Rod,
That would work but getting the holes drilled through the wheel flange with extemely high accuracy would be the challenge. The spokes are only wide enough for a 6-32 with little of no wiggle room to adjust the ring for zero runout. That's the reason I bolted the ring to a plate within .010 runout and then bolted the plate the the flange where the 1/14-20 bolts offered another point of adjustment to acheive < 0.004 runout.

David,
If I understand your idea correctly, you want to increase the ID of the ring hole and mount it with a bushing that centers it on the welded area. To get low enough you will have to increase the ring ID to the pont it will be too thin or nonexistant. If you want to cut it out and mount to the bushing through the spokes, that would work. You need some sophisticated machine to cut that bevel in a bushing.

Keep in mind guys. I did this with a saber saw, files, a hand drill and a step bit. My toolbox is literaly a cardboard box with tools. I'm very ashamed.

BTW, tapping the flange was a piece of cake. No problem.

Greg

 

I'm impressed! I thought you had a lathe.

 

You did that with a sabre saw and a hand file?? Incredible..Tell Santa you want some real tools and build an Anti matter Warp Drive . It should be real easy with a plasma cutter and a lathe to go along with your talent.

Coming along nicely, cant wait for the electrical and plumbing.

Michael S.

 

Sanford and Mike,
No lathe, no drill press. I made that wooden stand to support the axle and trued it with a $20 vintage Starrett dial indicator set purchased from an estate sale last month.

To get the OD of the plate even after cutting it out with a saber saw from 1/4" plate, I made a another small plate that sandwitched it onto the side of the grindstone on the harbor freight bench grinder. I used a file and took a small amount off the edge to eliminate the saw marks and true it up.

I should have been a blacksmith.

Greg

 

11/25 update:

Today I completed the ABS controller mount. Since this is going on a completed car, I wanted to minimize brake line re-routing. This was best accomplished by placing the ABS unit directly under the master cylinder. The brake lines going to all 4 corners converge here so replumbing was only a matter of making some new lines from the MC to the ABS and making some short lines from the ABS output to the nearest union (which is within a foot) of the MC.

The controller is mounted about 1.25" off center toward the F-panel to clear the PS pump and provide a cleaner route from the MC into the lower ports of the controller.

I posted a comprehensive update of todays work on the buildsite starting here:
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/123897/photo533.html

Here are a couple photos of the completed ABS bracket that will mount on top of the 4" main tube.

 

don't get it too close to the exhaust.

 

This shows the location when I was mocking things up without a mounting bracket a few weeks ago. It's a good ways from the headers.

 

Clarification Question

Greg,

Nice Work, and thanks for sharing.

I have a question (probably a bone head, but...).

There are three identified ports on the top of the unit and you stated that the input lines from the master cylinder go into the bottom.

Where is the fourth output line?, shouldn't there be one to each caliper?

I'm probably missing something obvious, but I still would like to know.

Now that I'm asking, you said that the unit you have is self contained, which I would want. Is there a span of years (or other appications, like small Ford cars or pick-ups) that would have a unit that would work as well?

Thanks, Rick.

 

Rick,
The 94-95 Mustang ABS is 3 channel and self contained. It controls the front brakes independently and the rear brakes combined.

Greg

 

Something to look at, the step up part transitioning to the flange may vary some in length with different brands of axles.

 

Excellent work Greg!!

 

Today I fabricated that aluminum plate installed on the top of the Knoni shock mount. The plate has two cutouts for the OEM front sensor cable. The mount that secures the cable to the IFS bracket is the EOM cable support, shortened. It's being help in place for tack welding by the C-clamp. The cable makes its way to the controller along, and wire-tied to, the hard brake line. The actual sensor installation was plug and play with the SN95 front spindles.

The bracket on top of the Koni shock mount is identical to the one on the driver's side except it's riveted to the side not the top of shock support. I couldn't access the top due to the radiator hose being so close. A C-clamp holds the cable support for tack welding. The sensor wire runs on the front-side of the X-brace along with the AC hose and horn wiring harness. It meets the drivers-side sensor wiring and together they run down to the control unit.

Here's a photo of the controller and the special bracket sitting on top of the 4" main tube underneath the master cylinder.

Buildside updated for today, here: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/123897/photo541.html

Greg

 

Update on wiring for ABS.

Completed the ABS controller and mounting bracket wiring by adding a 12-pole and a 4-pole terminal strip.

The 12-pole terminal strip connects to the wheel sensors, switched 12V, brake light switch, dash ABS lamp and ABS diagnostic connector under the dash.

