I remember seeing a gear type adjuster near where the cable connects to rotor. The e-brake basically looks like a drum brake with a rotor attached.

 

There are a bunch of cogs on the e-brake handle that are supposed to self-adjust the cable....if you have the ebrake handle pulled, and if the cable goes slack half-way thru pushing the handle down, it should pick up the next cog so the cable will pull farther next time. If nothing else, you may have to pull the rear rotors and adjust the shoe adjuster that the ebrake activates.

 

I think Shane pegged it.. the handle is auto adjust, if theres not to much slack in the cable.

David

 

First check the wear on your pads. If it is not near the limit, you can add spacers under the cable stop at the splitter box. The guys who lengthened my cable made the cable too long in relation to the casing so I had to add a 1/2" spacer to compensate. To check how much you need, with the brake off, pull on the cable junction clip with your hand. This will tension the spring take-up on the handle. You can add a spacer a little less than this amount of travel but not so much that the splitter clip bottoms out against the housing when you pull the brake on hard. I bought regular stops from the hardware store, cut a slot in them and then crimped them under the original stop.

 

Thanks guys! I don't want to pull the boot off the e-brake if I can avoid it. I'll get it up on the lift and see if I can get a look at the shoes first and also how loose the cable might be. If the shoes are decent, I like the idea of a spacer in the splitter box connection! Next time, I'll be sure they are not so excited to drive that they forget the brake is on!

 

Cob, did you connect the switch on the brake handle? If not, I suggest that you do so. I have mine connected to a bright red light on the dash to protect myself and any other driver from doing what your friend did.