Yes, there is. But it differs depending upon the head type. I'm not sure if Ford offers any crate engines with pedestal mount rockers, but to be safe it would be best if you gave us the engine part number...

First thing I would do is pull the valve covers. If it just started making noise it could be a loose rocker or broken spring or broken rocker stud or pedestal bolt...

HTH...
Mark

 

Mark:

Thanks for the comeback.

Yes, I plan on pulling the valve cover and making a preliminary check. The motor is the: M-6007-XE3M 5.0L.

Research has given me mixed readings on the adjustability. Any X-pert help is appreciated!

 

The XE3M crate engine comes with the GT-40 Turbo Swirl (X303) heads. These are pedestal mount rocker arm style heads. The only valvetrain adjustment that can be made is with a shim kit under the rocker pedestal, and those are usually only needed if the head has been decked. Technically it is a non-adjustable valvetrain...

Let us know what you find when the covers come off...

HTH...
Mark

 

Check for an exhaust leak. Sometimes that sound can fool you into thinking valve train problem. Header to head or leak at the collector.

 

Dr Stebo:

Great minds think alike!

My first throught was exhaust leak. Checked tightness of header and collector bolts. Found nothing (yet) to indicate exhaust leak. That would have been too easy! Even thought it could be a "spark" jumping, but see no signs of that and motor does not "miss".

Mark:

I have pulled both valve covers (Have not rotated engine yet), did a quick visual. All visually looks good. The rollers that have slack seem to all "feel" the same, no sign of excessive "looseness".

Here's a little more history that might help:

1. Motor has about 3000 trouble free miles. Allways run fairly easy, no track or racing time.
2. Since new, I thought I could detect a slight valve "ticking" on driver side bank. Nothing that casued any alarm, and as Dr Stebo sugested, I had not ruled out an exhaust leak as being the cause. After all, I am runing FFR headers! :yes:
3. Friday I replaced my water neck (Had a leak develope last time out).
4. Re-started car and heard the now louder "valve ticking" sound.
5. Did not drive, except far enough to pull around and back into garage.
6. Motor seems to run fine. No "missing" or "loss of power" is noticable.

At present I'm still mystified! :confused1:

Any ideas?

Thanks for all your help!

 

This is no help to you but I have the same engine and have always thought the valve train was noisy. Mine's no louder at 6,300 miles than at first drive. There always seems to be a couple of valves that are slightly louder than the rest but again, nothing jumps out at you.

Greg

 

Greg:

I know what you mean, but this "noise" is louder than anything I have heard before and sounds more menacing than before.

 

Remove the covers one at a time and start it up. If you pace the heel of your hand on the push rod end of the rocker while it's running, you can determine which rocker is loose. It may have a worn fulcrum or just simply a loose rocker.

 

Okay, here's what I've done so far:

1. Checked all header bolts for tightness. Tightened where necessary.
2. Completed visual inspection for possible exhaust leak. None found
3. Removed valve covers.
4. Completed visual inspection of valve train. All looks good.
5. Removed spark plugs. All are burning good, clean, relatively even in color.
6. Checked torque of roller arms. All good. None loose.

My plan is to reassemble and see if I can further isolate the noise, if it is still there.

Any ideas are welcome.

 

Lifter noise

FFR5163,

Does the noise get louder when you give it the gas? Most lifters won't change noise level when your on the loud pedal. Exhaust sound will increase and if it's a "tick" at idle, it will get profoundly louder when youe accellerating.

HTH

Doc

 

You need to check the push rods on the "base circle" of the cam....That is with both valves completely closed....There should be no up and down movement of the push rod, and you should be able to easily turn the push rod between your thumb and forefinger....If there is up and down movement, you need to make sure that both valves are completely closed, and tighten down the bolt until there is "0" movement (lash). Then another quarter turn...If the push rod is still loose, then you will need to replace one of the components (rocker, push rod, lifter, valve spring and keeper).

 

lookk at your valve covers

This sounds to easy but check the inside of your covers to make sure there is no strikes by the rockers and the springs I know that the springs have a chance of hitting where the indents are made to accommodate the valve cover bolts (look close) and ask me how I know!

Sam

 

Loose Rocker

There are two ways to rule out a loose rocker.

1) While running (messy) slip a .030 feeler gauge under each rocker, when the noise goes away the offender is ID'ed.

