There isn't one - book, CD, referance, etc. You're pretty much on your own.

The guy who developed the throttle bodies lives in Grand Lake, CO. He sold the system to S&S Automotive, in Denver, in late 2003. S&S Was running ColordoCobras.com, and building Unique Cobras to order. In late 2006, S&S got out of the performance and cobra business. The Momar system was then sold to one of their employees, Last name of Sutton, but I can't remember his first name. I think it's Chris, but could be wrong (I'm really terrible with names). Sutton now lives in Kiowa, CO. I have not seen him or the system at any of the local shows or events in a couple of years. I don't think it's being marketed any longer. You can try contacting him here: dsutton9660@yahoo.com

And that's a shame, because the throttle bodies are a real work of art. Very well designed and executed. Since they are billit alum they don't deform in high temps like some of the cast ones do. The throttle shafts are bushing-less - they'll never leak or wear out.

Some of the first throttle bottles were machined to fit a screw in type injector. Later versions use a standard Ford injector.

You can look at www.momarefi.com for some pictures of projects.

The standard computer that came with most systems was the Haltech F10. This is a fuel only system, made in Australia. It's easy to identify, since it has a red case. It really is a fine system, and workls really well. But, that system is really not designed to run a V8 - the Haltech engineers will tell you that. But with the Momar wiring harness, it works just fine. Go to www.haltech.com for latest downloads of software, and instruction manuals.

The other system was the Electromotive ECU, that controlled the EFI and a coil pack distributerless ignition system. This system is more expensive (as you would expect), but also more advanced. It is specifically designed to run 8 injectors, high or low impedance. It usually had a silver or gray case. http://www.emi.cc/

The wiring harness was custom made by Momar or S&S. I can say they made a high quality harness exactly to my specs. Fits my car perfectly. They used GM type sensors, easily replaced if needed.

As for tuning, that's the tricky part. You have to find a tuner who knows how to use the computer your friend has. I messed with my mine for the longest time, and never did get it to perform the way it should. I finally found a local tuner who was good with a Haltech. Within a couple of hours, he had it humming along like a factory car. It's so smooth and easy to drive, you'de think it came from Ford. My car is just a real joy to drive - on the street and on the track.

 

Thanks

Bob thanks for all the info. This will help Tim fine tune his new toy. I wish I could post pics of the motor. Maybe I can get Shaun to help post the picture.

Thanks again

Dwight

 

question for Bob

Bob, do you think he could change the management system? Ford EEC IV or a more common system? Something that may be easier for a local tunner to tune?

Dwight

 

Dwight's pics:

 

update

Bob,
I got an email from Tim and his Momar system has a Bigg Stuff 3 management system.

Dwight

 

Changing the management system is pretty simple. But it does require a new wiring harness. Last I heard - which was a year or so ago - they were using the BigStuff3 system as standard. So Tim's system was probably one of the last ones sold. www.bigstuff3.com But he also has a distributer, so it must be set up as fuel only.

BigStuff is still probably the hot ticket in aftermarket EFI. It has two really big advantages over the Haltech system. First, the Haltech is batch fired. That means all the injectors fire at once. It doesn't sound like it would work, but it does. BS3 is a sequential system, that fires each injector individually at the correct time. A much smoother and more efficient system - especially at low speeds. It also has a greater power potential.

Second (and this is the big one) it has dual wide band O2 sensors. It's a true closed loop system. It's also somewhat self adjusting for a great variety of situations - like altitude and weather. But, it still needs a solid baseline tune. You turn the O2 sensors off, tune the engine on a dyno, and then turn the sensors back on. After that, it will self adjust up to about 20% or so.

The BS3 system uses GM sensors. The first thing I would do is replace all of the sensors with real genuine GM parts. In my system, there's water temp, air intake temp, MAP, and TPS. That's only 4 sensors, not a lot of money. Lots of people have had trouble with the aftermarket brands, especially in performance applications.

The Momar system has a very unique problem with the TPS. Mine is on the rear of the right rear throttle body; Tim's is the same. Back in '04 we were trying to tune the system, and there was a bad throttle lag. Didn't run too well at all. Pull the sensor off, and take a look at it. Take a look at the stub of the throttle shaft that goes into the hole in the sensor. Mine had a huge mismatch. You'de step on the gas and the throttle blades would open. But the TPS didn't see small changes, so it didn't increase the fuel input. The engine bogged down and ran like crap.

I let the guys at S&S figure that one out. They found another sensor to use that didn't have that problem. Tim's should be OK, since it's a later system.

But it's easy to test for. Hook up the lap top and read the throttle position. Then open the throttle blades very slowly. The reading on the screen should match the blade opening. The throttle position on the screen should match the actual throttle position all the way from fully closed to fully open. If it doesn't, you can try adjusting it. If that doesn't work, you'll need to find a new sensor. You could also make it fit better with JB Weld Quick and seran wrap.

Next thing to do is check timing. My engine is real sensative to timing. At 34* it runs really well. Very smooth at all parameters. At 36* it starts to run bad - jerking and sputtering. At 38* it's almost undrivable. I use 10* intitial, 24* mechanical, and no vacuum advance.

Once you have those things set where they need to be, and everything is working as designed, you need to get to a dyno. EFI is very precise; much more so than a carb. The flip side of that is that it has to be set just right. Find a tuner that knows the BS3 system. Pay the money. It will be worth it.

My Haltech system is working really well. My engine runs like a dream, and makes a boatload of power. I'm going to make some mechanical changes and upgrades this winter. Maybe next winter I'll upgrade to the BS3 system.

This is my engine with the same air cleaners. I powder coated mine in translucent red.

Same engine with velocity stacks.

Here's a dyno sheet from earlier this year. Notice the two power curves. The two runs were done just a few minutes apart. The only differance is one is with open stacks, and the other is with the tea strainers installed. The tea strainers cost 100hp! I wouldn't have believed, if the proof wasn't right there. You can see how much the AFR drops, indicating a huge restriction.

 

Here's another tip. With the open hood scoop and stacks, there's a small problem at speed. As the air rushes in through the scoop opening, it sort of rams down into the #4 and #8 stacks. The back of the engine bay becomes pressurized.

Unfortunatly, the front of the engine bay becomes a negative pressure area. Cylinders #1 and #5 don't get enough air. It's moving too fast over the mouth of the stacks.

So I made this diffuser panel for the scoop opening. It's just a piece of alum with holes drilled in it. But it creates enough turbulance to slow down the incoming air, and properly feed all 8 cylinders. I'v tried it with and without. The panel is worth about 8mph on the top end. That's a lot. It's the differance between 135 and 143 mph.