i installed my 2003 gt donors 4 channel ABS and the stock PBR calipers and rotors with sbc green stuff pads.. Not sure I like it, when auto crossing i feel it prevents lockup, but on the street it does some weird things, like the inside front wheel on a corner starts to lock up at speed. then there's the issue of one caliper freezing on ( see my brake issues again!!! post) It may be only my set up or my bleeding procedure or my wiring -which was done by Roger Stine. So I'm not a solid supporter of it since I dont really have confidence in it. Karl

 

I think you can somewhat rule out wiring if it's not throwing codes. However, if a wheel sensor is miswired to the wrong brake input (LF swapped with RF) it could do some crazy things by pulsing the wheel that's NOT locking.

"like the inside front wheel on a corner starts to lock up at speed." You mean while braking and turning? Does it pulse the inside wheel to prevent locking?

"then there's the issue of one caliper freezing on" Do you have enough clearance in the brake rod to the MC to assure some free play in the pedal? Maybe your caliper is bad and hanging up.

Another thing that causes one wheel to always lock first is uneven 4-corner weight distribution.

Greg

 

Abs system???

What is the best ABS system to install in current build MK4?
I have the chance to get the complete ABS system out of a Tbird for $40.00 I kind of blew it by not getting it when I got the complete IRS for $40.00 at a U-Pull It auto recycler.
The local Ford dealership do not have parts for the Tbird but was kind enough to print the pages of the complete ABS for the Tbird for me. Now I know what parts are needed to be pulled from the donor.

 

What year Tbird. What year is your engine. These will influence which ABS you consider.

Greg

 

Both are 1997 year. ABS still on the vehicle. My cobra build is the MK4 with a new 351W stroked to 427 IRS and have the alum center section with 3.55 gears. Transmission is a T56 tremec 6 speed manual set up for the 3.55 rear.

 

Is the 1997 ABS stadalone or does it require a Mod motor computer to work? That would be the limiting factor. If it's stadalone you could use it with your setup.

 

It has a ABS computer in the trunk and goes through the computer in the engine compartment. A lot to remove to get to everything. What would be a better alternative?

 

The 94-95 controller (what I used) is standalone. It works with SN95 front spindles which have the tone rings and sensors. I'm almost positive the tone rings on the 97 Tbird will work with the 94-95 controller. Someone who has used it needs to confirm.

Greg

 

I stopped by my local Ford dealership and talked to the tech on the ABS issue and he printed up two pages on the ABS unit for the 95 Mustang and said that is about the only year and type with a stand alone ABS unit. Is that what you are running and are you still happy with the system? Does it use Hydro boost?

 

In general, whenever you are bleeding an ABS-equipped vehicle you can do so exactly as you would any other vehicle - stroke the pedal to pressurize the system, open a bleeder, close the same bleeder, and repeat. This does not change whether you are pressure-bleeding, vacuum-bleeding, or manual-bleeding. Just follow the same steps you normally would for a non-ABS vehicle and you're most of the way there.

Operative Word: Most

However, some ABS devices have their own internal reservoirs (Bosch ABS5.3, for example) that are not a part of the primary brake circuit and are only opened to the rest of the circuit when the ABS is active. Now, if you just bled your system per the above technique and never again cycled your ABS, you would be fine. However, as soon as the ABS cycled - even for a few tenths of a second - the "old" fluid (which was never bled because it was hidden) would be dumped into the primary circuit. Not the end of the world, but you want fresh fluid everywhere, right?

The 94-95 Stang (Bosch) might fall into this catagory. There is no diagnostic port to allow for ABS cycle. To remove the potential for old trapped fliud it is necessary to invoke the ABS and then rebleed. Not a bad idea to assure clean fluid and no chance of bubbles trapped anyplace.

Greg

 

more:

For the 2002 and earlier Mustangs without Traction Control, the ABS valve block or pump and motor assembly does not require any special bleeding procedure. For the 1998 and earlier Mustang ABS systems, there are NO Special Procedures or Considerations in bleeding the system.

