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Idle adjustment on the fly?

2.1K views 22 replies 14 participants last post by  crossle45f33cf  
#1 ·
When I have my idle up enough for the A/C to run, it's too high for idling without the A/C going... anyone know of a cable that I can mount to the dash that would allow me to dial down the idle, like a brake bias adjuster would?

It would have to end with a threaded end or be able to have a small bolt brazed or welded to it....

Holly 770 CFM carb...
 
#2 ·
solenoid

Hi,
Get a fast idle solenoid for a 70's car and mount it to the carb stud, has a hot wire that you connect to the ac hot lead so that it pushes a rod to the throttle when you activate the ac, all the older cars had them.
Perry.
 
#4 ·
Many of the european cars also have a small electric valve that opens up when the A/C compressor kicks on and it lets more air into the engine. I suspect that there's a vacuum port someplace on your setup with a rubber cap over it that you could hook a hose up to from one of these valves. I know that late 70s-early 80s Volvo 240s had them.
 
#7 ·
Go with the solenoid. It is made specifically for the problem, Vintage Air sells them, and they work without any thought from you.
 
#8 ·
Thanks, guys..... how do you regulate how many more RPM's you get... or is it designed for the exact amount?

Only other draw back to that besides the price is that when running in stop and go and hitting EVERY red light, sometimes I wish I could have my RPM's up really high to kick the Alternator in to charge the battery.... when running errands on a 105 degree day, lots of stops and (hot motor) starts, it starts to take a toll on even my Ultima Battery...

Also seems like my idle varies depending on the brand of gasoline I get... or maybe it's a matter of some **** in the carb.... would be pretty nice to just have a knob that I could turn a 1/5th turn..... like my trip odometer reset... just beefier.... I could always run my tap back and forth thru the hole with my drill-driver a few dozen times to 'loosen the threads' so it would turn easily... if it gets too loose, I could take a bicycle derailleur cable rubber donut and have it act as a 'jamb nut' against the interface...

(yep... Jack is getting 'weird' again... and speaking in the 3rd person too!) :001_huh: (just didn't want you to think an imposter took my place)

Glad it's not for a show MOPAR... $750.00.... any idiot who buys that... in an... idiot! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPA...tem2eabc1dbdfQQitemZ200450104287QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
#9 ·
Thanks, guys..... how do you regulate how many more RPM's you get... or is it designed for the exact amount?
Jack,

As you can see, the solenoid has threads on the end, you mount it on a bracket, with nuts on both sides, you adjust the nuts to hold the solenoid closer to, or farther away from the throttle lever on the carburetor. towards the lever, higher idle, farther away, lower idle. The picture below will give you the idea of how it works.


Image



Hank
:darkbluecoupe:
 
#10 ·
HANKL thanks... I get it now.... Holly wants 8 bucks for the nut alone... what a bunch of crooks! (At least the bracket is only 11 bucks)

I only have about 2,500 miles on my new motor... it was idling rough.... so I bumped it up for Air Conditioner weather... seemed tolerable without A/C on... sprayed some carb cleaner in and now I gained another 150 RPM's....

What idle are most of you guys running at? Are you all super low, and blipping the throttle to clear it out to start at a light?

Still kind of wish I had a knob to control it, but then again... the selonoid is AUTOMATIC, so once it's 100% A/C weather, it wouldn't matter, right?
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
Jack, instead of wiring the solenoid into the AC circuit, you could just hook it up to a toggle switch and turn it off and on as needed. As mentioned they can be adjusted to increase the idle by a little or a lot. I'd be all over that hemi solenoid if I were you:rolleyes:

Jim.
 
#13 ·
I ran the solenoid and mount from Holley. I have it wired to a dash toggle. During warm up (no choke) it will be handy to keep from stalling but I am guessing. I havent had the 1st start yet.
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
Jack - you're falling into old habits. The posts above told you the answer, but you seem unwilling to listen...
 
#16 ·
Or.... what about a Remote Control Airplane dealer... don't they adjust their carbs remotely on the really big planes...
 
#18 ·
Sometimes, but the way they do to wont work on a big carb. The only thing I can think of is some kind of a pedal stop in the footbox that could be moved by a cable, but the part you were already shown is still a better way to do it.
 
#19 ·
I'm not ignoring the good advice, guys... I understand that the solenoid will perfectly handle the needed RPM's to run the A/C compressor, but that doesn't also resolve the issue I have with rougher idle with different brands of gas, and weather...

Maybe the carb is dirty (after only 2,500 miles?) and needs a real cleaning.... it's just running unpredictable...


What's everyone idling at these days... and do you all run low RPM's and blip the throttle when the lights turn green to 'clean it out' or is your idle high (waste some gas) and you just drive away from the light?
 
#20 ·
So you have two problems.

The right fix for the intermittent AC load is the solenoid above.

The second problem indicates a carb problem, at least with the idle settings. Putting in some kind of manual adjustment is just masking the problem, not fixing it (really no different than increasing rpm when stopped using your right foot - might keep the engine running but doesn't fix the underlying problem and flips driving the car from fun to less than fun). I forget what kind of carb you have, but you can get setup/tuning guidance off the net. You might also have a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake tract that can change depending on engine temp. The "proper" idle rpm is the one where these types of issues don't arise...
 
#21 · (Edited)
Jack,

Once again you have been accused of not heeding the good advice given and going off on your own. I now can see why you are in the profession that you are in, because you can go to work and take out all your frustrations:001_tt1:.

I read your original post and you specifically asked if there was a manual solution to the situation that you personally have with your vehicle. The very first response was about the solenoid, which I might add seems to be a very good solution, however you originally asked if there was a manual solution.

While the solenoid method probably makes the most sense, that is not what you were looking for.

In the past I have read many of your posts and have seen many times when advice was given and you veered away from some of it, and I have to say I commend you for at least thinking about your problems and using this board as a sounding board to get opinions about what you thought was a method for resolving some of your problems.

I have to admit that in some cases the solutions that you have thought out might not be perfect, like storing spare gas in a space near a wheelwell or something like that where it can fall out, but you at least are always trying to come up with a fix. And thats what these cars are all about, it is your car and you customize it with little contraptions that you like.

Human nature dictates that if someone makes a suggestion to another person they believe that their suggestion is the only way you should proceed from that point on, and I can understand that because they are passionate about the suggestion they made to you.

Is a manual cable the way to solve this problem, maybe, maybe not. Is an electric solenoid the way to solve this problem, maybe, maybe not. You would like to try a manual fix based on your original post so after all the bable I just typed I would offer this.

Yes, I believe there is a way you can do what you would like to try. You could go to a parts store that sells heavy duty truck parts. There they would have Power Take Off (PTO) cables and manual throttle cables for using the PTO. The throttle cables have a knob with a very fine thread adjustment that would raise the RPM to what ever you want and then you can lock the knob at that level.

Also the end of the cable has a slot so that the throttle linkage attached to your accelerator will still operate. Will this work, maybe, maybe not, but it is your idea so keep up the good work. I for one enjoy reading your posts with your various ideas for problem solving.

BigUgly
 
#22 ·
You guys are right... I think I'll contact someone who knows a lot about carbs and see if there's a vacuum leak or debris in the carb....

I'll get the Holley Solenoid for sure to deal with A/C on or A/C off idle...

What's everyone running for an idle speed in a 351 based carbed motor?

And do you guys run low RPM's and blip the throttle at the green light to 'clear it out' or a higher idle and just drive off?
 
#23 ·
Jack

You shouldn't need to "blip" the throttle to drive away from a stopped and idling situation. That quick stab of the accelerator pedal won't "clear it out". It will add additional fuel from the accelerator pump and increase the engine rpm but you shouldn't need to do this if the carburetor is adjusted properly.

Typically, idle speed is less than 1000 rpm. However, depending on the configuration of your engine, ie cam profile, carburetor, intake manifold, etc, etc, the idle may need to be more - or less - to provide smooth, off idle performance. You want the idle speed to be as low as possible without having issues... like the ones you are having. Anything faster than that is just wasting fuel and possibly washing down your cylinder walls with unburned fuel.

Your idle requirements may be different than those of others. Unless their engines are configured very closely to yours, you shouldn't be patterning off of what they use. Your choice to seek a qualified carburetor expert is wise. Let them diagnose what needs to be done to make your car perform the way you want it to.

Keep us posted on what you find out. Inquiring minds want to know! LOL