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Discussion Starter #1
Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build

Time to start another build! This will be my fourth FF build, and the first one that doesn't look like a Roadster. I’ve always had my eye on the Type 65 Coupe. When Factory Five announced the Gen 3 Coupe, I started considering it more seriously. I saw it in person for the first time at the 2017 Open House in Wareham. Then again at the 2017 London Cobra Show. I like what they've done with it, and am excited to start this all over again. I really enjoy the build process and this looks like an interesting challenge. This will be a 99% street cruiser. Of course performance is important. But also want it to be streetable and relatively comfortable. With a top and HVAC, maybe some added comfort compared to the Roadster. Still a fair weather car though and will spend Michigan winters in hibernation. I'm planning to take my time with the build. Probably in the 2 year range. The 20th Anniversary Roadster isn't going anywhere though! It's staying right here. So, something to build and something to drive. Doesn’t get better than that.

I had the first week of September circled on my calendar as the right time to order my Coupe. That fit with some other stuff going on including getting my garage and workshop rehab completed. When the time came, thank you Factory Five for announcing the first sale on the Gen 3 Coupe! I placed my order and received a November 18 completion date. I ordered the following:

Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe Complete Kit
Gloss black powder coated chassis
Body cutouts and Nose Scoops
GPS Gauge Set
31 Spline Coyote T-56 Magnum w/IRS driveshaft
5.0L Coyote Install Kit
Vinyl Roadster Seats. Will replace with high backs. TBD
2015+ Mustang based IRS
Double Adjustable Koni shocks
Black Carpet Package
Leather Steering Wheel
Front and rear swaybar
18-inch wheels (free with Fall Sale!!)
Wilwood 12.88-inch brakes front and rear, black calipers
Stewart Delivery

This is the first time I haven't picked up my kit in person. Not sure how well it would fit into my 14-foot SE plus I really don't need the long drive and mess around with sales tax which wasn't the case before. I'm still working on the details of the actual build plan. Lots of TBD's that I'll decide about as I go and start mocking things up, plus watch and learn from other builds.

Like my Anniversary Roadster build, this will be a Coyote build. Just can’t say enough good things about that engine in these cars. The Roadster is just awesome with the Gen 2 Coyote it has. With the 2018 Mustang, now in production, Ford introduced the Gen 3 Coyote. More power (of course!) and some interesting new features. Somehow Gen 3 Coupe and Gen 3 Coyote has a nice ring to it and I enjoy trying new stuff. Ford is saying they will have a crate version of the Gen 3 Coyote “sometime” in 2018. I will stay on top of it and hopefully that will work out.

I've also decided to go with a T56 Magnum to get 6 speeds plus supposedly it shifts nice. The price is only slightly more than the Liberty modified TKO's I've used on my last two builds. A little bit bigger and heavier, but looks like it fits into the Gen 3 Coupe OK.

The IRS, sway bars, shocks and brakes are all the same as on my current 20th Anniversary Roadster. Everything about that car is absolutely perfect, so I'm not changing anything there. I'll be doing heat and A/C for the first time. Still looking at options for the PS and A/C pumps on the Coyote. There are several. I'm not going to go crazy, but I want the interior to be nicely finished and detailed. Carpet, headliner, nice dash, etc. I'm going to decide about seats later as well. We'll see how that all works out.

I'm also pretty certain I'm going to try a hydraulic throw-out bearing setup. I've done a hydraulic clutch on my last two Roadster builds, and love how well it works. Plus with the Wilwood pedal box it's easy at that end. But I'm leaning towards not doing the external slave and instead doing an internal hydraulic TOB. That's what the newer Mustangs use. I've heard nothing but good things about the Tilton 6000 TOB, so that's what I'm considering. Yes, it's risky because of major tear-down in case of issues. We'll see.

So, these are the details of my build plan so far:

2018+ Gen 3 Coyote Crate Engine and Controls Pack
4 into 4 straight tube headers (TBD)
QuickTime bell housing (only option with the T56)
Ford Racing billet steel flywheel
Ford Racing / Centerforce dual friction clutch
Tilton 6000 hydraulic throw-out bearing
Tremec Magnum T-56 6-speed transmission (2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63)
3.73 Torsen 2015+ IRS center section. Interested to try the Torsen version, plus the 3.73 ratio matches up with the T56 perfectly
Heater, defroster, and A/C (details TBD)
Heated seats if possible (orders from the boss)
Hydraulic power steering (likely Breeze rack and KRC pump)
Manual brakes (kit supplied Wilwood pedal box)
Full aluminum panel powder coat and Lizard Skin insulation
Mustang style coolant routing and aftermarket expansion tank
High finish interior including dash, gauges/switches, carpet, headliner, etc.
Cruise control (maybe)
Aftermarket wipers and washers (not Lucas)
All LED lighting, footwell lights, trunk light, backup light, center brake light in spoiler
Breeze locking cap under LeMans cap
Rigid stainless fuel and brake lines, Pro-M 3/8-inch fuel pump hangar
Floor mod above trunk (like in the Roadsters) to claim unused space above the tank, with a hinged cover
Color and stripe (if used) TBD. Thinking about blue, but I’ve said that before. Kind of stuck on candy red. We’ll see.

Received word and a picture from Factory Five that my Coupe was finished on the promised date and ready for pickup. Lost a few days due to the Thanksgiving weekend, but Stewart picked it up earlier this week and today was delivery day. Driver arrived just before lunchtime as promised, and everything is in my garage now. The backorder list is about one page long. Shorter than my Anniversary Roadster, but missing some key parts. Front LCA’s, all four IRS control arms, and toe arms. Once I complete the inventory I’ll talk to Factory Five and hopefully get some updates about the backorders. In general, the chassis and body look great. No obvious defects with the body that I can see. As noted in the title, my Coupe has serial number 59.

I’m doing this build thread with the pictures hosted on the forum. I’ve used Photobucket for some years. But because of changes they made regarding third party hosting and costs, going another direction. First pic is in the rack at Factory Five. Balance are from the delivery completed today.








Away we go!
 

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Cant wait to watch this build!
Thanks in advance for taking the time put together your build threads.
It is a huge help to us builders that rely on information like yours.
 

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Paul. I used the A/C from FFR and am pretty happy with it. It came with a Ford compressor that just bolted in place. I also used the Coyote power steering kit that they said would not work with the A/C. (in there instructions) It fit and worked perfectly. in fact the power steering pump is no where close to the A/C. Take a look at there A/C and power steering instructions online.
Mike
 

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Sounds like a sound build plan Paul.
Your garage came out really nice, so it will be a great place to work in.
I will be following your thread!

John
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Inventory Complete and First Impressions

Today I completed a detailed inventory of everything received. 30 boxes and piles of packing paper later, pretty good results. I had two parts missing and one damaged. That’s it. Significantly better than my last Roadster build. I have 24 parts on my backorder list (POL). Most are minor and whenever they come is OK. But I am missing all the IRS control arms plus the front lower control arms. So I’m obviously anxious to get those so I can starting hanging the suspensions. I’ve got follow-up underway with Factory Five and hopefully they will have some good news for me. Once again I was reminded how important the inventory step is. Not only to make sure you have everything you paid for, but just to see and handle the parts, gain familiarity, etc. I open every bag, count very nut and bolt, measure everything, test the electrical parts, etc. There are a number of parts I’ve seen before. But also quite a few different ones with the Coupe. I was digging through the manual more than once figuring things out. As I’ve done in the past, generally left everything in the boxes they came in, and will use the box by box listing to retrieve things when needed. Marking them off as I go. Same with the backorder items. I’ll add them to the boxes they were supposed to be in when they arrive. Staying organized is important with these builds IMO.

I received what appears to be the newer version of the Ron Francis harness. The wiring manual is revision S, dated February 2017. I didn't go through every detail, but appears one of the big changes is the dash harness. Given the struggles some have had with the Speedhut gauges, this will be a nice improvement. Harness is different plus even explained in the manual. I'll probably see some other differences once I get to actual wiring.

Also like how the new Coupe comes with LED lights for the front and rear running lights, turn signals, brake lights. Nice touch. Still the old style halogen headlights though. I'll be changing those to LED as well.

