Factory Five Racing Forum banner

Coyote Gen 2 nightmare! (RESOLVED) (FIXED). Gen2 Control Pack

1.6K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  daileyservices73  
#1 · (Edited)
UPDATE! (FIXED)

After a summer of non-working F5 with a Cobra Gen2 not working, here's what finally worked that may save somebody their summer if you are having the same issue.

After getting my car back from the head mechanic at a Ford dealership (30 days) and sending off the PCU to Ford Performance, who re-imaged the PCU for free, nothing was working.

I was stuck on summer-long limp mode. The codes from the PCU indicated that the gas pedal, throttle body, and engine cylinder heat sensor needed to be replaced. Which I did and I would try to start it and get into limp mode again and again. Changing the gas pedal required cutting the frame and tearing up my hands and a lot of swearing.

What fixed it?
Dare I say the old school adage may be stating it wrong? "Fuel, Air, Spark".

Checked all fuses and relays- worked
Checked fuel pressure - Hot-always at pump, 45ish PSI when key is on.
TBC was always good, and both looked operating room clean

45ish PSI was not 50-52PSI, which is what is called for, so I decided to swap out the relays, and boom, she started, and limp mode was gone. Turns out the relay for the fuel pump was working but just not up to snuff, operating standards, maybe these rectangular black things wear out?

I have driven the car a dozen times over a month, and I assume the issue is resolved.
My new adage
is "Relays, Fuel, Air, Spark". The PCM codes sent me on a wild goose chase that was a complete waste of time, and the Limp mode from the PCU made troubleshooting extremely challenging.

Hope this helps others, and thank you to all who lent a hand.

Graham





Have a Gen2 build from 2017.
Bought a Gen2 Coyote Engine Ford performance pack kit from Forte (Mike is fantastic)

I rarely drive the car each year, and it runs flawlessly until this year, 2025. I drove it once this year for 3 miles, then put it back in the garage, and it has not started since.

I tried a few days later, and it was not starting and was in a flavor of limp mode.

I attempted to clear the P Error codes, which included a cylinder head temp error, along with two other codes related to the TB sensor and gas pedal throw errors. (three errors out of nowhere)

Sent it to a Ford dealership for a month, and they were useless and did not know what to do. I flatbedded it home and was trying to solve it myself. I bought a new cylinder head sensor and a new gas pedal, which required cutting part of the frame to remove the old one. I also purchased a new TCB, and the one that was on was cleaner than an operating room. (btw all the throws were normal and that part of the car was mechanically perfect. Its the dang ECU

The car would not start and was stuck in limp mode.
Ford Performance Group was very helpful, and after many discussions, they advised us to send the ECM to them for a reflash. They sent it back to me with a reflash, but it still shows the same P-codes even though I never even started the car. The car still will not start.

I am at a loss as I built the car with the utmost of care and Ford has me ECU-CPU/Electronically over a barrel, and I feel like a farmer with a John Deere tractor that I am being blocked from fixing,

I have disconnected the battery for days, done over 15-30 key turns (CPU). Waited out the lockouts from not being able to start but this Coyote Gen 2 Engine (PCU) and electronic system has me by the short hairs.

I swear my next crate engine will be an LS!

Does anybody have a Coyote that locked you out from starting for a full season? I only got one drive in it this season. Did you ever fix it or chuck the whole Coyote engine and start over?

Any ideas? I welcome all.

Thanks, Graham
 
#7 ·
Wow, just came across this post—what a nightmare situation. Did you ever end up figuring it out? Curious if the ECU was really the root cause or something else hiding under the radar
Yikes, this sounds rough. Any updates on how it turned out? I’m considering a Gen2 Coyote swap and now I’m kinda nervous
Looking into Coyote builds and stumbled across this post—super curious if you were ever able to get it running again. The ECU stuff sounds like a nightmareDang, reading this makes me think twice about going Coyote over LS. Did this story have a happy ending or did you go full LS-swap redemption arc?
 
#9 ·
Gen 1, Ford crate engine. First start was instant, I mean instant. It shocked me and my buddy. Idled and drove excellent out of the box. I had it tuned as suggested by Ford Performance.
It has been answering the bell every time, since day one.
20th Anniversary.
 
#12 ·
UPDATE! (FIXED)

After a summer of non-working F5 with a Cobra Gen2 not working, here's what finally worked that may save somebody their summer if you are having the same issue.

After getting my car back from the head mechanic at a Ford dealership (30 days) and sending off the PCU to Ford Performance, who re-imaged the PCU for free, nothing was working.

I was stuck on summer-long limp mode. The codes from the PCU indicated that the gas pedal, throttle body, and engine cylinder heat sensor needed to be replaced. Which I did and I would try to start it and get into limp mode again and again. Changing the gas pedal required cutting the frame and tearing up my hands and a lot of swearing.

What fixed it?
Dare I say the old school adage may be stating it wrong? "Fuel, Air, Spark".

Checked all fuses and relays- worked
Checked fuel pressure - Hot-always at pump, 45ish PSI when key is on.
TBC was always good, and both looked operating room clean

45ish PSI was not 50-52PSI, which is what is called for, so I decided to swap out the relays, and boom, she started, and limp mode was gone. Turns out the relay for the fuel pump was working but just not up to snuff, operating standards, maybe these rectangular black things wear out?

I have driven the car a dozen times over a month, and I assume the issue is resolved.
My new adage
is "Relays, Fuel, Air, Spark". The PCM codes sent me on a wild goose chase that was a complete waste of time, and the Limp mode from the PCU made troubleshooting extremely challenging.

Hope this helps others, and thank you to all who lent a hand.
 
#15 ·
I wonder if there are relays from other brands that could be substituted. I hear good things about Bosch relays.
 
#17 ·
Worked PT for a Saab dealer, and found the Bosch relays "okay". We DID have problems with the poorly wound coils (insufficient shellac; unwinding), but tge contacts seemed to hold up. I used Potter & Brumfield (best around). Oh, abd if you 'burnish' the contacts, don't overdo it... the iridium plating is what keeps them FROM charring.