Rust Removal

Go to your local hardware supplier and purchase an assortment of wire brushes that attatch to your electric drill motor. These 5.0 motors had no rust protection from the factory, and most are very rusty. I used the wire brush on drill method, followed with a good lacquer thinner wipe down, and then coated with a high quality paint. The results were good and have lasted well.
Good Luck and Best Regards, Phil

 

After cleaning as Flip mentioned, NAPA has some great rust preventative that's a wipe on, wipe off type, works really good. Then paint. I used that on my heads also, and I'm just leaving them plain, but they look good with the NAPA stuff on them and they won't rust.

The heads aren't painted, but they provide a nice contrast with the engine color.

 

I used a pneumatic die grinder and dremmel both with wire brush attachments.

First I taped up all of the openings!!! Little wires will come off the wire brush attachments. Use eye protection! I used rubbing alcohol to keep the rust-dust down.

Then I cleaned it with brake cleaner and rags. Next some engine block primer and finally engine block paint!

It worked out great for me, good Luck!
Rich

 

How about Naval jelly-brush it on,let it sit about 10 minutes,hose it off w/ a garden hose.May take a couple applications but virtually no work involved!

 

Take a look at the POR-15 products. They have stuff that will get the rust off, and is non-toxic. It actually smell like Naval Jelly... I have used it on other unpainted items likw spindles, and it is excellent. Of course I did this after using the wire wheels and such. Harbor Freight and Northern Tool have the wire wheels.

 

As others have stated use wire wheel on drill after removing everything you can and then taping all the holes. Then wipe down with paint thinner, spray (aerosol can) with whatever brand of rust converter you can find locally. This will kill the rust you cannot remove and forms a good base for the paint to stick to. After that dries, use dupli-color or other brand of engine paint.
To make it look very nice for very little$ take all your bolts and wire wheel them., Just hold them one at a time with vice-grips and hold them up to a wire wheel on a bench grinder. It will clean them very well. Then very lightly spray the bolts with the rust converter and then spray with a detailing paint such as Eastwoods products. You can use semi-gloss black, dull silver, spray grey, detail grey etc. It makes the whole engine look fresh and better than new. It takes very little money a little work but is well worth it. Big difference between an engine that looks like it came out of an old car vs. one that looks better than new.

John

 

As others have stated use wire wheel on drill after removing everything you can and then taping all the holes. Then wipe down with paint thinner, spray (aerosol can) with whatever brand of rust converter you can find locally. This will kill the rust you cannot remove and forms a good base for the paint to stick to. After that dries, use dupli-color or other brand of engine paint.
To make it look very nice for very little$ take all your bolts and wire wheel them., Just hold them one at a time with vice-grips and hold them up to a wire wheel on a bench grinder. It will clean them very well. Then very lightly spray the bolts with the rust converter and then spray with a detailing paint such as Eastwoods products. You can use semi-gloss black, dull silver, spray grey, detail grey etc. It makes the whole engine look fresh and better than new. It takes very little money a little work but is well worth it. Big difference between an engine that looks like it came out of an old car vs. one that looks better than new.

John

 

Actually, POR-15 likes rust. It sticks to it better than it does clean metal.
Lightly wire brush the block to get the loose stuff off and POR-15 it.
Save your elbow grease for something else.

d

 

I second the use of METAL READY from Por-15, it took the rust off and left the surface ready to paint, just make sure you use a good grease/oil remover first. Used the Duplicolor engine enamel with ceramic to finish.

 

Metal Ready! That's the stuff. Cleans up with water and is non-toxic. You apply it with a foam brush or spray it on. Wait 15 minutes, wipe it off with a wet rag a few times, let it dry, and paint away! Keep it handy, you will want to do the same with your pedal box, and other unpainted pieces.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice!! Time to go get the materials I need!

 

Can you only get Metal Ready from their website or can you buy it in a store??

 

Yep:

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=MR&dept=2

they also have an engine painting kit. I have bought the semi-gloss black, black, and red caliper kits, and they have everything needed from start to finish.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=EPK&dept=7

Just make sure it is at least 75 degrees, or the paints are like glue.

 

This is a bit off the subject but I'm not sure why you are pulling the heads. In stock form, I have never had a head gasket fail on a small block Ford. If the lower end doesn't need to be rebuilt, I would leave the heads alone. I was in the same situation and decided to replace all of the gaskets and seals so that I didn't have any leaks - I pulled the pan, intake, timing cover, water pump, and replaced the front and rear seals. If you pull the heads, you will probably want to get the valves ground, then on to the lower end for rings and bearings. Just my 2 cents - trying to get you on the road faster. Good luck! Here is my engine/trans