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BlazingSasquatch - FF MK4 Build Thread - San Diego, CA

3.5K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  BlazingSasquatch  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey All,

I have my order in for my MK4 Complete Kit with a production date of 1/7/23.

While I wait, I have scooped up a 351w that I will be rebuilding and customizing for a target 450hp/430tq. I will hold off on committing to anything else as I know myself pretty well, and will likely move my own goal posts later.

I grabbed the 351w locally from a helluva guy who gave me a helluva deal. Tearing into it now to see what's what.

It was pulled from a 1990 F-250 with 79k mi, but had the engine replaced 25k mi ago. The Engine block casting E9AE-6015-AA indicates that this block was originally from a 1989 Crown Victoria.

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LOL @ the random order of pics. I'll figure that out.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Here is my current engine build list. Interested in feedback/thoughts & alternatives.

Edelbrock Rollin' Thunder #2281 Camshaft Hydraulic Roller Kit
$1,300

Edelbrock Performer RPM #2090 Top End Kit
351w 451hp/433tq in 9.5:1 Compression
$4900

Speed Pro Hypereutectic Pistons 4.060"
$170

Speedmaster Procomp Forged H-Beam Rods
$415

Holley Sniper EFI 4BBL Black
Up to 650hp, integrated FPR, ECU and Coil
$1200

Moroso Standard Flow Electric Water Pump
$502

Ford Performance Timing Cover w/Dipstick Provision

Standard Volume Oil Pump
$51

ARP Chromoly Oil Pump Driveshaft
$23

Milodon Stock Depth (4.1" stroke) Front Sump Pro Touring/Road Race Oil Pan
$440

Milodon Stainless Steel Dipstick
$80

Milodon Front Sump Pro-touring Pickup
$60

Roller Conversion Lifters (undetermined MFR)
$600

Push rods (undetermined length)
$150

Scorpion Racing Rocker Arms (undetermined ratio)
$350

Holley MSD HyperSpark Distributor
$300

Holley Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition Coil
$50

Tremec TKX 5-speed .68 5th gear (w/Moser 8.8 @ 3.55)
$2800

Breeze Power Steering Pump W/Reservoir
$480

Breeze Billet Convex Side Mirror Set
$275

Every other day I find something I forgot. This is my first American push rod V8, so the discovery process has been a ton of fun.
 
#9 ·
Melling high-volume Oil Pump
$85
just a quick comment on your HV oil pump.
I had one in my original build, but other forum members talked me out of it. Unless you're running high RPMs, racing, or using an oil cooler, my understanding is that it's not necessary and might actually put some undue stress on the pump shaft and pump/dizzy gears. I ended up switching out the pump after I installed the engine which was a bit of a PITA to get the oil pan off while laying on my back.
Food for thought.
 
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#4 ·
on these forums, it's been fun helping others spend their money. Looks like we'll have no issues with you :)
you're off to a great start. this thing should be a beast when you're ready to stab in the drivetrain!
 
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#7 ·
Hey Alex!

it was really nice to meet you, and since you're only 15 minutes from me, i'll be around to check out your build on a fairly regular basis,

it's been great to get a dose of enthusiasm from you. i can tell you're excited about getting your kit, and i can only imagine it's going to be tough to have to wait until January of next year, but you've got a nice starting project in the engine you have.

see you again soon.
 
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#8 ·
Hey Alex!

it was really nice to meet you, and since you're only 15 minutes from me, i'll be around to check out your build on a fairly regular basis,

it's been great to get a dose of enthusiasm from you. i can tell you're excited about getting your kit, and i can only imagine it's going to be tough to have to wait until January of next year, but you've got a nice starting project in the engine you have.

see you again soon.
Great meeting you as well! Can't wait to start in on the kit with your experienced guidance!

Also, my old lady was peeing on the floor so I had to get creative. Portable pee pad. 🔥

Held on with a couple HF magnets.
All in cost: $20

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#15 ·
The .040 289 that went back in was built out of 302. I used a Milodon pan to get the volume up to 8 quarts and high volume pump with a hardened larger drive. The high volume pump supports the slightly loose clearances used in the friction reduction effort.

