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Brake caliper leaking

866 views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  AC Bill  
#1 ·
Noticed a bit of a wet spot under my left rear, so I pulled the caliper off, and it seems that the leak is from the pivot point, for the auto (e-brake) adjustment. This caliper is from the 88 turbo-coupe.

I noticed previously, when I was turning the piston back on this caliper, for new pads, that it was very hard to turn. Could I have damaged a seal in the process. I'm not positive how this pad adjustment mechanism works, any ideas?

Is the seal for this bolt available, and a simple replacement job, or should I just get an exchange caliper, and be done with?

Thanks, Bill
 
#3 ·
What has probably happened is the old brake fluid has congealed inside the piston. There is a ball bearing plate as part of the automatic ajuster mechanism on the back side of the piston. Once the fluid goes bad in there, and isn't conpletely flushed out, the fluid decomposes and forms hard chunks of gunk that makes it hard to adjust the piston back into the caliper. Some of that nasty, chunky old fluid has gotten to the pivot arm seal and caused your leak. Time for replacement calipers. If both of the rear calipers came off the same '88 Turbo Coupe, I would replace both of them. There are some good deals out there, but they usually have core charges, so don't toss the old ones!

Eric
 
#4 ·
Don't try it!

I wouldn't try to rebuild the caliper if I were you.
The assembly is simple in design but a nightmare to reassemble. The seal you need to replace is available in a kit but cannot be replaced unless you break down the entire caliper and have the proper tools.

Having tried it just recently, I can tell you that you will never be able to reassemble the adjustment mechanism with tools common to the average builder. A special tool (spring compressor) is needed to compress a heavy coil spring while installing a second snap ring; then, getting the external return spring onto the adjustment lever is really tough.

Beleive me, it's better to just buy rebuilt calipers. Your old calipers are worth about $50 each when you turn them in as cores. Just remember to remove the mounting brackets first. Rebuilt calipers don't come with mount brackets unless you want to pay another $25 - $40 each, however; the bolts and rubber boots the caliper slides on are available for only a few bucks. I bought my rebuild stuff at Checker Auto parts.

Make certain you use a lberal amount of high temp grease when you reinstall the caliper on the slide bolts.
 
#5 ·
I wouldn't try to rebuild the caliper if I were you.

Just remember to remove the mounting brackets first. Rebuilt calipers don't come with mount brackets unless you want to pay another $25 - $40 each, however; the bolts and rubber boots the caliper slides on are available for only a few bucks. Make certain you use a lberal amount of high temp grease when you reinstall the caliper on the slide bolts.
Good hint on that mounting bracket, I'll hang on to my old ones.

TXBLU, your probably spot on, in diagnosing the leak.

Dang, I was hoping it was simple like "remove the bolt, replace o ring"..I should be so lucky:(..Priced them out at $109 a side for re-builts. Looks like I'll have to bite another bullet..now I know why guys give up on the donor builds..:blink: