I used a Powermaster from Jegs. The wiring harness had a provision for this. A good rebuilt unit Napa will will run about 1/2 the cost, I had a spare from my 93 Lightning that I used as a tester it is larger than the power master . Very generally speaking they all will have 2 posts the large gets 12v from the battery or junction block if you use one, the small one is the switch wire from the ignition switch. You will have some small fusible links in the wiring and you will need a wire to power up the alt consult the harness manufacturer.

 

Here is where I put mine on my Mk3. I have seen guys put them om the bracket for the motor mount also. I used a mini starter with a solenoid on it but deciede to use a second one for ease of attaching wires. It's a big debate here about 1 versus 2 but 2 worked for me. My mini starter went out and I just replaced it with a stock Ford starter. Worked fine. HTH

 

I used a Ford Racing mini starter and two solenoids. I have a Ron Francis harness so I didnt want to eliminate the second solenoid because I would have had to extend the wiring down to the starter. It was more convenient to put the second solenoid on the firewall centered behind the engine. The wires reached there just fine and it looks pretty clean. I have a Breeze front mount battery so I just ran the power wire to the starter directly and then another from the starter to the other solenoid. I didnt see any difference between going to the firewall solenoid and back to the starter or making the connection at the starter. Made for a clean installation and it works perfectly.

Mike

 

Solenoid [FFR Roadster]

"Why two solenoids? When Ford upgraded starters with integrated solenoid switches, elimination of the now redundant remote-mounted solenoid would necessitate a re-engineering of all wiring harnesses; a less expensive option was to simply retain dual solenoids pending a later model redesign."

 

Hi-Torque Powermaster XS has been a good one for my car. It has the solenoid built in.
I still have the remote solenoid, as Don mentions, for locating other wires needing a 12v hot connection, but you could use a junction block, and skip it all together.

Whitby Motorcars -junction block

I wired my remote solenoid in such a way that it triggers the starters own solenoid. I used a wiring method that apparently prevents starter run on, (which has occurred to some builders), if the starter is wired directly.

 

Ok...time for wiring and frankly I don't want to use the FFR solenoid. I understand that there are some starters out there that have the solenoid built in. I know that I will have to get wiring from the FFR unit to the starter anyways, so here's the question-

What is a good high torque mini starter with a built in solenoid?
How/ where did you run your wires/ wiring from the RF harness to the unit?


Please post pictures... where you located your FFR solenoid as well as pics. if you spliced in and just ran to the starter!

Thanks-

Andy

Ford has an excellent (PMGR or permanent magnet, gear reduction) 'mini'starter) that they started putting in Mustangs in 1993. They did (and still do) recommend using the remote solenoid in addition to the built-in one on the starter although you won't find one on a 94-up Mustang. That's because they integrated the relay function into the new wiring harness, not because they didn't think the relay/solenoid was required.

Here is Ford Motorsports instructions for wiring the starter. you can see it's relatively independent of the harness except where the switched 12v start signal comes in from your ignition switch via the clutch safety interlock :

The link Don posted has the other pics and info you need to connect to your Ron Francis harness. It WILL work without the remote solenoid/relay! But a lot of the advice you are getting is from people who've built and recognized the value of the accessible junction point the remote solenoid provides.

Sean