Ive loaded lots of very low cars and here is what we have done.

Put 4X4 or 6X6 blocks under the ends of the ramps. You should be able to use 2X12 boards about 6' long to set on the same blocks as "pre ramps". If that isn't enough, crank down the tounge jack as much as you can.

HTH
Mike

EDIT: I see that I didn't actually answer your question. 8' main ramps, extensions as described.

 

+1 on this. I have a very low race car, and we do this to get it on our trailer. It may not be pretty, but it works.

JC

 

Here are the deck height and ramp length that Larry has for his Serpent Express Trailers:

Deck Height: 18"-20", unloaded
Ramps 12" wide, slide-out, 72" long


Ray

 

You could install a power tongue jack like I have on my camper. That thing will easily lift the back end of my suburban (not off the ground, of course.)

You might be able to do this in such a way to gain an additional clearance by lowering the trailer butt.

 

Placing blocks under the rear tires of the tow vehicle will also lower the rear of the trailer. Usually some lamainated 2 x 6 's, stacked to get 4-6 inches of lift. A lot of people use this method.

 

Placing blocks under the rear tires of the tow vehicle will also lower the rear of the trailer. Usually some lamainated 2 x 6 's, stacked to get 4-6 inches of lift. A lot of people use this method.

This is the simplest answer, IMHO! There is no jacking necessary. When I first read about doing this it was one of those things that makes you wonder why you didn't think of it yourself.

You just back the rear tires of the tow vehicle up onto some blocks or ramps and the trailer tilts to a more favorable angle.

Steve

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I'll probably use all these strategies.

So Ray, Larry gets his loaded with just 6' ramps? I guess if I had 10fters made that might be overkill?:001_unsure:

Thanks, Jim.

 

Jim,

I have one of Larry's trailers and haven't had any trouble loading any of the four Roadster that I've carried. One thing I did have to do was drill a hole in the ramp and in the trailer (where the lip on the ramp rests in the trough on the trailer) and install a clevis pin. We found that when we unloaded, one of the ramps would tilt or rock just enough to lift and drop off the trailer.

Ray

 

I end up using the front trailer jack to raise the trailer front end quite a lot and then drive on up the "angled-up" trailer.

I'm currently building ramp extensions to allow me to drive on the trailer when it's level. I have a lowered corvette that's actually much more of a pain.

It's a common issue with corvettes also. You may google: (corvette trailer ramp) and see numerous homemade and commercial options, but you should not need 10'.

 

On an 18" to 20" deck height, the issue we have not talked about is a "dovetail" rear. That's where the rear 24" to 30" of the deck slopes down 3" to 4". This makes a tremendous difference and saves lifting the front of the trailer to lower the rear.

One customer had to tow a lowered Z06 a long way and used the SE.
The SE ramps are 72" standard. To give him a little more ramp, he added short 2x12's, see image:

His words:

"...I also wanted to share with you that I am trailering my 2003 Corvette Z06 inside the Serpent Express down to LA this weekend. Thought I would share some pictures of the car being loaded into your creation. You may notice I had to create just a little bit of a ramp extension due to the fact that my Z06 is so much lower and has a longer nose than my Cobra, I am certain a non-lowered Corvette would not have this problem with the ramps you provide with the trailer. My F350 really doesn't even care that there is trailer hitched up to it, the thing tows like a dream! Anyway, thanks for building such a versatile, functional and light weight trailer. " 2/14/07

 

I have a drop axle trailer made by a local company. The ramps are 5 feet long and the trailer has a "dove tail" on the last 3 feet, I have no problems loading the roadster, coupe, or now the 33 chasis. No blocks or unhooking the trailer required.
Doug

 

Make sure your trailer tires are no larger than 205/75/15. The 225/75 trailer tire is about 1.5" taller than the 205 and will raise the trailer deck. I also had to build ramp extensions from 2X12's to lengthen the ramps and keep the car from scraping at the top of the ramps.

 

I just ordered a set of aluminum 8' ramps, They should be ready on tuesday so I'll see how that works out. I think between the new ramps and jacking the front up, I should be OK.

Jim.

 

Trailer ramps

I have a 16 foot flat bed trailer with 2 inch drop axles that puts the bed at about 14 inches high when level. I have 5 foot ramps. I have had a lot of different cars on it and the hardest was a lowered C-5 corvette because of the front overhang. Usually a few 2x12's and 2x4's under the back of the ramps will get it done. I always raise the front of the trailer and the back of the rig by using the tonque jack. Leave the trailer hooked to the tow rig to make sure the trailer doesn't skate off from under the car when loading. One Time we did disconnect the trailer from the tow rig, but we left the wiring connector hooked up and had a guy in the tow rig keep his foot on the brake to hold the trailer in position.

Ron

 

Don't mess with blocks, boards and other Mickey Mouse solutions. Get one of these and you're set. http://www.tiltahitch.com/

Jim

 

Hey, that's kinda cool! I like it.
Thanks for the link, Jim.

 

Raising the front of the trailer is simple, but makes it difficult to drive a manual transmission car up a steep angle under constant acceleration, with only a couple of inches clearance on the sides and the front end.