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EdwardB�s Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

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239K views 500 replies 84 participants last post by  George905  
Friday I received my second 50 pound shipment from Wilwood. The rear brakes. This is a milestone on two fronts. First, I now have the complete set of long awaited Anniversary Edition Wilwood brakes. Second, it’s the last item on my shortage and/or missing list for my kit. I am now officially 100% complete.

Just a couple words about this subject. I am a huge fan of Factory Five products (obviously) and have the highest respect for the company and their products. They’ve allowed me to do something I’ve always wanted to do, and have a final product that I’m proud to own and a blast to show and drive. But I think they have room for improvement in the order fulfillment and delivery process. I fully realize the Anniversary Edition has some unique parts plus it is (I think) the first customer deliveries of the new 2015 Mustang IRS setup. So some shortages and delays maybe could be expected. But I was honestly pretty surprised when I saw the length of the backorder list when I picked up my kit, then added some items that were missing or just plain not accounted for. Everyone at FF was super friendly and helpful during every phone call and/or email. But it’s been six months since I ordered my kit, and four plus months since I picked it up. IMO that's really not acceptable. Especially the extended delays and missed promises for the Wilwood brakes. And they require 100% payment up front before taking delivery on anything. Hmm... But now it’s finally complete. I’m confident this will soon be a distant memory, and forgotten entirely once the build is completed. Owning and driving one of these will do that to you. But especially for first-time customers, this all has to be pretty disappointing. I spent my career doing multiple business continuous improvement projects. I would suggest this is something FF may want to focus on. Premium freight alone has to be significant. OK, enough about that. And I don’t want to turn my build thread into a rant on this subject. For me it’s done. I know there are others still waiting for a number of parts. Hopefully you too will soon get to this point.

After completing the front brakes a couple weeks ago, the rear brakes went together very quickly. Again, the parts and instructions from Wilwood were top notch. Everything fit perfectly, and exactly like the instructions. I was interested (and maybe a little nervous) about the bracketry for the 2015 Mustang IRS knuckles, but it was fine. Not much to do except post some pictures.

The rears also use a separate rotor and hat assembly that is bolted together and optionally safety wired. I chose to do the safety wires like on the fronts. Getting a little better at it I guess. At least a little faster. Took me about an hour for each rotor and hat. The rotors are the same diameter as the fronts, but slightly thinner. The hats are different too. Different offset and don't require the adapter rings for the hub.


Shims are used to center the 4-piston caliper to the rotor, and also the height of the caliper on the mounting bracket. All was easy to set up just like described in the instructions. The rears use a separate parking brake caliper. So it’s quite an assembly when completed.




I routed the e-brake cables per the instructions, and looks OK to the rear mounting holes. I’m going to look for alternatives to going under the 4 inch tube to the handle. Still can’t get my head around that, even though I know many do it and it’s fine. The instructions don’t specifically say where to mount the chassis end of the flex hoses, but I could kind of see them in some of the pictures and ended up (I think) in the same locations. This should provide easy enough access to the brake lines.


I had to drag out one of the 18 inch rear wheels to check the clearance and also just see what it looked like on there. Clearance all good. They are huge though.



Earlier this week, I pretty much finished up all the cooling lines, vacuum, and PCV hoses on the front of the Coyote. Here you can see the crossover from the inlet to outlet of the heater connections. Ford Racing recommends if not using a heater (I’m not) to connect the two with a 5/16 inch restrictor in the line. I received the Gates quick connects mentioned in my last post and made up the hose. Wasn’t sure what to do for a restrictor. I ended up with a 3/4 inch long steel bushing from the hardware store that I drilled out to 5/16 inch and put in the hose held by the clamp pictured. I also completed the hose from the water neck to the top of the expansion tank. This is the one I mentioned in my last update that wasn’t available anywhere from Ford. Easy enough to make up, except that the water neck connection was 5/16 ID, and the tank 3/8 ID. So searched around and found an adapter and it’s done. I also made up the PCV hose to the bottom of the Spectre intake on the DS, and decided to re-do the PS with the same hose and placing the JLT Performance oil separator a little more neatly.