It’s still early, so no assembly progress to report. But some impressions after having the new Coupe in my garage for a few days. The body is clean, in good shape, with little/no repair needed. I was a little nervous because some earlier builds showed some pictures of some not very nice defects. But nothing like that from what I’ve seen so far and I looked it over very closely. Both the windshield and rear glass appear to fit well. There is a little bit of the usual weld splatter on the chassis, but not too bad. The powder coat looks nice. The space frame chassis is just so different from the Roadsters I’ve built. Here’s a picture from underneath while up on my new lift. (Love it.) You can just see the motor mounts in the foreground. Looks nice and wide for engine and transmission options. This chassis doesn’t use a transmission frame like the Roadsters. There’s a bracket that goes across the back for the rear mount. Also visible in this picture is the sheet steel welded in where your feet are in the footboxes.


The front and rear IRS suspensions appear identical to what I had with Roadster #8674. The front swaybar attachment is slightly different. Rear swaybar is the same. One interesting difference is two sets of holes for the control arms. One for normal height, and a lower set for a race/competition setup. Several of the build threads have commented about the width of the Coupe body compared to the standard suspension setup. I measured 72-5/8 inches body width at the top of the rear wheel lips. #8674 with the same 2015+ IRS suspension measures 70-3/8 inches wide at the top of the rear tires. That explains why several have suggested using 1 or 1-1/8 inch hubcentric wheel spacers on the Coupe. I’ll be doing the same. There are a number of nicely fabricated laser cut/welded parts. The very substantial door hinges, door frames, hatch hinges, body mounts are all examples. Nice work Factory Five. The bearclaw door latches will be a nice upgrade from the vintage Roadster latches.

Onward!
 

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I'll be following along closely as well! I'm sure you'll jump well ahead of me in the build and I've already been reviewing your roadster build for ideas (like I'm starting to prep, POR, and clear the rear diff like you did).

As for inventory, mine was missing the IRS arms as well as the carpet, headlight covers, and a few other things. The IRS arms were shipped and delivered within two weeks of my kit arrival so hopefully yours will be a similar or shorter timeframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Still Mostly Planning and Spending Money

It’s been over a week since my last update. The fast builders might have a roller by now (!). Not me. Still thinking, planning, shopping, some minor work and assembly, lots of reading, tinkering, and just staring at the thing.

I have a line by line response from Factory Five regarding my 20+ backorder items and couple of parts issues. Most were supposed to be available in a week or two. Haven’t seen any shipments or notifications yet, but hopefully soon. Not holding me up but will be happy mainly when I can get enough parts to put the suspensions together.

I’ve spent quite a lot of time going through the manual reviewing the major assembly steps, very roughly mocking up or visualizing a number of things, and trying to familiarize myself with the Coupe build. This is just something I do, and actually really enjoy it. While there are a number of similarities to the previous Roadster builds, there are also a number of significant differences. Some because of the very different frame design. Also obviously the body with the tip-up nose is very different. The newly released Gen 3 build manual is a huge help (kudos to guys who did early builds without manuals!) but is still a work in process IMO. A lot of the pictures are stock pictures (Roadster, previous Coupes versions, etc.) or of parts that have since changed. Like the front body hinges. Some details are a little sketchy though, mainly for me anyway there just isn’t much detail on electrical or wiring. Donor Mustang harness wiring has some pages, but little on the RF harness. The RF harness manual only shows the Roadster. I’m not even sure where to mount the RF fuse panel since that area of the DS footbox is very different. But wiring doesn’t bother me and I’ll figure it all out. Also I'll be watching other build threads plus probably see other Gen 3's in person during my build. Everything helps. Note these comments aren’t meant to be critical. Just where the kit is at right now.

My build plan is for power steering. No debate there at all. I have done builds with and without, and there’s no comparison. As I say whenever this comes up on the forum (a lot…) not just for reduced effort mainly at slow speeds, but for the increased caster and how it makes the car drive. I was a little on the bubble about how to do the power steering on this build. Looked at a couple of the electric options, did some research, read lots of posts and reviews, looked at costs, etc. After all was said and done, going to stay traditional with a hydraulic steering rack and engine driven pump. Ordered the Unisteer 3-turn rack from Mark at Breeze. I’ve used this rack twice before and it’s excellent. Not the cheapest or the most expensive, but for me hits the sweet spot of quality and good performance. Not sure which Coyote PS pump setup I’ll use yet. There are several options that also work together with A/C. But won’t make any decisions or spend $ until the engine decision is final. The KRC pump along with the Breeze rack on #8674 is perfect, so will try to duplicate that as much as possible. That theme will repeat itself a lot. For now, I’m waiting for the rack to be delivered. Typically takes a week or two to drop ship from the vendor. I’ll be using Moog ES2150RL tie rod ends and Energy Suspension 9.13101G tie rod dust boots also as before. Already received from Summit. Their shipping speed continues to amaze.