This 4-pole terminal strip connects to the constant 12V through a Max Blade 60 Amp fuse contained in the black box. The other two connections are the electronics and motor grounds.

Early in the build I included a removeable footbox lid. That came in handy since the ABS requires 5 additonal wires run into the box and under the dash.

I also ran and secured all the ABS wires to the frame and right up to where the controller mounts.

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/123897/photo551.html

Greg

 

First class Greg! Very nicely done man... Cant wait to hear your impressions!

David

 

Thanks David. I used terminal strips instead of Molex connections so the wires are easily accessible for troublshooting and reconfiguring if required. I will cover the connections with something to keep dirt and water off when done.

Here's a great video of how the ABS controller works. It's a dynamic proportioning valve in the first mode of operation, limiting hydraulic pressure from the MC to the caliper when wheel decelleration is detected. In the second mode, it lowers the caliper pressure and returns the fluid to the MC. It does all of this many times/second.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z21wlgDkItg&NR=1
Greg

 

Greg, did you also watch the clip on MC. ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ji3RjoyQkk&feature=related
Maybe that will help. Seems to imply that the MC are different on ABS cars?

 

Yes that could be. I'm using a 2001 MC which was used with ABS. Did you notice the video showed the front brakes were connected to the secondary (front) port?

Greg

 

Today I completed the brake line plumbing. The ABS controller requires bubble flares and the unions require inverted flares. The Eastman brake line bending pliers worked great but left small circles where they grip the tubing.

All the wiring is done except to install the ABS indictor lamp and the defeat switch under the dash.

I reverse-plumbed the MC ports, feeding the front brakes with the front ports as Whitby's does. I figure this will either have no effect, or reduce the tendency of the front brakes to lock too easily, or really mess up the brakes

Placing the ABS unit under the MC on the completed car kept brake line changes short and simple.
Looking at this photo, I see I need to adjust that one line going to the left front brake because it doesn't quite line up perfectly parallel to the line above it.

Greg

 

Finally warm enough to reslove ABS controller failure

It's finally above freezing today so back to the ABS. I have the system completely installed, filled and bled. On power-up, the ABS controller runs a self check which tests for supply voltage and the connections of the four wheel sensors. If everything looks good, the red ABS light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out. The ABS is ready for operation. If an error is detected, the light stays on and the ABS does not function. Grounding the orange and white wire at power-up makes the ABS lamp blink a series of codes which identify the error number/defect.

My initial controller indicated a problem with the left rear wheel sensor continuity. I verified ALL the wiring, power, and sensors. There were no problems found which led me to believe I had a bad controller. To verify this, I bought another ABS controller and bench tested it as shown. In place of the wheel sensors I substituted 1.7K Ohm resistors. It passed the power-up self test! I installed it (electronics section only) on the car and it passed! The one saving grace is the electronic modules can be swapped without removing the hydraulic section i.e, no lines have to be removed. To double check, I swapped the suspected bad electronics module from the car back to the bench test setup and it failed. Not only does it fail, it is virtually dead. No relays click, only the lamp stays on. In diag mode, the lamp blinks random meaningless codes.

More info on the buildsite starting here: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/123897/photo563.html
Greg

 

Very informative as always Greg, thank you.

 

Finally took the car out today for the initial ABS road test. First, let me state that swapping the ports on the MC so that the rear brakes are fed by the rear port has no effect on bias. Likewise, removing the adjustable proportioning valve installed in the rear circuit (dialed to max rear pressure) has no noticable effect.

I drove around the neighborhood in second gear letting the car warm (hasn't been driven in 2 months) testing the brakes just to make sure they felt normal. I pulled over and ran diags on the ABS computer and the old error codes stored from the bench testing were gone and the computer returned a code "12" which means there are no errors at all.

That is really great news and means all the wheel sensors (even the rear ones I engineered) are working in spec and the computer is happy with the signals.

Now for the real test. I braked hard from about 35 mph, downhill, and the fronts started to lock up and slide. There was no ABS action from the system whatsoever. I suspect the ABS system is not seeing the signal from the brake light switch that tells the ABS to monitor and correct for wheel lock-up. Another round of diags returned no errors (12). Tomorrow I will check the brake light switch path and report back.

For reference, here are the monitored parameters and associated codes the computer provides in diag mode:
12 - system ok
19 - anti-lock control module
22 - right front valve
24 - left front valve
26 - rear valve
31 - right front ABS sensor continuity fault
32 - right rear ABS sensor continuity fault
33 - left front ABS sensor continuity fault
34 - left rear ABS sensor continuity fault
41 - right front ABS sensor
42 - right rear ABS sensor
43 - left front ABS sensor
44 - left rear ABS sensor
61 - pump motor/pump motor relay fault
63 - voltage supply interruption
69 - vehicle battery voltage less than 10VDC
78 - ABS sensor frequency fault

Greg

 

Greg, thanks for all your hard work. Following this thread I ordered a 94/95 Mustang ABS system from MPS Auto Salvage.