Again, this is only for the 1998 and earlier Mustangs. If you have a Piece of JUNK ABS system in a t-bird, then consider shoving that whole system up the engineer's >>>>. For my Old's, with a Delco VI system, I used a bi-directional ABS controller to home the system when I did a caliper change. For a Delco VI system, you "may not" need to. However, there are many systems that you have to!

For 1999+ Mustangs, with Traction Control, you SHOULD use a bidirectional controller when the ABS controller, MC, or any line between the two the Master Cylinder is replaced or opened. However, NO MUSTANG requires any type of ABS (or ABS/Traction Control) control when just the calipers or soft lines are replaced. Again, for those with traction control, the MC MUST NOT GO DRY.
Again, this is for Mustangs only, every ABS system is different! All t-birds have POS systems that are POS and they must also be controlled if you look even crossed-eyed at them.



The Mustang, Corvette, NSX, MR2, etc, have the great fast Bosch ABS systems.

Directly for the 1998 Ford Service CD section for the Mustang.
Anti-Lock Brake System Bleeding
Service or replacement to the ABS valve block or pump and motor assembly does not require any special bleeding procedure.
Follow manual or pressure bleeding procedures.

 

2002+ Mustangs Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)


NOTE: The following procedure only needs to be performed if the 4-wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been installed new or if the HCU lines have been opened.

Special Tools:
Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS)
418-F224,

New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester
418-F052, or equivalent scan tool
NGS Flash Cable
418-F120 (007-00531) or Equivalent


Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap (2162), and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) with the specified brake fluid.
Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear bleeder screw (2208) and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.
Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal (2455), tighten the RH rear bleeder screw. Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw, and disconnect the waste line.
Repeat Steps 2, 3 and 4 for the LH rear bleeder screw, the RH front disc brake caliper (2B120) bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, in that order.
Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash, and follow the scan tool instructions.
Repeat the system bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/brakes/bleeding.html

 

ABS Module Location

It is nice to hear that so many people have put ABS in their cars. Would everyone chime in with where they located the module?

I do not want to mount it in front just behind the front x-member. Where else have you been able to mount it and what were the benefits and problems with where you chose?

Thank you,
Jason

 

Would everyone chime in with where they located the module?

I do not want to mount it in front just behind the front x-member. Where else have you been able to mount it and what were the benefits and problems with where you chose?

Thank you,
Jason

I mounted mine on top of the 4" main tube right underneath the master cylinder. I chose the location to keep brake lines short and simple and to hide the ABS as much as possible without moving it to the trunk. The trunk would be great spot but the brakes lines would be long. Not an engineering problem, just a lot of work on a finished car.

Check out my thread in the main forum. Photos of the module on page-2.
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260335

Greg

 

Greg,
Are you aware of any 4-channel ABS modules that are as simple to install as the 94/95 3-channel?

What would the install be like for someone with IRS? Can I use the 94/95 module and sensors with the rear tone rings on the halfshafts?

Been looking but haven't come up with anything...

 

No but I've not thouroghly investigated all the 4CH controllers. IMO all of them interface with the engine computer. Some builder have used the 3CH with IRS and SN95 fronts without issue.

Greg

 

Mine is from a 1997 cobra 13" front and 11.6" rear and a in car adjustable bias control on the rear line. It is in line before the ABS pump unit. I also run a more aggressive rear pad than front, when there is a bit too much rear bias the car just wiggles a bit in the rear without drama and I just take a bit of bias out of the rear and the car stops straight. The car stops as fast or faster than anything else I have ever driven. I would not want to go without ABS and another big benefit you will never flat spot your pricey race tires.
Good luck,
Todd S.

 

Is your ABS a stand alone unit or did you need to hook up a engine computer to run it?

 

The '94 / '95 Mustang unit is a 3 channel unit that is stand alone, just battery power to function, not hydro-boost.