I found the supplied Mevotech upper ball joints don’t fit the upper control arms. Again. This is an often discussed issue. I know there are ways to probably get them to fit. But I’m going to use the same Howe Racing 22320S upper ball joints as #8674. They’re super high quality parts and go in perfectly. Goes along with my ongoing theme of staying with what worked so well on the last build. This was discussed quite a bit in another thread. No need to duplicate here. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/538873-upper-ball-joints-ugh.html. Also using the Energy Suspension 5.13102G boots on the upper ball joints.

I’ve probably spent the most time going through all the boxes and retrieving bare metal parts that I will take for powder coat. As I mentioned in an earlier post, there are a number of fabricated parts for this build. Mainly steel and are unfinished. Things like front body hinges, rear body mounts, door hinges, door frames, transmission mount, hatch hinges, sway bar mounts, etc. I went through all of them cleaning them up a bit. Taking off rough edges, the little “nibs” left over from laser cutting, minor weld splatter, etc. I have a couple more on my backorder list. When those are received will take the parts to be coated. These will all be gloss black to match the frame powder coat. I’ll be powder coating all the aluminum panels as well. Still undecided about the color for those. This isn’t much of a picture, but box of goodies so far.


The big issue I’ve been dealing with though is obtaining the IRS differential and knuckles/hubs. For #8674, it was early in the game and the parts weren’t available for purchase separately. I was very fortunate to obtain a zero mile takeout IRS complete assembly. It was big, heavy, and some work to disassemble and rehab the parts. But it was the only choice at the time and I thought I could recoup some of the cost by selling the leftover parts. Wasn’t the case. Made about $60 total and still ended up putting some out for recycle. Just no market for OE parts. At least at that time. For this build, I decided early on I wanted to do a 6-speed T-56 Magnum transmission. With the T-56 ratios available, the 3.73 diff ratio is spot on. In stock form, that meant the Torsen version diff. But that was OK since I was interested in trying that too. Since making these decisions some months ago, I’ve been watching for a deal on a 3.73 Torsen diff. They rarely came up. When they did, weren’t particularly cheap (typically twice the non-Torsen versions) and nothing like the zero miles diff I obtained before. Were off wrecked/salvage cars, and in a couple cases, meant taking the whole IRS pallet again. Plus once those have been on the road, the iron case (the only version for the 3.73 as best I can tell) looks like it has barnacles it’s so rusty. Now it’s decision time with no prospects, plus at this point I want to stay with all new parts. So I decided to bite the bullet and order a brand new diff. (What budget???) Placed the order for the 3.73 IRS Torsen diff and knuckles/hubs from the place that had the best price, which turned out was the same place I bought the Coyote and related for #8674. They contacted me almost immediately and told me that Ford Performance has discontinued the M-4001-88373T diff and they couldn’t get one for me since they drop ship from Ford Performance directly. Good grief! I started shopping around, and found the same story from multiple suppliers. But I did end up finding a new one sitting on the shelf so I grabbed it. Was a little more expensive still (never ends I guess) and is on a truck and should be here later this week. My knuckles and hubs are supposed to be delivered today. I ordered the vent plug and tube from Tasca Parts and they should be here in a few days as well. I’ll get the diff painted and prepped and hung in the chassis soon I hope. Our youngest son and wife will be here for the holidays. Maybe I can get him to help add some muscle to get it in. But this all is a bit of a mystery to me. Looks to me like Ford is still offering the 3.73 Torsen option on the 2018 Mustang as part of their Performance Pack. Maybe it’s something different now. Or maybe they’re no longer offering them through Ford Performance. Doesn’t matter now because it looks like I’m all set. But might be something for other builds to watch out for if you want to go this way.

