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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EdwardB’s Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

*** 5,000 mile report posted 06/19/019. Direct link: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/6064898-post491.html ***

Time to get rolling on another build thread. After a 1,680 mile round trip from Michigan to Wareham, as of August 6, 2015, Mk4 #8674 is now sitting in our garage. This is a 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4, number 03 of 20. This will be my third Roadster build, but a significant first. This is the first build where I am the original owner and taking delivery directly from Factory Five. The first two were purchased from their first owners as partial builds. The Mk3 had a good head start by a pro builder, so a great introduction. The Mk4 was only several months started, so almost like a new build. But time to go it alone from the very beginning. Plus Michigan gave me a really tough time the last go around without my name on the Certificate of Origin. So not going there again.

I thoroughly enjoy driving the completed Roadsters, going to car shows, and cruising whenever I get the chance. Absolutely a blast. The social aspect is great too, with our local club, the extended forum and Factory Five community, etc. But I also really enjoy the whole learning, planning and building process. Each time the builds were completed, I found myself missing the building. With my retirement earlier this year, it didn’t take long to realize another build was something I wanted to do. After some studying (and soul searching) decided it had to be another Roadster, and just to change it up a little spent quite a bit of time planning a 289 FIA build. I was ready to order one during the 50/50 sale several months ago. But then the 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4 was announced, and I was immediately hooked. I called and ordered it while at a rest stop in New York on the way to this year’s Factory Five open house, just minutes after it was made available for purchase. The plan is to sell #7750 when the new build is completed. #7750 is in it's first driving season this year, and now all sorted out and truly a pleasure to own and drive. Frankly, I can’t imagine letting go of it. But that’s the deal, and I’m sticking to it.

So let’s get down to the new non-donor build. The planned use is almost exclusively street cruising. The overall theme is a classic look and feel with completely modern mechanicals and premium driving. Because of the fully optioned anniversary edition, many aspects are already defined. Some of the specifics: Grey powder coat chassis, white powder coat on underhood panels and footboxes (intended to simulate the fiberglass of the originals), balance will be grey powder coat to match the chassis. 2015 Mustang IRS with 3.55 cast iron center section, FFR front spindles, front and rear sway bars, 13 inch front and rear Wilwood manual brakes, Wilwood pedal box with hydraulic clutch, engine driven power steering with 3.0 turn rack, upgraded Koni double-adjustable shocks, 18 inch FF Halibrand style wheels, new Coyote engine with footbox mods to maximize space, Stainless headers, GAS-N side pipes, TKO600 trans with Liberty’s shift mods, leather Roadster seats, Lizard Skin insulation, competition dash (tentatively) with glovebox, Speedhut gauges with GPS speedo, seat heaters, Breeze front battery, dropped floor in trunk, wipers, bumpers and overriders. Undecided about a heater. Haven't done one yet, and haven't missed it. But maybe it's time.

That’s probably enough for now. I’m planning a number of the little mods and touches learned from the first two builds, and maybe some new ones along the way. Notably absent will be a sound system. Spent a lot of time on that with my last build, and find it not very practical. One of my goals is to have a really clean Coyote installation. Not easy with all the wires and hoses. I’ve seen some really great examples. I’ll see how I can do. Color is still undecided. I’m kind of stuck on red, and could easily do that again. But looking at some other options as well. It will have stripes. I’m going to take my time. This isn’t a race. Plus even though I’m retired and have more time than before, I also have other things going on. I’m expecting a roughly two year build, like the first two.

There are 19 items on the backorder list. Many are minor, and won’t hold anything up. A couple others (front spindles, IRS parts) I’ll be watching closely. I’ve completed my inventory. I had a few missing and wrong parts. But not bad and I’m expecting will be quickly addressed. Probably my biggest observation, and I won’t say much at this point, is that I think I might be one of the first people to tackle the new 2015 Mustang IRS. I saw it in person at the Open House, and it’s really impressive and I think will make a great build. But it’s early for FF too. I’ll report more about it in the build thread as progress is made. I do already have the center section, knuckles and hubs on hand and ready to install. Talked about that in this thread: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/512881-2015-mustang-irs-components-so-begins.html.