Thanks again.

 

Adrian,
You are welcome. Maybe tomorrow I will resolve this and have working ABS.

At any rate I'm going to know way too much about it!

Greg

 

Made negative progress today

I figured out why the ABS is not working. To recap, the first ABS control unit had a bad elcectronics module that would not run the self-test. I replaced it with a module from a second controller that passed self tests on the bench. The car currently has the electronics module from the second controller mated with the hydraulic module from the first controller. Drove the car and had no working ABS, but also no codes or errors. Could not find anything wrong with the electonics or wiring.

Today I ran a some bench tests on the second controller's hydraulic section only. I connected 12V to the ABS pump motor and it ran. I connected 12V to each solenoid valve and they clicked.

I did the same thing to the first controller's hydraulic section (in the car) and the motor will not run or draw any current. I beat on it with a hammer and nothing. I tested the 3 solenoid valves and the right-front solenoid valve draws current but does not click, so it's stuck. Tapping it with a hammer did not free it. SO THE HYDRAULIC SECTION FROM CONTROLLER 1 IS BAD AS WELL AS THE ELECTRONIC SECTION THAT CAME WITH THAT CONTROLLER!

Now I'm faced with the hassle of draining and removing the lines and pulling the hydraulic module out of the car. What a PITA. I will have to put controller 2 electronics back on its hydraulics, bench test it, and re-install it in the car. The entire controller 1 is a total POS. I'm going to contact the ebay seller.

Here's the inside of the defective electronics module from controller 1 and the water that poured out when I opened it. I guess the seller pressure washed it before the auction.

The buildsite is updated for today's progress if you want to know more...http://www.worldisround.com/articles/123897/photo565.html

Greg

 

That's a freak'n bummer Dude. Hopefully the seller is a stand up guy. You are one hell of a diagnostician. Frank

 

Thanks Frank. I've been fixing things I know nothing about for 37 years.

Greg

 

Greg, can you please let me (us) know how to perform the test
on the solenoids? Mine is already installed and I am not sure if my
ABS is actualy working. I suspect not.
Please be a bit detailed, as I am not a good diagnostician like you.
Thanks in advance.

 

Bench testing the 94-95 ABS controller.

Greg, can you please let me (us) know how to perform the test on the solenoids? Mine is already installed and I am not sure if my ABS is actualy working. I suspect not. Please be a bit detailed, as I am not a good diagnostician like you.
Thanks in advance.

If you want to bench test the solenoid valves, connect 12V as shown. You don't have to pull the electronics module off the controller, just unplug the conector to the solenoids. When the solenoids operate, an audible click is heard.

To test the pump motor, connect +12V to the vertical post. The torx mounting screw MUST be threaded into the vertical post to make contact with the motor bus. Connect the negative side of the 12V to the stud on the back of the motor. The stud is not a chassis ground, it's isolated from the chassis and the motor case.

If the elecronic module is still mounted to the hydraulic controller, pull the 15-pin harness connector and the square 4-pin power connector adjacent to the solenoid connector. You can safely apply +12V to the head of the torx screw below the pump relay that connects to the motor input. The relay will provide electical isolation and prevent your test voltage from backfeeding into the circuit board.

The other torx screw to the left of the motor drive connection is a gound and can't be removed.

You can set the unit up as shown and for the purpose of the self test, substitute 1.7K Ohm resistors for the 4 wheel sensors.

On power-up, the ABS controller runs a self check which tests for supply voltage, the connections of the four wheel sensors, and the conection of the 3 solenoid valve coils. If everything looks good, the red ABS light comes on for about 2 seconds and then goes out. You will hear 2 relay clicks. The ABS is now ready for operation. If an error is detected, the light stays on and the ABS does not function. Grounding the orange and white wire at power-up allows the ABS lamp to blink a series of codes which identify the error number/defect. Code 12 means there are no self-test errors. Any old, stored, errors (up to 3) will remain in memory for some time after the car is driven over 30 mph at which time only new errors will be stored (if any are detected).

Here's the complete ABS wiring diagram with several changes I noted on both wiring harnesses I have. The full-size image is too big to fit this page so go to the link and select "view full size image" for a better look: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/123897/photo549.html

Greg