Still on track hopefully to do the 2018 Gen 3 Coyote crate with this build. I have a couple sources, inside and outside of Ford Performance, who are saying "second quarter 2018." Appears they have it in their lab and in work at this time. I do want the complete drivetrain fairly early in the build so I can mock up everything that goes around it. Just so many differences compared to previous Roadster builds that I'm not comfortable forging ahead too far without the engine and trans sitting there. That timing should work but we'll see. If it gets delayed and I'm ready, I wouldn't have a problem changing to the Gen 2 Coyote. But I'd really like to try the new one if possible. We'll see.

One final thing. These past weeks have been dominated mainly by my wife undergoing left hip replacement surgery. This has been brewing for a long time. Thanks to family genes and the nasty arthritis she inherited. She’s 4 weeks in as of today, and is doing fantastic. Down to just a couple Tylenol a day and mobility already way better than before. She has a ways to go yet, but so thankful for modern medicine and what they can do. I’ve had to do most of the shopping, cooking, cleaning, etc. but no big deal. Don’t know how we could have done it if I wasn’t retired though.

Enough rambling. Probably won’t be another update for a while. Until then, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all.
 

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...Placed the order for the 3.73 IRS Torsen diff and knuckles/hubs from the place that had the best price, which turned out was the same place I bought the Coyote and related for #8674. They contacted me almost immediately and told me that Ford Performance has discontinued the M-4001-88373T diff and they couldn’t get one for me since they drop ship from Ford Performance directly. Good grief! I started shopping around, and found the same story from multiple suppliers. But I did end up finding a new one sitting on the shelf so I grabbed it. Was a little more expensive still (never ends I guess) and is on a truck and should be here later this week.
I had the same situation for my Coupe parts. I ordered the 3.73 T-2R Torsen IRS center section and knuckles/hubs from Don Wood Ford Racing Parts in Nov. I got the knuckles, but kept getting strung along on the center section. Got a call Monday that Ford discontinued it, followed my a flurry of calls made to find anyone who actually had one on the shelf. Got one from Summit for a little more $$ and it arrived this morning (free freight!)

FYI to anyone else wanting a new Torsen center section: Summit had three on the shelf Monday when I ordered mine.... two (or less) left now.

I'm also using the close-ratio T-56 Magnum, but I'm swapping the rear gears from 3.73 to 3.31 - in my heavier 1987 mustang, 1st and 2nd had to be used very gently to have any traction with 490rwhp, even with a Griggs rear torque-arm suspension. I'm expecting even with the lower ratio 3.31 ring (12.7% reduction), the difference in the weight of the car (~2500lbs vs. 3300lbs, ~32% reduction) will make for ludicrous acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I had the same situation for my Coupe parts. I ordered the 3.73 T-2R Torsen IRS center section and knuckles/hubs from Don Wood Ford Racing Parts in Nov. I got the knuckles, but kept getting strung along on the center section. Got a call Monday that Ford discontinued it, followed my a flurry of calls made to find anyone who actually had one on the shelf. Got one from Summit for a little more $$ and it arrived this morning (free freight!)

FYI to anyone else wanting a new Torsen center section: Summit had three on the shelf Monday when I ordered mine.... two (or less) left now.

I'm also using the close-ratio T-56 Magnum, but I'm swapping the rear gears from 3.73 to 3.31 - in my heavier 1987 mustang, 1st and 2nd had to be used very gently to have any traction with 490rwhp, even with a Griggs rear torque-arm suspension. I'm expecting even with the lower ratio 3.31 ring (12.7% reduction), the difference in the weight of the car (~2500lbs vs. 3300lbs, ~32% reduction) will make for ludicrous acceleration.
Nearly exact same story as mine. Summit has one less now. It's supposed to be here tomorrow. :001_tongue:

For my setup, I'm expecting the 3.73 gearing to be OK with the planned Coyote engine. I've driven Roadster #8674 with a TKO and 3.55 gearing with the Coyote for a season, and find the gearing nearly ideal and I'm really happy with it. Yes, with street performance tires, traction can be challenging in the lower gears. But I'm not going to change anything. At least not initially. The planned T-56 and 3.73 gearing I'm planning for this build should be very similar to the Roadster. What's especially nice is the closer ratios in the upper gears. These are calculations at 6,000 for reference.