Going through everything, I'm generally pretty pleased. The windshield is now marked as made in Taiwan. The last two were from China. I wonder if they've changed vendors? It seems decent quality with everything nice and tight and clean. The new wheels are noticeably improved over the previous ones. The new tooling and new vendor has produced some nice parts. But those 18 inchers are huge! We'll see how that all turns out. The chassis looks good. The grey powder coating isn't real glossy, but it's nice. It seems they may have done some extra work prepping it before PC. I don't see much weld spatter. At least in many of the obvious places. Having a whole box of white PC'd panels before doing any fitting or drilling is different. I'll need to take care of those. The body looks good. All the panels match up OK at the parting lines. The new front quick jack mount brackets are interesting. I'll still do my usual grommet installation, but now even more to hold things up. I've got the newer style front UCA's. In general, interesting to see how they continue to make interim improvements to the same version. All good I think.

In the true spirit of no pictures it didn't happen, here are a few of pics of the delivery process.

From another forum member who saw my car in final assembly. Mine's on the RH side:

On the rack and ready to go:

Parking with the big dogs at a rest stop in New York on our way to Factory Five:

Loading onto the frame cart:

In she goes:

Me looking a little sweaty, while my wife does her best Vanna White impression. Factory Five posted this pic on their Facebook page:

Safely back in Michigan, ready to roll back out:

Yes, we used every inch:

Home in the garage:

Just a few boxes. All are in the basement now:


Here's the new IRS chassis setup, before anything installed. I suspect many will be interested to see this:


Here is a slideshow of all the pics taken during the delivery process, if you want to sit through them all: Delivery Slideshow by edwardb123 | Photobucket

I’ll take the body off and start dis-assembly of the rest of the panels next week, in and around Woodward Dream Cruise activities. I’m going to store the body off-site this time around, rather than having it on an elevated buck like my last two builds. I won't miss the head bumping and sore back working under that thing. I’ll get the frame up on the 2-post and start plugging away. Stay tuned for much more!
 

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I'm looking forward to this.

I have really enjoyed following your last build, you do great work on the car and writing the build thread. Keep up the great work.

John
 

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Giddy up and go Paul! I'm looking forward to this build. Followed your last one and I got some geat ideas from you. Cars are fun!!

Ed.
 

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Congrats on the 20th! Two in the garage, that is nice. I'll be following your build as mine with start just around the corner and being a newbie I have a lot to learn.
 

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Really looking forward to watching your new build Paul as I'm just wrapping up my first Mk IV Roadster #8442 Thank you for all the detailed posts with #7750 It's been a great help for me.


Rick

F5R #8442: MK4 Complete kit , 331 Stroker , T5 , 3.73 Posi 3-Link , 15" Halibrands , Goodyear Billboards
Ordered 8/22/14 Delivered 11/7/14 First Start 3/9/15 First Go Cart 3/14/15
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-8442-Build
 

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Paul,

I too followed your last build and am looking forward to this one since I am about to start mine too. Hint, hint; I know it is an extra step and effort, but you can never provide enough detail :001_smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hint, hint; I know it is an extra step and effort, but you can never provide enough detail :001_smile:
Be careful what you ask for. You know my motto, never say in 5 words what you and say in 10 or 20. :001_tongue:
 

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Looking forward to this (again) also.
 

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new Coyote engine with footbox mods to maximize space, Stainless headers, GAS-N side pipes, TKO600 trans

Notably absent will be a sound system. Spent a lot of time on that with my last build, and find it not very practical. One of my goals is to have a really clean Coyote installation. Not easy with all the wires and hoses. I’ve seen some really great examples.




Another Coyote/Stainless Header convert. I should be getting royalties from Ford and Stainless Headers from all of the positive comments I've made about this combo since I built mine in 2012. A word of advice...Plan on a tune. Not a generic tune from a guy on the internet. Put the thing on a Dyno and tune it. Determine ahead of time if you are planning to make any mods to the engine. Whether its an intake change, a mild blower, or whatever. Make the changes then take it to a reputable tune shop that specializes in Coyote tuning. The HP gains and the amazing runnability will be well worth the cost.

