I can give you a really good deal on a really new hoist and engine stand (used twice: one lift out, one lift in - from AutoZone) plus leveler and all the chains you'd ever need and save you the trouble...

 

You need to use a 6 x 8 Douglas Fir #2 girder and provide double 2x6 trimmers at the wall line. Make sure it bears directly on the concrete stemwall/ footing and provide blocking at the top plate between the rafters. email me if you have any questions. This would be OK for 900#.

 

While Rodee's solution is adequate it is so by only 1 percent leaving no safety margin. Also the doug fir will be a special order for you. I would recommend a 1 3/4" x 9 1/4" paralam or microlam. These are readily available at your lumber yard and will have a safety margin of 64 percent. Hope this helps.

John Minton, Architect

 

Sandwich your bottom plate of the truss with two of the paralam and you will be ready to go.

 

if you use a steel I beam you could mount your hoist on a trolley and it would be much more versitile.


j

 

I'm with Reuby. Wish I did an I-beam in mine when it was opened up. Frame up some pockets and place the beam in. The steel beam shouldn't be too expensive and with a trolly you'd be in good shape. Check with Lowell Iron and Steel. I've had them deliver to Pelham in the past.

John

 

For pulling the engine/transmission the steel beam and trolley would be much more useful running the 24 foot length rather than the 12 foot width. This creates a very complicated installation however due to the weight of the beam and the need to reinforce the garage door header to receive the beam. I really can't see the usefulness of a transverse (read 12 foot) trolley for installing an engine/transmission. Therefore I would recommend staying with the much simpler and cost effective wood beam and just roll the cobra backward as the engine comes out. If you are still interested in the steel though, the sizes to support 900lbs at midspan would be W6 x 9 for the 12 foot span and W8 x 13 for the 24 foot span. Both beams have a 4" wide flange.

John Minton FFR4174

 

For those of you unfamiliar with steel, the first number is the depth of the steel beam, and the secnond number is the weight per foot. This, John's W6x9 is 6" tall (actually, 5.90") and weighs 9 pounds per foot. Thus the 12 footer weighs in at 108 pounds. Raw steel being about $0.60 per pound, it should cost you about $70, assuming you're not paying a huge premium for buying such a small quantity.

All the best,
Tag

 

You would probably be best advised to have an licensed engineer or architect take a look at your structure before doing anything just to be sure you aren't doing something unsafe. I've seen pictures of whole garages collapsing from the very same scenario of lifting an engine/transmission - which would kind of ruin your day.

 

How ya doing there Matt? Call Bill Knight. He found a good solution...

 

Todd you're killing me here. That's just too much. LMAO

Matt - Email me if you need advice with any connection details. I'd be happy to help.

John Minton - Architect

 

For what you will have invested in an I beam that long and adequate side support go buy a good quality motor hoist with a motor leveling attachment. These provide all kinds of options for fine adjustments side to side you won't get with an I beam mounted unit. As a bonus, all of your friends can use it and then they will help you with your other projects. If you still want the I beam/trolley set up to lift serious weight, mount it on a LARGE shaft CEMENTED into the floor on the side of your new bay. This allows it to pivot front to back and the trolley does the side to side. A motor hoist will handle a motor and attached trans. adequately and IMHO is the way to go.
HTH
CB

 

Sorry for the slow reply. Wow, fantastic insights. Thanks a million to everyone that posted and emailed me. Very educational. I do realize that the floor setup is a simple solution, I just don't have the space to keep it hanging around. I don't even have an immediate need but have future projects planned and since this is a brand new structure and I havn't done the insullation or drywall yet I thought this was a good time to add it even if it sits for a while. I really like the idea of the ceiling setup becuase it is out of the way and is just "there" if/when I need it.

With the info and offers to answer follow-up questions from a group with the qualifications outlined above I should be able to put something simple yet effective in place.

That is Todd, unless I could find something like the equipment you've shared above. I'll be sure to keep my eyes open Then I could just put a second garage door in the back of the bay and just wheel that thing in when I needed it!

Again, thank you all!
-Matt