2) Find TDC, then rotate the pushrods for #1, there should be a noticable drag to rotation, it should not rotate freely. Then rotate 90 degrees and work your way down the firing order.

3) Adjust by removing shims until there is a drag to rotation. Any Questions or need more details just pm me.

Rudy

 

Thanks for all the good advice guys.

First, for Sam, it is not the valve covers (I am running the "tall" Ford covers).

I have checked everything that I can without taking things further apart. There is no up and down movement in the roller arms or the push rods and the push rods rotate freely. I have not started it up again so I don't know the status of the noise as I write this.

I'll report the results later in the week when I have more time to throw at it again.

 

Hey Bob, I was not referring to the rockers hitting the top of the cover I was meaning the springs hitting the sides of the valve covers where they are concaved at the bolt holes the "tall covers" are no wider than the short ones you should look on the inside of the valve cover on the sides near the front and rear bolt holes .
(look close)
Sam

 

Thanks Sam, but the problem is not the valve covers. That would be too easy!

 

Another idea......get a length of rubber hose - perhaps 1/2" id (whatever you have) and use like a stethoscope. While running at the rpm where you would hear the sound (I specifically did not say ticking), place one end close to your ear and the other close to various moving motor parts (be careful) .. including water pump., ect.

You should be able to localize the sound this way......

The fact that it got louder after replacing the water neck is curious -

 

The fact that it got louder after replacing the water neck is curious -

That has me baffled as well. I didn't do anything that should have any affect on the valve train...or whatever! :001_unsure:

 

Here is a set of instructions on adjusting the valve train that I found useful.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2

 

Just a note to bring closure to this thread in the event anybody with a similar issue comes across it in the future.

Proving that two heads are better than one, fellow forum member Mike Dey came over on Saturday and we convinced ourselves that the noise was an exhaust leak. This afternoon I removed the driver's side header and found that the header gasket had decayed and worn almost all the way through at the top of the #6 cylinder exhaust port and was close to coming through on the #7 cylinder.

Already have the new header gaskets, just waiting for the new Total-Loc header bolts that I ordered so I can put it back together.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Bob, Thats good news. What type of gaskets were they? Did you get better ones and if so which ones? Thanks for posting the solution as well. Many seem to forget that part. Frank

 

Bob, Thats good news. What type of gaskets were they? Did you get better ones and if so which ones? Thanks for posting the solution as well. Many seem to forget that part. Frank

Frank:

I don't remember what gaskets I originally had (if I looked though my old receipts I'm sure I could find it), but it had a "paper" look to it when I took it out. I'm putting in PERCYS SEAL-4-GOOD HEADER GASKETS, which they claim will never fail and in fact are said to be re-usable. I ordered the Total-Loc header bolts based upon a recommendation that I found on the forum.

 

That was my suggestion. Noise like that can sometimes fool you as to really where it is. I'm glad you didn't unnecessarily tear into the engine too far. Re check your header bolts often. If they back out it can cause the gasket to blow out and leak.

 

Timely...

In the last month or so, I also noticed a 'ticking' coming from the Driver's side. I did the stethoscope thing...all areas sounded, about the same. When I get up to about 2200 RPM it stops. I was thinking valve adjustment. As a hedge, I just bought a set of RemFlex header gasket. www.remflex.com Remflex make sense; Vs regular gasket...although more expensive. I'm going to put them gaskets on first...see what happens. All gasket bolts were/are tight. Will report back in a week. Thanks. Walt :001_smile: :silver:

PS: In that I thought I'd have to take the valve covers off, I also bought a set of new covers and SS studs from MAX...may as well put them on.

 

Hi Bob, glad to hear you figured it out. Guess you won't need to speak with Avik !

Jon

 

Hi Bob, glad to hear you figured it out. Guess you won't need to speak with Avik !

Jon

I hope not for this...but I do need a dyno tune (hint)!

 

Bob,
Thanks for posting your results....I'm really surprised that a stethoscope or small service mirror would not show this up.....Good that you found it.

 

Update...

OK. New Remflex header gaskets are installed..."still keeps on ticking". I will pull valve covers next week and look for a loose push rod. Always open for additional thoughts. I have never used RemFlex before...the gaskets are about 1/8" thick...and you only torque them to 12-16 lb.ft of torque. No re-torquing either. Thanks... :yes: :silver: