauges. No way to make them very pretty, and don’t want to get carried away and make service difficult should the need arise. So basically, just stack them up and secure with tie wraps. Couple clips and everything will be loose again. With a little creativity I was able to get every connection required for the gauge cluster through the two existing connectors except the GPS antenna.


This Saturday we’re having another open house with our local club like the one we did last year. Lots of folks interested in the Coupe build and hopefully they’ll agree there’s some progress. Fun to share and I enjoy their company. Just a few more loose ends and should be ready for first start. Stay tuned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
Discussion Starter #218 (Edited)
Gen 3 Coyote First Start!!!

Today finished the last details before first start, so went for it. No particular surprises really. Put fuel in the tank for the first time. Nearly all of a 5 gallon can and shows a little under 1/4 full on the gauge. Good. Took a bit to get the Aeromotive regulator set. Needs to be 65 PSI, according to the Ford instructions, for the Gen 3 Coyote. The short bursts of the fuel pump when turning the key to run was taking a long time and didn't seem to tell me much. So just hot wired the fuel pump so it would run continuously with the key off (clip lead into the RF fuse panel) and that worked. The regulator was way off and I would probably never have gotten it set without doing it that way. Checked all the fuel lines and connections and no signs of any leaks. With that, no more excuses. So set the camera on a tripod, had a fire extinguisher nearby and cranked away. It didn't jump to life like my previous Coyote. But still started and all good. Had immediate oil pressure and tach reading. Plus voltage jumped up a bit so the alternator was working. Some smoke off the new headers, but that cleared. After the first 1 minute or so run, stopped and looked everything over. No sign of any leaks or any issues. Ran it a few more times. Subsequent starts were nearly instant like I'm used to. Water temp gauge and cooling fan work. Since the rear wheels were off the ground, ran the transmission through a couple gears. All good, and the reverse lockout module is working properly. These aren't the greatest videos, but you get the idea. The last video, with the engine at temp, hit it harder a couple times. It sounds angry. I have temporary Roadster side pipes on it right now. BTW, the first video is the real deal. Actually is the very first attempt to start. No camera tricks. :p

https://youtu.be/4ytnm8CV5ZQ

https://youtu.be/aESV65nw4ok

https://youtu.be/6ZqzZrdcMSY

https://youtu.be/LY6-IUp3na8
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,158 Posts
Congratulations Paul! That's a great sounding engine...


John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Today finished the last details before first start, so went for it. No particular surprises really. Put fuel in the tank for the first time. Nearly all of a 5 gallon can and shows a little under 1/4 full on the gauge. Good. Took a bit to get the Aeromotive regulator set. Needs to be 65 PSI, according to the Ford instructions, for the Gen 3 Coyote. The short bursts of the fuel pump when turning the key to run was taking a long time and didn't seem to tell me much. So just hot wired the fuel pump so it would run continuously with the key off (clip lead into the RF fuse panel) and that worked. The regulator was way off and I would probably never have gotten it set without doing it that way. Checked all the fuel lines and connections and no signs of any leaks. With that, no more excuses. So set the camera on a tripod, had a fire extinguisher nearby and cranked away. It didn't jump to life like my previous Coyote. But still started and all good. Had immediate oil pressure and tach reading. Plus voltage jumped up a bit so the alternator was working. Some smoke off the new headers, but that cleared. After the first 1 minute or so run, stopped and looked everything over. No sign of any leaks or any issues. Ran it a few more times. Subsequent starts were nearly instant like I'm used to. Water temp gauge and cooling fan work. Since the rear wheels were off the ground, ran the transmission through a couple gears. All good, and the reverse lockout module is working properly. These aren't the greatest videos, but you get the idea. The last video, with the engine at temp, hit it harder a couple times. It sounds angry. I have temporary Roadster side pipes on it right now. BTW, the first video is the real deal. Actually is the very first attempt to start. No camera tricks. :p

https://youtu.be/4ytnm8CV5ZQ

https://youtu.be/aESV65nw4ok

https://youtu.be/6ZqzZrdcMSY

https://youtu.be/LY6-IUp3na8
Congrats Paul - Sounds GREAT!!!
 
201 - 220 of 354 Posts
Top