I was recently on a weekend outing in Whistler, British Columbia, with mostly American Cobra guys from Washington State area and a few Canadians. I had the only Coyote. Everyone else had small or big blocks and some guys were pushing as many ponies as my Coyote (490HP). The Coyote ran as well at sea level as it did at 4,500ft elevation. No hestitation. You can get 5 hours out of a tank (FFR - OEM mustang tank) and don't need to be looking for a 94 octane Chevron station. You will be SO impressed with this set up Paul. I'm sick with envy.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
First Update

The first week has mainly been ongoing preparations for the build. I've heard back from FF regarding my backorder list and several missing or wrong parts. Dan assured me all were taken care of. I also heard they have now received some (all?) of the 2015 Mustang IRS parts. So now the waiting begins for boxes to show up on my front porch. It will be a little while before I run out of things to do, but I'll be happy to see all that stuff arrive.

Meanwhile, first order of business was to get the body off, onto a body buck, and stored out of the way for now. The last two builds I put together quite elaborate elevated body bucks, then ended up cutting them down and giving them to the painters thinking I would never need another body buck. Oh really? So this time I tried to keep it real simple. I have a frame cart (visible in some of the earlier pictures) so I thought why not use that as a removable base for the body buck? Overkill, but double duty would be a good thing. So I made a real simple frame on 24 inch centers to rest on the frame cart, and then just hung everything off of the frame. I used 7/16 inch ply instead of OSB because it's much lighter (plus I had a piece laying around). With the body buck done, used the SE to take the body over to our storage unit. I have it for our SE and also store the car there in the winter. There's enough height, so I hung the body/body buck in the back up against the ceiling. The SE still fits. Barely.

One hint, while I'm thinking about it. There are a number of threads where guys are asking about their dash placement on the 3/4 inch dash hoop. Also about the clearance between the cockpit lip around the dash. I've been one of the advocates to actually temporarily place the body on the chassis during the build to get this all sorted out. With my body off-site, plus not the easiest to get up and down, I took the opportunity to check all that out while the body was still on from the initial delivery. I measured and made notes of exactly where the body is sitting in reference to the dash hoop. I also used a Sharpie and marked a line on the body lip 1/4 inch from the dash hoop. This gives me enough information to mount the dash with confidence, and also for the initial trim on the body during final assembly. I suspect the body will be in a slightly different position (mainly height) with all the aluminum and bulb seal in place, but this is still good enough to get me started.

With the body up and out of the way, I got the frame up on the 2-post. This is my first build from the start with the 2-post. I'm going to like this! Now for some pics.

Taking the body off for the first time, using my hi-tech ceiling hooks and pullies. What can I say? It works.

Body buck frame using frame cart for wheels, when needed:

Body buck all done:

Hung from the ceiling at our storage unit. For peace of mind, as an afterthought I added some 2x4 braces to the floor. Almost for sure not needed, but will help me sleep at night. You can see what's left of the 2015 Mustang IRS pallet. Hope there's some Craigslist/eBay value there.

Just fits: (SE needs a bath...)

Now the fun begins:


In the true spirit of all good projects deserve a little spilled blood, I had a bit of an incident yesterday. I was working hard and fast trying to get the buck done and then away for the evening at a Woodward Dream Cruise event. In the process, I was working inside the body with it on the buck. I stepped out going to the next thing and managed to catch my foot on the door sill. While trying to catch myself and thinking "Don't break the body…" I proceeded to face plant myself right onto the steel door sill of the frame sitting next to the body. A really hard hit and scared myself to say the least. I immediately went for the ice and surveyed the damage. Man was I lucky. Got myself in the cheekbone and gave myself a bloody nose. But no teeth, eyes, nose, whatever. This morning I woke up plenty sore and with a beautiful black eye. And no there won't be any pictures. Moral of the story, we all really need to be careful and go at the right pace and stop when we get tired. I was lucky this time.

