Many have mounted them there. I'm going with IRS, so no worries about drive shaft movement. I'm also installing a drive shaft safety loop.

 

One important consideration Nigel is a location accessible to you after you're already strapped into the car. At least 5 or 6 times I've hit the starter in Naga and heard the CB pop rather than the engine turn over. :closedeyes:

I then reach down and turn on the kill switch and try again. Mine is on the inboard side of the driver's footbox. Under the dash. Not easily visible but very accessible.

Do you have the terminals covered where your battery cable hooks to the starter relay? The terminal on your starter relay? The same voltage and amperage is exposed at those spots.
I wouldn't worry about the back of the kill switch unless you have it close to something such as yoiur e-brake cable that could swing over and short it out.


d

 

Thanks for the response. I never even considered catching it with my arm or the fact that other terminals are also exposed without detriment. I will check out the position in the morning.
Thanks again, Nigel

 

I put mine down there and have had no problems. I did make a cover for the back side.

 

I placed my cutoff switch on the small aluminum panel under the dash in my MKII. As NAGA points out, it's easy to forget to connect or disconnect that switch, and so it's best reached when we are strapped into the cockpit. To help me with all of this, I went one step further. I have my ifgnition key on a lanyard, and the red electric shutoff paddle in on the other end of that same lanyard. That lets me engage the paddle and start the car easily every time. When I park, there's never any question of forgetting one or the other item in place. For this to work, the lanyard has to be long enough to reach both the ignition switch and the cutoff paddle socket.

 

That's where I have mine and reaching once strapped in isn't to bad but does require twisting. Bigger problem when that happens is that the key is normally in my pocket and those are very inaccessible with the straps on (Kirkey seats).

If you plan to run a EFI, a clock or a radio that requires an always on source for memory then you will need to have a fuse or auto-reset CB across the terminals.

I plan to coat the terminals with liquid tape.

Cheers, Rod

 

When I went to the Mott Build School, they had theirs on the back panel , between the seats...That puts the connections inside the trunk (which I covered with a plastic box)...
The problem that I see with the panel at the back of the tunnel, is the chance of hitting it with your shift arm....and the exposed lugs in the tunnel , which is subject to water.
My "keep-alive" blade fuse , is in a water-proof fuse container , just below the switch...So if I blow the 10 amp fuse (which I have, many times), it's easy to get to. I made a stainless "trim" plate , to fit over the neck of the switch, where it exits the back panel...that gives it a finished look.

 

I don't know how available they are everywhere else, but 10a resetable circuit breakers are easy to find here in Doo Dah.

If anyone ever wants me to pick one up and send it to you, give me a shout out. They're pocket change.

Mine is underneath the dash where I can reach it easily while strapped in.


d

 

I have mine mouned in the same place. Betwen the seats.
I used liquid electrical tape to paint a protective coating on the terminals. Does a good job of prodecting the terminals from road debirs.
You can buy this at most marine stores

 

Having done some regional SCCA racing in the past, I am aware of the racers use for cutoff switches. But i only autocross the FFR so mine is in the trunk and is used as an antitheft device. Turn it off and lock the trunk so any potential thief will, at least, have some extra work needed.

 

Just $.02 more from the secruity side of circuit control. A friend of mine suggested a circuit interrupt for my electric fuel pump. (I have EFI) I used a keyed on/off switch and mounted it on the under side of the dash.
Dan