I copied what others have done with success...1" master and 7/8" slave.

 

I have a 1" master and a 7/8" slave as well. I measured the throw and found that it could be possible for the slave to over extend but was able to address this by adjusting the pedal to reduce the amount of possible throw which ensures that the slave stays within its operating limits.

The feel with this setup is excellent and the clutch disengagement starts at ~1/3 pedal push.

 

I had some air in the line and just bled it out. Now the clutch disengages, but it is near the bottom of the pedal throw. It was moving the slave cylinder 1/2". Now it moves it 3/4" which appears to be just enough, however I would prefer it disengage earlier in the throw. I have the largest m/c in this Wilwood short configuration. I'll see if Mike has a smaller slave and if that will even work.

 

Both Titlon and Wilwood make them in this design, but you would have to put an elbow on the back of it to work.

 

I'm running a Tilton bearing with a Wilwood master and love it. Feel OEM.

 

i am running a 13/16 wilwood MC and a 7/8 cnc slave mine is a modified Forte set-up "push"
you can check out what i did in my profile albums.
are you using a push or pull slave
i would also check the fork and make sure its engaged or installed correctly on the TOB and pivot
HTH

 

Leo, the fork and t/o are installed properly. It is Mike's push set up for an FE engine (mounts on the engine b/h flange, pushes towards the back, with the fork pivot on the driver's side.

Here are a couple of pictures:

Clutch m/c is partially hidden on the right of this picture:

 

so this looks like a pull slave, but it pushes from the front
where is the pivot on the fork on the drivers or passenger, sorry not familar with the FE bell housing
this looks like a pull set-up, i am guessing the angle of the fork in relation to the pivot <<may need adjusting.
looks like that setup is got a lot going on.
the slave too can be very hard to bleed it needs all the air out i suggest a power bleeder, sometimes if it is possible you can dissconnect the slave hooked up to the hose and raise it above the MC and gravity bleed
HTH

 

7/8" master, 7/8" slave.

Just the right amount of travel and pressure.

 

3/4" slave and 7/8 master....perfect, but I am running a 408 and a TKO

 

Dan, that's what I have now with a 427w and TKO600. Now that I got the rest of the air out it works fine with perfect pedal pressure, I just wish it fully engaged closer to the top of the pedal throw.

At the end of the day, this may be a moot issue. I drove the car last night down the street and back. It's a man killer! Of all the cars I've built, I've never driven one with this much raw power and aggressive exhaust tone. I love it!!!

 

When I designed my system, I made sure I had adjustment on both the master and slave cylinders and thier linkgage. That way, I could custome tailor the pedal and slave movements.

(I forget the diameters of my components, but they follow the same general idea of the different sizes. My slave is a push they works with the Ford bellhousing and fork, and mounts on the trans side.)

 

tossed the cable/quadrant and the broken Wilwood clutch pedal and went with the excellent shopping list forum member Darren suggested on here- 1 in master 7/8 slave I love it!!!!!

Bob

 

Slave Cylinder Stroke

I made a simple Excell spreadsheet to calculate the slave cylinder stroke with various master cylinder bores. Input the bores on both the master and slave cylinders and read the stroke from the graph. If anyone wants a copy, PM me. It may take a couple days to reply as I'm Leaving Nigeria tonight.

James

 

Mark,
I had this problem a few months ago and through trial and error, found the Tilton 1" master worked fine and cleared up my problem (since Wilwood doesn't make one in that style in a 1") I have the same pedal box as you and I found that the Tilton mounts in the same manner as the Wilwood unit it replaced and even uses the same mounting holes as the Wilwood. I was also able to use the same extended push rod that I received with my parts originally from Roger.

Bob

 

Thanks, Bob, that is excellent news! I read your 5 page thread on this that gave me hope for an easy fix. Is this the one you used and does it have the same pushrod size and thread of the Wilwood? If so, fantastic!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-76-1000/

 

Thanks, Bob, that is excellent news! I read your 5 page thread on this that gave me hope for an easy fix. Is this the one you used and does it have the same pushrod size and thread of the Wilwood? If so, fantastic!

Tilton Engineering 76-1000 - Tilton 76-Series Master Cylinders - Overview - SummitRacing.com

FYI, Wilwood makes a similar one...
Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-10375 - Wilwood Combination Remote Mount Master Cylinder Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

This video might help with the bleeding process and it's very cheap. I have a real (not cheap) reverse bleeder kit and it's worked well so far.

Skip to about 3:30ish for the bleeding procedure.

Ooops, html is off so here is the direct link

http://youtu.be/wdf--suwqw0

 

Don,
I believe the Wilwood unit has to have the reservoir mounted on the top as in the picture or the adapter, which is plastic, mounted in that location. On the Kirkham and my original style chassis with the floor mount pedal box, this puts the plastic parts much too close to the headers.
The Tilton unit has a brass cap on top and will accept hard or braided stainless lines (my choice) so there less chance of a heat induced failure, IMHO.

Mark,
Yes, that is the unit I used. Keep in mind that I have a pull type 7/8" slave cylinder. I can't remember what type you are using, (push or pull) but at 7/8" bore, it should work similar to mine.
The pushrod I used on my Wilwood transferred directly over to my Tilton with no problems. They are built quite similar, simply pull the rubber boot off the master, pull the "keeper" and remove the rod, then install the longer rod you already have and install as before. Almost too easy.

Bob

 

Perfecto! Thanks, Bob.

 

Have 7/8" push slave that came with Forte's kit.

Tried a 7/8 Wilwood master.. too much pedal travel required.. hit the back of the footbox before the slave pushed its full travel.

Considered a 1" master, then opted to skip that and move up to a 1 1/8".

Bingo.

Slightly stiff, but not uncomfortable and the travel is much shorter for full slave engagement.

TKO600 FYI.

Details/Pictures Here:
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/2488679-post344.html

 

Been there, started with 3/4", not enough. Stepped up to 7/8", still not enough. 1" M/C was just right. Good luck.

 

Been following this thread for a couple days and considering this as a winter upgrade for my Coupe. So we've decided a Tilton or Wilwood 1" master is the hot setup now what about slave cyl., what brand and size? Im running a T5 BTW.

 

This is what I used-

Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-1333 - Wilwood Slave Cylinders - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Bob

 

I have Mike Forte's slave, nice stuff.

 

This is what I have - came with Forte's kit... works great.

Push style.

CNC, Inc. - Slave Cylinders

SERIES 305 Push Style

• Non-corrosive piston.
• Total-seal rubber boot.
• Equipped with 3/16" standard American brake line fitting, Metric available upon request.
• This push style slave cylinder can be used with any CNC pedal assembly that includes slave.
• Hard anodized.
• Stainless steel piston.
• 7/8" bore.
• Maximum travel 1 1/8".

 

Another option for the slave...DIY
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/266353-slave-cylinder-bracket.html