Ride height.............

Hi Stack,

I measured and adjusted mine from the frame, just ahead of the "rear" wheels and at the "front" just below the fire wall on the frame.

The front is most critical because of the suspension. I wanted to get the control arms so that motion would have minimal bump steer with normal driving. I also had the second motivation of keeping the nose cone off the pavement a reasonable amount.

If you want the measurements, I can check them tonight. All this is going to vary with different wheels and tires to a degree. But, I can give you rolling diameters if that will help.

When I adjusted the ride height on all four corners, I then went over to the County scales to weigh each corner (free to use!). Not that it's going to be raced or anything, but I wanted the cross weights to be at least reasonably close. With no driver and no passenger it was about 80lbs heavier in one cross weight than the other.

I took it back to the garage and put one additional turn in on the rear corner that was "light" and reweighed. That simple adjustment didn't do anything measurable to the ride height, but the cross weights were then within +or- 10lbs (the accuracy of the scales). That's the beauty of Coil Over Shocks. This is the same procedure I used on my Challenge series car in 2003, but I did it with just me in the driver's seat (as that's how it's raced).

Best regards,

 

Hi Stack,

I measured and adjusted mine from the frame, just ahead of the "rear" wheels and at the "front" just below the fire wall on the frame.

The front is most critical because of the suspension. I wanted to get the control arms so that motion would have minimal bump steer with normal driving. I also had the second motivation of keeping the nose cone off the pavement a reasonable amount.

If you want the measurements, I can check them tonight. All this is going to vary with different wheels and tires to a degree. But, I can give you rolling diameters if that will help.

When I adjusted the ride height on all four corners, I then went over to the County scales to weigh each corner (free to use!). Not that it's going to be raced or anything, but I wanted the cross weights to be at least reasonably close. With no driver and no passenger it was about 80lbs heavier in one cross weight than the other.

I took it back to the garage and put one additional turn in on the rear corner that was "light" and reweighed. That simple adjustment didn't do anything measurable to the ride height, but the cross weights were then within +or- 10lbs (the accuracy of the scales). That's the beauty of Coil Over Shocks. This is the same procedure I used on my Challenge series car in 2003, but I did it with just me in the driver's seat (as that's how it's raced).

Best regards,

Thanx Tom

Measure it up and let me know. i will have to get it on some scales but that will give me a starting point at least.

stack

 

dimensions

I was told that the front dimension was to be taken at the firewall and the rear dim. is to be taken at the rear of the frame at the back crossmember location. I think this puts the car a little to low for street use but probably just right for the track.

 

<i>"...........Measure it up and let me know.........."</i> - Stack
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<img src="http://www.aim-users.com/groundclear.jpg">

Front tire diameter = 24.9"
Front measurement = 4.5" from ground to frame (where diagonal member intersects with main frame rail below firewall)

Rear tire diameter = 26"
Rear measurement = 6-1/4" from ground to frame (where crossmember interesects with main frame rail ~4.5" ahead of rear wheel arch)

Nose cone measurement = 4-1/2" from ground to bottom of forwardmost fiberglass part of cone.
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At the above measurements, the lower A arms are slightly downward sloping toward the wheels. ~9-3/4" at the body work and about 8-3/4" at the "spindle" end. (measured in the center of the shaft)

<img src="http://www.aim-users.com/grndclr_2.jpg">
Tire size might vary the dimensions, but the slope should be about the same.

Hope this helps,

 

<i>......i will have to get it on some scales but that will give me a starting point at least......</i> - stack

Measuring the coil spring nut to the end of the threaded section and making both as close to equal as possible put the car pretty close to level and cross-weighted. The frame is at least as straight as the floor on which I was measuring! Only minor adjustment was necessary once the Konis were set nearly identical.

My corner and cross weights were:
(no driver or passenger, 1/2 tank of fuel)
Corners:
LF 560# RF 560 - 80#

LR 540 - 60# RR 580 #

Cross weights:
LR to RF = ~1140 lbs
RR to LF = ~1140 lbs

Total Weight:
~2260 -2280
(scales move in 20# increments)

With me in the car:

Corners:
LF 620# RF 560#

LR 660# RR 600#

Cross Weights:
LR to RF = 1220
RR to LF = 1220

Total Weight:
~2440 Lbs

Note the car is approx 50/50 front to rear without a driver. My lard makes it about 48/52 front to rear.

Hope this helps,

 

Nice work Tom.

Henry

 

Thnks Henry.