Calculations for TKO-600 and 3.55 diff in Roadster #8674
Engine RPM = 6000, Tire diameter = 25.5
2.87 1st 44.68
1.89 2nd 67.84
1.28 3rd 100.17
1.00 4th 128.22
.64 5th 200.34
RPM @ 70 mph in 5th 2100

Calculations for T-56 Magnum TUET11010 and 3.73 diff in Coupe #59
Engine RPM = 6000, Tire diameter = 25.5
2.66 1st 45.88
1.78 2nd 68.56
1.30 3rd 93.87
1.00 4th 122.03
.80 5th 152.54
.63 6th 193.7
RPM @ 70 mph in 6th 2150
 

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For me, winding at 2150 on the highway at 70 cruise would be too high - just unpleasant and not relaxed enough.
Also 78 - 80 seems to be the default speed of traffic from my experience recently on trips from MA to NJ. 80 is 14% higher than 70.
If it was me I would use a 3.27 or 3.31 rear gear.
5th can be your performance cruise gear and 6th is your overdrive.
Added 1-3-17
Hi Paul - hey I stand by my lower rev recommendations :). Your comments however brought back fond memories of comments I got from my dirtbike friends who always said i was a lugger - they always thought I shifted early :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
For me, winding at 2150 on the highway at 70 cruise would be too high - just unpleasant and not relaxed enough.
Also 78 - 80 seems to be the default speed of traffic from my experience recently on trips from MA to NJ. 80 is 14% higher than 70.
If it was me I would use a 3.27 or 3.31 rear gear.
5th can be your performance cruise gear and 6th is your overdrive.
Hey Mark! Good to hear from you. For Roadster #8674 with the Coyote, TKO, and 3.55, I have lots of miles cruising. It calculates at 2100 at 70 mph, and that's exactly what I see while driving. For the Coyote, it's actually quite relaxed and easy at that RPM. Not loud or unpleasant at all. Even if going somewhat faster.

I had 3.27 gears in Roadster #7750. Not a Coyote, but similar HP. It had a more relaxed cruise RPM, but I honestly felt it was a little "soft" through the lower gears. If I'm going to compromise anywhere, it would be for highway cruise versus my more typical street driving.

It's academic for the diff though. Already bought the 3.73. The ratio could be changed later after driving if I really wanted to. Another option would be the other available T-56. It has .74 and .50 overdrive gears. Haven't bought the T-56 yet, but at least right now don't like the lower gears in that version.

Lots of give and take on every decision with these builds.
 

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this Gen 3 coupe is just beautiful. cant wait to order one and start building with my son. cant think of a better project with him since he was too young when I built the Roadster.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Suspension Assembly Prep

Yesterday I received four boxes from Factory Five. Down to 16 backordered items. Plus my three part issues (2 missing, 1 defective) were resolved. So making progress. But unfortunately all the IRS arms are still on the list, so won’t be making too much headway there. I did get the front LCA’s, so I have everything on hand to complete the front suspension less sway bar. Also yesterday I received my 3.73 Torsen differential. Had to come cross country and then got hung up in Chicago due to weather. But it arrived late last night. The one I had for #8674 was in good shape (zero miles take out) but wasn’t new in box like this one. Nice. But you do pay for it…



I’ll be painting the case with POR15 and the rear cover with some Duplicolor clear, like before. I ordered the little fitting that goes into the vent because all the new ones I heard about didn’t have it. Mine didn’t either out of the box, but there was one in a bag taped inside the box. I haven’t weighed this thing yet, but it’s a chunk. Shipping weight in a box and strapped to a skid was 130 lbs. I’m sure it’s right around 100 lbs, similar to the iron case 3.55 that’s in #8674.

I’ve been working on the hubs and spindles getting them ready to install. They were also new in box, so clean and fresh. First thing was to remove the 14mm x 1.5 metric studs and replace with the kit supplied 1/2" x 20 studs. That makes the rear studs match the front hub studs plus the FF Halibrand wheel lug nuts. The instructions say to pound out the old studs with a hammer. I’m not big on beating on things with a hammer, even though the hubs should be able to take it. Instead I cobbled up a piece from a 3-inch piece of black pipe and pressed them out using my bench vise. Less stressful for me plus the hubs. The cuts in the pipe allow it to clear and works pretty well. Getting a little beat up after two sets though.