Here you can see the connections I made to the Spectre intake. The top one is for the CMCV system, and the lower one (just visible, sorry) is the DS PCV line. I used connectors from JLT Performance mentioned in some other Coyote build threads. They are aluminum, and fit into a rubber grommet in the intake. I used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV when installing them. Seems to work perfectly. The factory connectors clip right on.


All those hoses and such look pretty messy. No way to make things very pretty. That I can figure out anyway. Looks a little better with the cover in place.


Just a few more details to wrap up on the engine. Mainly power steering and then a final decision about battery location. Then it will be back out so I can finish installing all the aluminum panels. Right now doesn’t appear that I will have any space issues in the front of the engine. But it’s sure busy in there. Onward!
I have the same wilwood rear break setup but my e-brake spring seems to be too weak to fully disengage the e-brake. Did you experience this?
 
Edward, I absolutely love the dash work you do on your Factory Fives. It looks like you use some scrap aluminum angle to secure the dash to the top tube. Is that right? How are you attaching the angle to the dash and then how do you secure it to the top tube? On the bottom of or top of (hung) the tube?
Thanks. I prefer not to put screws through the front, first because of appearance and second because they can get covered up with the body. Strictly a personal preference. I've seen several builds do something similar as this, so can't say it's 100% original. Came up with it during my first build and have repeated for the others. It's not exactly scrap aluminum. It's 1 inch right angle aluminum from HD or Lowes (don't remember...) cut into 1-1/2 inch lengths and trimmed to 3/4 inch wide on the dash hoop side. I attach them to the dash with flat head screws before the covering is applied. Just make sure to fill the holes dead flat or they could picture through to the dash. I place them where they're accessible from the bottom. I rivet 10-32 nut plates to the bottom of the 3/4 inch tube, and hold in place with 10-32 cap screws. I've not had to take a dash back out (yet!) but it would be easy enough to do if necessary.
What do you use for lower dash support? These lower mounts look thicker than .040 and seem to have curved edges to reduce flex. What distance do you have between dash and crossbar for these supports?
 
Did you install the PCM above the PS footbox instead of through PS firewall only because you have a glove box?
I am planning no glove box but just a heater and am wondering if PCM can fit below heater through PS firewall.
I also may install wiper motor but not sure yet.
I am in AZ so I am concerned about heating of the PCM if left fully in the engine bay.
 
Mustang vent tube:
I ordered the part you recommended but have yet to install it. I looked at the end with the rubber right angle boot and then looked at the vent hole in the differential. Does the right angle boot just push into the vent hole? It almost looks like a threaded tube is missing which would thread into the differential vent hole then push into the right angle boot. Thoughts?
 
1) Regarding your heated seat install, I am installing the same "warmseats" package and noticed that the battery connection uses 18g AL wire. With max current of 6A, it seems like this shoul be 14g. I plan to install my switches in the dash like you did so when routing to the dash I am wondering if I should use to 14g wire.
2) When at the high setting, the back and bottom seat heaters are in parallel causing the full load current of 6A to run through the switch. At low setting the heaters are in series and only draw 1.5A through the switch. 6A seems high for that little switch. Thus I am also considering putting a relay in series with the yellow wire which drives both seat heaters when they are in parallel at the high setting.
-thoughts?
 
-Thank you for the quick reply, it seems you just saved me from having to do a lot of extra work!
-My interpretation from your recommendation is that when selecting wire gauge, I should focus on voltage drop and not worry about fusing current.
-Below I summarize my voltage drop calculations and would appreciate knowing if I am off in left field:
-----------------------
18G AL resistance/length=75mOhms/ft (note: AL is 1.65x CU)
distance from passenger seat to fuse panel=7ft
load current=6A
voltage drop on power=(75e-3)*7*6=0.45V
voltage drop on power plus ground =2*0.45V=0.9V
18G-->16G drops this by 37%-->0.57V
16G-->14G drops this by 37%-->0.36V
-----------------------
-Thus, 18G results in 12-0.9V=11.1V across seatwarmers
-while 14G results in 12-0.36V=11.64V across seatwarmers