OK, enough of that. Next update will be installing the front suspension and steering rack. I don't have the spindles yet, so can't be a complete job. But I'll get started. First step will be installing the first pieces of aluminum, the F-panels. First sighting for those white powder coated pieces. I've got some white painted rivets and will try those.
 

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Thank You Edward.

I am one of the Stealth Five, living in Maine. I will pick up my car at the end of September. Your past builds have provided a wealth of information. You being the first to start the Anniversary Model will be the guiding light for those of us several months behind you.
Needless to say, I will benefit immensely from your experience as you install the new IRS.
Just completed a copy of your chassis dolly and body buck. Wish I could install the two post lift you have, but the radiant floor heat I have in my garage nixed that idea.
Are all the panels forward of the dash powder coated? Any down side of just having ALL the panels PC? Seems to me that a slight radiusing of the panel edges would be smart prior to PC. Your thoughts.

Rick in Maine:confused1:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are all the panels forward of the dash powder coated? Any down side of just having ALL the panels PC? Seems to me that a slight radiusing of the panel edges would be smart prior to PC. Your thoughts.

Rick in Maine:confused1:
The pictures I posted with the body removed is exactly how it came from Factory Five. Only those panels showing were mounted at the factory. Normally, most of the rest of the panels (firewall, footboxes, F-panels, etc.) would all also be mounted for shipping, and all would be raw aluminum with no coating. Instead, for the anniversary edition, the parts not pictured were powder coated white and shipped all wrapped and boxed. Never mounted. I'll be getting into all those shortly.

For both of my previous builds, I've PC'd all the panels. When all is said and done on this one, they will all be PC'd as well. Some white and the balance silver/grey to match the chassis. Lots of discussion about this, and various ways to finish the panels. Or leave them unfinished as some do. But for me, PC is the way to go. The panels are all laser cut at FF, and generally the edges while not radiused are clean and smooth. Nothing additional really necessary IMO.
 

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The pictures I posted with the body removed is exactly how it came from Factory Five. Only those panels showing were mounted at the factory. Normally, most of the rest of the panels (firewall, footboxes, F-panels, etc.) would all also be mounted for shipping, and all would be raw aluminum with no coating. Instead, for the anniversary edition, the parts not pictured were powder coated white and shipped all wrapped and boxed. Never mounted. I'll be getting into all those shortly.

For both of my previous builds, I've PC'd all the panels. When all is said and done on this one, they will all be PC'd as well. Some white and the balance silver/grey to match the chassis. Lots of discussion about this, and various ways to finish the panels. Or leave them unfinished as some do. But for me, PC is the way to go. The panels are all laser cut at FF, and generally the edges while not radiused are clean and smooth. Nothing additional really necessary IMO.
I did not powder coat panels on my MkIV build and after 23,000 kilometers I wish I had. I'm finding it difficult to keep the raw aluminum looking nice. The road grime and fine dirt is such a pain. There's always the next build. My kids are both doing FFR kits ( MkIV and a 33 HR). I was considering buying them a powder coat gun. The small stuff is easy to do and most aluminum panels can fit in a decent size oven.
 

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x 2

I have really enjoyed following your last build, you do great work on the car and writing the build thread. Keep up the great work.

John
The detail in your build log was a big part of my decision to "jump straight into the deep end." Subscribed.


John
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Front Suspension

Time for my first real assembly progress update. You guys asked for details, so you're going to get it. :001_tongue:

Over the last few days, I've completed the front suspension. At least as far as I can go without spindles. One of the items on my backorder list. First was the two F panels. These are part of the set of aluminum pieces powdercoated white as part of the Anniversary Edition. It's kind of a satin white. Not glossy. It's unusual is all I can say at this point. Will be interesting to see the total effect of all the engine compartment white PC. With the parts already coated but not test mounted, drilled, etc., it's a little different. I'm trying to handle them carefully, use tape, etc. to keep from marking them up. First order of business was to put a row of 10-32 nutserts in the back edge for the front splash guards. I've done this on my previous builds, and really like the serviceability. Another hint is to cut a 5/8 inch (or so) square from the top back corners. A similar cutout will be made in the front splash guards. This provides room for the convolute tubing and wiring along the outside edges of the hood surround. BTW, nice touch the PS didn't have the Mustang top radiator hose cutout, then requiring a fill panel. I used white silicone from HD and white rivets from McMaster. I tried to use a light touch with the pneumatic rivet gun, but the painted rivets still get marked up a bit. They look OK though. You can also see I put a bunch of painters tape on the exposed chassis powder coat in the area I'll be working for a while. Trying to keep from scratching up the PC, like I may have done on the last build. (!)


Next I hung the lower control arms. Nothing much to say there. Once the PC was cleaned out of the holes, they bolted up fine. Note that I put a little red dot from a paint pen on all bolts that are tightened to the torque spec. Just a visual reminder to make sure I do them all. Once the build is done, the paint can be easily removed with a little lacquer thinner if needed. Then I put in the Breeze PS rack, the upper control arms with ball joints, and then the Koni shocks. The shock bolts are just finger tight for now. I figure I'll move them out of the way when it's time to bolt in the spindles.



This is another pic of the Breeze PS rack. Nothing too earthshaking here. But a couple words. I used this same 3.0 turn Unisteer rack on my current Mk4, and for my purposes (mostly street driving) it's perfect. Since I bought and installed the last one, Mark at Breeze now provides them in PC black vs. silver, and also provides them with the rack extenders and extended boots already installed. Nice. He also includes a pair of limiters, in case you need them. I'll wait on those for now to see if I need them. I installed the rack with Mark's #70634 offset rack mounting kit, which I've used a couple times before. Centering for a Mk4 is not a big issue. This one was perfect, like my last Mk4. But the bushings, in addition to being solid vs. slightly flexible, move the rack slightly forward and slightly down. Forward is good because it helps the boots clear the chassis a little better. Down supposedly helps with bump steer, although with the newer geometry of the Mk4 and FF spindles, I'm not sure that's a big deal any more. Also in this pic you can see the -6AN adapters for the PS hoses. Those are from Maximum Motorsports.


So I've had two issues so far. One was the upper ball joints. I received (like many) the Mevotech upper ball joints with my kit. And like many, they were too tight. No amount of freezing and heating did anything other than get a questioning look from my wife when I took the ball joints out of the freezer. I couldn't get more than 1-2 turns before they basically locked solid and I just wasn't going to crank on them like many have. I'm sure FF would have replaced them, but probably with more of the same. Like many, I decided to just spend the $17 each and change to Moog K772's. Well, we're having fun now. I received two very quickly from Amazon (best price) and one fit both sides perfectly, the other wouldn't even start threading. No amount of messing around changed anything. So I returned it and had a replacement a couple days later. Guess what? Same thing. Two out of three Moog parts wouldn't work. Note the one good one fit either UCA perfectly. The other two neither. OK, now I'm really frustrated. Read multiple forum posts, both ours and others, and found many guys are using Howe Racing ball joints. Yea, I know, now $60+ each. Budget? What budget? But how much is frustration worth? Received the Howe Racing 22320S ball joints this AM from Summit. Both fit perfectly. Used blue Loctite, and gave them a hefty tug while in the vise, same as shown in the manual. Then put a red paint mark that I'll keep an eye on. I'm confident they're not going anywhere though. In addition to being obviously high quality parts, they are serviceable and rebuildable.


The second issue was with the Koni 2812 double-adjustable aluminum body coil-over shocks. The manual says to install the standard Koni front shocks body UP. But the Koni instructions for these shocks quite emphatically says they are to be installed body DOWN. Something about the special valving in this shock type only functions correctly when installed down. And Factory Five does have them installed body down in their 20th Anniversary Roadster. So that's what I did. But I then realized the body interfered slightly with the LCA. In fact, if you look closely at the pics FF has on their website of their 20th Anniversary Roadster, you can see divots in the shock body from the interference. I decided not to duplicate this feature. Using a cut-off wheel and then a small air belt sander, I removed the interference from the two sides and back and confirmed clearance with the shock at full extension and compression. It's not a lot, so I'm confident the strength of the LCA is not affected. Here are three pics. Before, after trimming, and then with the shock back in place. Before assembling, I touched up the bare metal with gloss black POR15, which matches the black PC perfectly.