I should mention this went into a 65 Mustang so YMMV.
 
#16 ·
Got the block deck surfaces cleaned and checked them all with a straight edge and .0016" feeler gauge: Perfect.

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Measured my piston/deck clearance to be .056" which seems high, and is more than the book I have states (not a factory manual). One of those How to rebuild a SBF Books.

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Confirmed that the bores are 4.060" which is also not recommended according to the book I have. I have seen plenty of posts from people saying .060" over is fine, and other that say "oh hell no". I guess we will find out! Going to keep my rotating assembly on the lower budget side just in case, but this engine had 25k on the rebuild and it was in a utility truck so I'm not terribly concerned.


I also pulled the pistons and found some interesting rod bearing wear patterns. Anyone good at reading these? I have been searching all of the available references I can find to try and build some perspective. Thoughts on below?

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#17 ·
Welcome to the fray! Looks like you are off to a good start and have a nice parts list picked out. I always go with standard volume and pressure oil pumps as there is no need for extra pressure or volume and its tougher on the distributor gear and camshaft. Also always use a chromoly oil pump shaft. I can still see the cross hatch in the cylinders, you might get away with a hone and new rings but you would have to measure the bores to see where youre at. As for the rod bearings, the top usually has the most wear because thats where the pressure is compressing and then combusting. use good fasteners where you can, you'll need to resize the rods if you do rod bolts. No worries on the deck height, it helps take a little compression out of it but if its going to the machine shop, it would be a good idea to deck it at least to get a nice square and clean surface for the head gaskets to seal on. Good Luck and keep up the good work.
 
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#20 · (Edited)
Had a great visit to Factory Five this week and finalized my build sheet. Decided to make a few changes based on some great feedback I've received from the people on this forum, and the team at Factory Five Racing.

After some discussions about fuel delivery, I am likely going to have to run my own fuel lines as I am being told that there is no return line in the kit. Also, I'm being told that the fuel supply line likely won't be large enough in diameter for my setup. Interested in your feedback on that. So I will be purchasing the Aeromotive drop in EFI setup somewhere online, and will likely run AN fittings/Lines myself. TBD.

Another notable change is that I have been convinced to upgrade to the IRS setup over the 3-link suspension. I have not yet heard anyone say they wished they hadn't opted for IRS, but several people have stated that if they could do it all over, they would have chosen IRS over their 3-links. Looking for your thoughts here as well. Agreed?

I know F5 states that you can't run the heater option with the glovebox dash, but I'm convinced I'll be able to figure out how to make it all fit.

I am going with the hydraulic brake setup and do not plan to run a booster. I opted for the F5 supplied kit as opposed to the aftermarket options but for no good reason other than simplicity, and they assured me that it came with everything I need to hook it up to my proposed TKX/QuickTime setup.

I chose Power Steering despite the many differing opinions regarding "feel" and things like that. I hope to be able to dial in the power assist to achieve a balance that I am comfortable with. I have a 1973 Datsun 240z without Power Steering and it's great, but I am not running an Iron V8, 17" wheels or fatty-bo-batty tires on the front of it.

I have read a lot of posts stating that you need to drill the windshield support for the sun visors and wind wings supplied by Factory Five. The guy I was working with at their HQ stated that the windshields come drilled and tapped for the visors and wings. Can anyone who has purchased recently confirm this?

Lastly, I am going to order a slightly wider low back aluminum racing seat direct from Kirkey. The one they supply fits comfortably, but not when the belt is run through the provisioned slots on the sides. I think 18.5-19" will be perfect for my Sasquatch sized frame. They allowed me to delete the standard vinyl seats to save a few bucks (and some storage space) on those.

Posting the build sheet below. Any thoughts or comments, please share!

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PS. Dave is a great guy. The whole team was great and extremely helpful. So excited to be joining the F5 family!