I've been watching this Eddie. Two starters, same results? Something isn't fitting correctly. Try putting some clay on the snout. Then putting the starter in position, push it in as firmly as you can. Then take it out and look at the clay for signs of it hitting the bellhousing.
I'm thinking that it is barely hitting it. When you tighten the bolts you're not actually pulling the starter in all the way putting a bind on the mounting tab. When you apply power to the starter it pops the tab.

 

Eddie,
Are you sure the starter is sitting flush with the block plate and not cocking at an angle? It doesn't seems like one ear would break off from rotational movement.

Bill G

 

Eddie,

There are two starters for the Windsor, a long snout and a short snout. Typically one is for an Automatic and the other for a Manual. At least from the pictures it looks like you need the starter with the longer snout (Automatic). From what I see the starter is engaging only the front of your flywheel causing the starter to deflect on contact. I had a problem not unlike yours last week.

Justin

 

Eddie, look at your picture. What are the marks left of about 2 3/8's? Possibly from the snout hitting the back of the bellhousing? This may be the problem.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b70/HotStuds69/STARTER6.jpg

 

the thru-holes on the block plate are much bigger than the bolts going thru them, so the block plate may be off location. it seems the block plate hole is what is actually placing the starter motor, but if anything, according to my photo, it may be placing the motor CLOSER to the flywheel. my flywheel clearly has marks on the edge of the teeth only. (looks even more clear in real life than in the photo)

now that my timing is set, i'd rather have a secure mounting flange like the aluminum one on this starter, but it has an integral solenioid:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PWM%2D9603&N=115&autoview=sku

speed2much: not sure what you meant by your Q

justinu: you can't see it in the photo, but the flywheel teeth are worn across the whole edge, so i think the bendix is indeed going in far enough

 

Get the right belhousing. Cheers Richard.

 

Richard: why won't my bellhousing work? according to the part # it's

E = 1980's part
3 = year ending in 3 revision
Z = mustang
R = manual transmission

i have a world class T5, which i understand wasn't available until '86, is this right? so do i need an '86 and up bellhousing?

dv/dt has an '87 donor and a bellhousing that says E6ZR, but our pictures look the same.

 

Eddie, the marks in the circle. What are those or what caused them. Could the starter have made those?

 

i just crawled under the car and the markings are just imperfections in the casting - there are lots of them and that one just showed up from the flash. it is WAY behind where the starter would stick in

 

Ok, so much for that theory.
Back to your original question. I got my starter from Carquest. It is for a 1970 Mustang, 302, automatic.
I have two part numbers that I pulled from my receipts. One is for the same application with a standard trans. I'm not sure which one is the automatic number but I know for sure that is what's on the car and it works with no problems.
GEL 3124
GEL 3132
I think the one for the automatic is 3124. But not positive. Sorry.
Oh and I do have a world class T-5 with a factory bellhousing. I got them both from Fortes.

 

i just bought the same starter only 30 minutes ago. it says DL3132 i guess for Duralast 3132. i took dimensions with a carpenter's square, marked my starter shim, put the shim on the other starter, and they are the same to within 1/16".

i wonder about what Richard said. i have a world class transmission which didn't come out until '86 i was told. but then why would an '83 bellhousing fit so well?

what is a factory bellhousing? mine has the ford logo stamped on it

 

Eddie,
Don't know if these will help you, but I figured I'd give it a try....I have the flywheel, 157 tooth FMS unit, old starter, but it's the stock unit correct for this bell housing, and the bell housing, I don't mind helping out......
Ben

[ April 25, 2006, 11:35 PM: Message edited by: Ben Smith ]

 

Are you sure you have the correct block plate? Are there differances in thickness? This is the only other item I can think of.

Are you sure? Just because the bolt pattern is the same doesn't mean the thickness of the block plate is the same.

Anyone know if auto and manual use the same one?

 

the block plate for my a/t donor was two pieces, an upper and a lower. sure of that.

ben: thanks x1000 for the offer and the photos. i just wish i could understand why i am having a problem. if we can't confirm why my setup doesn't work, i may be wasting time pulling the engine.

i wish i could somehow remove the bottom part of the block plate only, then i can see more of what is going on.

 

Eddie,
Manual trans plates are one piece......
Ben

 

The '83 bellhousing should be exactly the same, so I doubt that's the problem. My bet would be an incorrect starter...

Brian

 

Get an Hitachi gear drive starter. My Ford starter broke in my BB. The Hitachi worked flawlessly

 

Eddie, here ya Go.......

Ben

 

i'm off to bed, but maybe we can do the measuring thing once more - accurately. can't believe i didn't think of this before. the measurement is the "square" and maximum distance from the teeth to edge of the opening. it is EXACTLY 1 3/4".

 

Has the ring gear been replaced? Is there a shoulder it should but up against or a distance it should be pressed onto?

 

My vote is still the flywheel... Good luck, man... I hope I'm wrong.

 

http://prwonlinestore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=258

why is my flywheel wrong?

 

Eddie; I compliment your patients, I would have gone mad by now. This should be so easy, and I can only guess mixing parts and not using a complete setup from a donor has gotten you in this fix. I've gathered from watching this drama unfold that you are not real familiar with engine assembly, and I am no expert my self, but I'd bet that one of the 3 components here is not a match, and when you get everything matched up all will be good. Good luck.

 

Eddie,
Not all Ford starters are created equal. Take yours to a NAPA store and compare to a 244-9227. This fits 1983-1991. I don't know what you are asking for but it appears the starter you are trying to install fits 1968-1973. Never go by the manufacturers number stamped into the slide of the housing. These parts are mixed and matched in the re-manufacturing process.

Tom

 

Eddie,
Back to what speed2much and I have been saying about the difference in man vs auto starters... are you positive the starter is dropping all the way in to sit hard against the block-plate/bellhousing? With no bolts in, it should feel solid and not "rock" on the block plate.
To be extra sure, you can measure the exact diameter of the opening in the block plate with a pair of calipers and measure the diameter of the pilot of the starter. If the starter diameter is .010" - .015" bigger than the hole in the block-plate (like I had the problem with previously), the starter will hang up on the block plate and will not sit flush.

By the way, # 3124 is the solenoid-less starter for a 70 Mustang with an auto trans like we both used:
Autozone Starter

This would be my next step, if I was you. Try the 3124. What have you got to lose?

Steve