The outer tie rod ends supplied with the kit are absolutely fine, and will work perfectly. But I happen to like these Moog ES2150RL parts instead. In addition to maybe slightly higher quality, it's very likely not necessary to cut length off the inner tie rod. I used this same rack and these ends on my current Mk4, and no trimming was necessary. Also, because of the design, the threads are fully engaged and the excess goes into the pocket of the piece. No need to watch for the minimum one inch of thread engagement. I don't like changing out perfectly good parts. But these are nice and I chose them again.


Finally, something a little interesting. The 20th Anniversary kit comes with front and rear sway bars. The rear setup is clearly pictured in the new IRS announcement. But I wasn't sure how the front would be done, since I don't have instructions that reference any of this yet. But what I did notice was an extension on the front chassis tube end with two holes. Different than my current Mk4 for sure. Guess what lines up into that extension and bolts there? I'm betting this:



I wonder if these attachment points will be standard on all Mk4 kits now? If so, nice improvement for guys that want to add a sway bar and not have to do some of the mods I've seen. I received two of the pictured sway bars. They are .875 inch, from a company called Flyin Miata. For 90-93 Miatas. Is that allowed?? I have some of the pieces, but not all for where it attaches to the LCA. There are rod ends and then a bracket of some kind. More later!

I'm still waiting for backordered parts (no shipments yet…) and especially some of the major missing IRS components. I've got plenty of other things to work on for now, so no panic. Yet.
 

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Paul,

Loving the details. Since I am a newbie to building one of these, your detail descriptions are a tremendous help.

For instance the details about, "First order of business was to put a row of 10-32 nutserts in the back edge for the front splash guards. I've done this on my previous builds, and really like the serviceability. Another hint is to cut a 5/8 inch (or so) square from the top back corners." I like this along with your info about upper ball joints which I hadn't yet come across and the tie rod ends (I am glad you are also listing part numbers). If I have the same issue this helps to give me options that I know should work. THANKS.

A question for you, I notice on your previous build you replaced the UCA front linkage with AFCO 5 inch tubes in preparation on PS. Are the ones in the pictures 5" or standard from FFR for this build?

thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Paul,

Loving the details. Since I am a newbie to building one of these, your detail descriptions are a tremendous help.

A question for you, I notice on your previous build you replaced the UCA front linkage with AFCO 5 inch tubes in preparation on PS. Are the ones in the pictures 5" or standard from FFR for this build?

thanks again
Glad you find this helpful. The comment you found on the previous build about the tube replacement doesn't apply to this build. Factory Five has changed to a different UCA since my previous Mk4 build. I think a different supplier, but I don't know for sure. Regardless, the newer ones appear stronger and better made. What you see pictured here are exactly stock out of the box. For the newer UCA's, my understanding is that in order to achieve the higher caster desirable with power steering, it's no longer necessary to replace any of the tubes. But it may be necessary to slightly shorten the rear tubes. I'll address that when it's time for alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19


I wonder if these attachment points will be standard on all Mk4 kits now? If so, nice improvement for guys that want to add a sway bar and not have to do some of the mods I've seen. I received two of the pictured sway bars. They are .875 inch, from a company called Flyin Miata. For 90-93 Miatas. Is that allowed?? I have some of the pieces, but not all for where it attaches to the LCA. There are rod ends and then a bracket of some kind. More later!
Quick follow-up on these points since I received a copy of the instructions. According to the instructions, all kits made after April 2015 have the pictured sway bar attachments points on the front of the 4 inch chassis tubes. Brackets are available for kits made before that. The attachment to the underside of the LCA's is done with rod ends attached to a longer lower shock mounting bolt. Pretty straightforward.
 

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Nice to see the continued evolution of the chassis. Having a front and rear swaybars, and slightly softer spring rates would be nice for the bumper corners.

PS very nice clean build you are doing.
 
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