I put the new studs back in using a pneumatic impact wrench, a stack of three hardened washers, and a hardened 1/2" x 20 nut. I smear grease on the washers and the nut and they pull in OK after some chugging by the wrench. I’ve suggested this method to others and they also had success. Don’t use the lug nuts supplied with the wheel for this though. They’ll get beat up. Then I put some POR15 on the hubs. Certainly not necessary, but just prefer the look over the eventually rusty finish.

Next up I cut the knuckles as shown in the instructions. I do leave a little more meat than what the instructions show. There’s no problem with clearance. I cut them on my band saw and then cleaned the ends on the stationary disk sander. Then drilled out the holes to 5/8-inch also as shown in the instructions. I fixtured the knuckles so they were held firmly and the hole exactly perpendicular to the drill bit. I used a step bit first as deep as I could go. That made the top part of the hole 5/8-inch and nice taper the rest of the way. The regular drill bit then finished the job smoothly without grabbing. Finally, I made some small covers out of aluminum sheet for the hole where the ABS sensors are mounted. No ABS for this build, and not sure that open hole directly into the bearings would be a good thing. Used some 1/4" x 20 machine screws to hold the covers.

Like I did with #8674, I spend a little time with the knuckles cleaning up the parting lines in the castings. Combination of files, Dremel, sandpaper, etc. Again, certainly not necessary, but the kind of thing I enjoy doing. Strange, I know. Then assembled the hubs to the knuckles, torquing the bolts to the prescribed 98 foot pounds. I’ll be finishing them off with POR15 over the rest. I saw another build with the knuckles painted black, and liked the look. Matches the rest of the powder coated suspension parts.



While I had the POR15 going, also put some on the front hubs. After removing the ABS tone rings. Same reasons. Prefer the more finished look plus they’ll get rusty if not finished. One thing to think about with the Coupe – with the tip front open, the entire front suspension is exposed.


Next up will be to assemble the front suspension and brakes. Then hopefully will have the rest of the IRS parts to do the same for the rear suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Front Suspension

The front suspension is completely assembled except for the sway bar. Missing the sway bar bushings so can’t finish it yet. Everything else is done. The front suspension uses all the same components as the Roadster, so nothing too earthshaking here. Had to remove powder coat from holes, spread the tabs a bit on a couple, and adjust one of the holes just slightly on one LCA tab to get it to line up. Other than that, went together very normally and everything fit perfectly. I put grease into the LCA and UCA pivots before assembly. Confirms they are greased properly right from the start, plus makes them go together a little easier. I used a paint marker to indicate final torque completed as I went. For the upper ball joints, also put witness marks to monitor they aren’t moving.

As mentioned before, did use Howe Racing 22320S ball joints. Also switched the upper ball joint and tie rod ends to Energy Suspension boots. I used the Breeze 3-turn Unisteer power steering rack. Before putting in the coilovers, I propped the suspension up to approximate ride height and tried to get the alignment a little in the ball park. On the UCA, have the front adjuster out 2-3 times as much as the rear one for caster, used a level on the brake disks and adjusted to -.5 degrees camber, then used a laser pointer on the brake disks to get the toe relatively straight to the chassis. Probably won’t be all that close when it’s time for the real alignment. But hopefully not totally random. I don’t have the brakes completely assembled yet. I’ll do the safety wires and finalize everything at the same time as the rear brakes. From earlier today:






The last picture shows the Moog ES2150RL tie rod ends I’ve used on all my builds. They’re nice quality pieces, and I especially like how the threaded ends come through to the inside. Makes it real easy to confirm you have proper thread engagement. Plus eliminates having to trim the ends.

Several observations from the assembly specific to the Coupe. Factory Five provides two sets of holes for all the components including the steering rack. The lower holes for street use, the upper for racing use. I used all the lower holes except at the last minute noticed the instructions said to use the upper holes for the upper coilover mount if using the double action Koni’s like I have. Good thing I read the instructions. I changed the direction of the bolt installation for the front LCA mount and the steering rack. Installed like shown in the instructions would have made them difficult if not impossible to remove once the radiator is installed. On the Anniversary Roadster #8674 build, also with the Koni double action shocks, I had to trim where the shocks mount on the LCA to eliminate interference. Wasn’t necessary this time. FF changed the mount tabs so they no longer interfere. Continuous improvement! Way to go.

