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Engine Question...

430 views 6 replies 7 participants last post by  pan61  
#1 ·
If someone were to come up to me and say, "Hey, what's the one thing you really don't understand about engines?", the first thing I'd say is, "I have to pick only one?". The second thing I'd say is, "Cams". Can someone please give me a little education as to the difference between the FMS B303, E303 and X303 cams, for example? :confused:

First of all, what do the letters mean, and what does the number indicate? Also, I kind of understand the idea behind duration and distance (valve opening) but I don't really have a clear understanding of how to balance this all out for a given engine application. Along the same lines, what's the advantage/disadvantage of going with roller rockers, hydraulic lifters, and all that kind of stuff? :confused: :confused:

I'd just really like to get things like this out of the way before I go out and try to carry on a coherent conversation with a gearhead. :rolleyes: TIA!

Brent
 
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#2 ·
This is a pretty big subject, and reams of paper have been written about it. I'll try to give you some general information on this complicated and controversial subject.

A cam is to an engine as software is to a computer. Once all the right parts are there, the cam will "program" what kind of power it can make, and where in the rpm band it will make it.

Keep in mind that - like a computer - the cam must match the hardware in the engine; heads, pistons, carbs, etc. And also has to be matched to the transmission, final drive ratio, and vehicle. You can't install an X303 cam in a stock 5.0 and expect it to perform well. The parts just don't match.

The commonly listed specs are lift, duration, and lobe center. More lift and duration will increase air flow (and therefore power). But as lift and duration increase, the power band also increases. In other words, higher up in the rpm range.

For Ford, the B, E, and X cams have progressivly higher lift and duration numbers. Therefore making more power higher in the rpm range. Check the catalog for specific numbers.

Lifters are another story all together. The lifters ride on top of the cam lobe, and transmit movement upwards into the pushrods, eventually actuating the valves in time with cam rotation.

There are four type: solid/flat, hydraulic/flat, solid/roller, and hydraulic/roller. Solids run at high rpm's, require periodic adjustment, and are a little noisy. They are predominantly a race part. Some folks like to use them because they sound cool. Hydraulic lifters are self adjusting to a certain extent, are quiet, and are limited to about 6,000-6,5000 rpm. Stock engines have had hydraulic lifters since the early 60's (or earlier?).

Flat tappet lifters are a solid piece of steel on the bottom, and this solid steel rides on the cam lobe. Roller lifters actually have a small wheel on the bottom. Flat tappets are cheap, easy to install, and have been in use forever. Rollers are much more expensive. But they are also much better. The rolling wheel has almost zero frictional losses, and almost no cam lobe wear. Decreased friction will make more power.

And the lobes on a roller cam are shaped different than a flat tappet cam. The flat tappet cam is shaped kind of like a parabolic orbit, nearly a pointed elipse. The roller cam lobes are almost flat on top, like a mesa with sloping sides. This allows the valves to open and close much quicker, and keep the valve at it's full open position longer.

This is a really complicated subject, and I know I've been a somewhat long-winded. For more details, go to the web sites of cam makers, like Comp Cams. When it's time to pick a cam, call those people for advice. They will ask you a boatload of questions about your engine, your car, and how you drive. When they recommend a cam, follow that advice.

I also have a book called, "Ford Windsor Small Block Performance", from HP Books. ISBN 1-55788323-8. List price is $17.95. There's a whole chapter on camshafts and valvetrains.
 
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#3 ·
Hey Brent, boB has done a super job hitting on all the main points above. Here are a couple additional items you might find interesting.

The Ford cams. Here is a chart with their differences. I don't know what the 303 means :D
Image


Here is an 8 lesson in depth tutorial on cams from Speedcrafters that is well written
http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/Tech/camshaft/1.htm

Here is the cam tutorial from How Stuff Works
http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm

Here are some pictures of the lifters that boB mentioned
http://www.cranecams.com/lifters.htm

In fact, the Crane website has mounds of good info

More On Lifters
http://www.cranecams.com/master/lifter.htm
Why Cams Fail
http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm
Cam FAQ
http://www.cranecams.com/camvtfaq.htm
Valve Train FAQ
http://www.cranecams.com/morvtfaq.htm

Andy
 
#5 ·
Also it should be noted that the stock roller cam is actually a decent cam that can run well into the low 11s at the track. Unless you have changed Both heads and intake already, you are most likely wasting your money changing the cam.
Jeff
 
#6 ·
Brent - they have done a great job simplifying a very complicated subject. One last point that might help - the common jargon when talking about a cam is the combination of lift and duration. Generally, the total cam duration is not nearly as meaningful as the duration @ 0.050". What that means is from the point the valve (or is it cam lobe - not really that significant) moves 0.050" open, mark that point - then measure the duration of cam rotation until it gets to 0.050" from going closed. That is the meaningful duration. The lift is the peak (most) amount that the valve acually opens. So, the "E" cam - .498 lift, 220 duration (@0.050") means that the maximum valve lift is just shy of 1/2 in, and from the essential start of the valve opening until it is almost closed is 220 degrees of rotation of the cam. Hope I haven't confused you!
 
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