I also installed the steering column so I could center up the rack when installing and connecting the tie rod ends. Found out that I again had to mount the footbox steering shaft bearing on the inside of the footbox. Same as the Anniversary Roadster build, which had the same Breeze Unisteer power rack. Apparently that input shaft is slightly long. It’s not possible to get the steering shaft onto the rack input with the bearing on the outside of the footbox. Had to trim the bearing shells slightly along one edge, but other than that, no problem with it being inside. Another thing I noticed is Unisteer is now putting a groove around the entire diameter of the input shaft for the adapter set screw. So no matter where you orient it, the set screw drops into it. This is different than before (and most other racks) that just have a single cutout for the set screw. Then guys start wondering what to do when the steering wheel won't center with the rack.


Next up is to get the center section prepped and installed. Still don’t have IRS control arms, so won’t be able to do too much more there until they arrive. Hopefully soon. Plenty of other stuff to keep working on.

My son gave me this very cool 1:18 scale Daytona Coupe die-cast model for Christmas. Pretty well known model of the Coupe. I have the Cobra version already, so they’re a matched set. Well, except it's red. He said something about showing me how the Coupe needs to be blue. We’ll see.

 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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22,071 Posts
I think FFR should re-do things so that steering column bearing is always mounted in the inside. It sure would make getting the column into the right spline on the rack a lot easier if one could easily get a little extra clearance.
 

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5,765 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
IRS Prep

Pretty minor update. But it's been below zero outside so I've been working in the basement instead of heating the garage. Today I finished prepping the IRS components. Now I just need my backordered control arms so I can get this all assembled onto the chassis. The first pic is a little silly, but I'll post it anyway. I hung parts in one end of the utility room in our basement to get them finished and let them dry. Why hang laundry when you can hang car parts? For the CV axles and driveshaft I put some Duplicolor DE1636 Engine Clear on the exposed metal parts so they don't get surface rust. I'm silly about things like that I guess. Same clear on the rear cover and pinion flange of the center section. I've used that spray for several builds and it seems to hold up really well. I did have things masked off before spraying, so didn't get any clear on the boots, mating metal parts, etc.


Finished getting the center section prepped and ready. Drilled out the front ears to 5/8-inch per the instructions. That's probably only 1/16-inch or so bigger than it already is, so the drill bit wants to grab like crazy. I drilled as far as I could with a step drill and that helped. Then finished the rest with a regular drill. On the Roadster build, I used my pretty strong 1/2-inch corded drill. Man when that grabbed it about broke my wrists. So this time used an old 12-volt battery powered drill. Not very powerful, so rather than grab it would just stall. Without hurting me. Got them both drilled out and used the spinning bit to make the holes slightly oversized. The alignment to the chassis is really tight and I'm hoping this bit of clearance will make it a little easier to install.

I also drained the fluid. There are no instructions in the box and no indication of what fluid or how much it came with when shipped. So I drained it into a catch pan and then measured the amount. 1.6 quarts or a little over 1.5 liters. Exactly how much it's supposed to have when full. Once drained, I could smell the distinctive odor of the friction modifier. So bottom line it was probably good to go. Unfortunately, I didn't think that was going to be the case. It just didn't seem like there was much in it. So didn't drain it into clean containers. Now I'll need to replace. About $50 worth of fluids there. 75W-85 synthetic gear lube is specified along with XL-3 friction modifier. Not sure why they list friction modifier for the Torsen center section, but they do. How much fluid is shipped in these has been asked about on the forum before, so thought I would provide my observation for those that buy the NIB Ford IRS center sections.

Anyway, got the clear on as mentioned and then painted the iron case with POR15. That stuff is nice. Looks almost like powder coat. I also did the knuckles as I mentioned I was planning to do in a previous update. Also the sway bar mounts. In a day or two when this all sets up a little more, I'll get the center section into the chassis. I could use a good workout.


The e-brake handle parts are also slightly visible on the shelf setting up. Painted those with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Satin Aerosol, another product I really like. I have some more smaller projects I can work on. But hopefully the FedEx parts truck will be arriving any day now.
 

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Senior Member
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For anyone building one of these with the IRS, you might as well leave the metric studs in place and buy nuts for them. You will need to use spacers in the back unless you buy custom wheels. Just buy the spacers with the normal 1/2-20 threads. now all your lugs will be the same unless you remove the spacers.
Mike
 
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