If you are using the type with the red plastic flag key, they are garbage. Replace it with a Cole Hersee of at least 500 amp rating and that will sort it.

Cheers,
Nigel

 

Thanks Nigel. This one is all metal from NAPA. I’m going to check all cables under the car today and also see if the ends are in good shape.

 

My Kill switch interrupts one hot cable from the battery to one hot feed cable.
Not that your method is the cause of your problem.
Good luck,

 

Take the cable that you have disconnected and connect to the post w/ the 3 wires. Just slip it on top of those three wires and use the nut from the now bare post. This will bypass the switch so you know if the switch is the problem.

 

Really good call and thank you Sir

 

The picture posted above indicates that one cable is not even attached to the switch. Was that left off on purpose? It's confusing showing that, with no explanation as to why it's not connected. I presume you saw that?

The first instance you mentioned that you wiggled the wires, and it then started. To me that seems to indicate a faulty master switch, or simply poor connections at the switch. If your wiggling the wires, by some fluke, also jiggled the negative ground cable from the battery to the chassis, it definitely could be a ground issue. It's odd the new switch that also acted faulty after just a few starts.. Do you have a high amp main fuse? If you had a short to the starter, the main fuse could have popped. Check to see if it has blown, and any connections leading to it.

 

The disconnected wire was me in the middle of inspecting the end connection, just making sure it wasn’t loose or corroded. Unsure if I have a high amp main fuse. I’ve been driving the car for over ten years and this issue is all of a sudden.

 

Well it could just be the ignition switch. That may explain why the gauges aren't working as well. The FFR supplied ignition switches did have problems. It wasn't uncommon even back in 2008 when I began to build my roadster, for issues with them. sometimes they wouldn't shut off the engine, other times the starter wouldn't spin. An internal fault, that required a complete new switch replacement. You couldn't fix it yourself.

Do the lights work, horn beeps when th switch is on? That may indicate further if it's the ignition switch. May have just been a fluke that the starter worked after wiggling the wires. Those ignition switches could act up intermittently.

 

Good call and I’m on my second ignition switch. I can’t recall the model but I know the last one I got from NAPA. Charging the battery now and going to some of the trouble shooting you and others recommend. Really appreciate the help from this group.

 

Second ignition switch since I’ve owned the car for about 12 Years. Should’ve mentioned that earlier

 

Update- bypassed the switch Craig S recommended and

- rear parking lights now coming on and I won’t go off
-gauges now light up
- cannot start the car as ignition switch isn’t working

I may start with the ignition switch. I switched to an Amazon push button start and curious if that’s part of the problem.

What high quality ignition switch exists out there?

 

Update- bypassed the switch Craig S recommended and
- rear parking lights now coming on and I won’t go off
-gauges now light up
- cannot start the car as ignition switch isn’t working

Good Grief...So in other words, the typical electric confusion that happens to us non-electrical types ..😣😄

My first thought of testing the battery master switch would be to just use a simple 12volt test light. With the battery positive cable hooked up to one switch terminal, run one lead of the test light to the other terminal on the switch, and the other lead to ground. Turn the switch on and off and see if the test light works. If you tap the switch gently when the test light is on, does the light flicker, or go off?

So before bypassing the battery master switch, the rear parking brakes didn't work, but now they do? Did only the front parking lights work before? Do the front parking, and headlights now turn on and off Ok with the headlight switch, but the rear park lights just stay on? If so, this sounds like a wiring issue unrelated to the master switch. Your positive it wasn't the brake lights that were on? Maybe your, or a friends foot was resting on the brake pedal while you were checking things out. Seriously, it's those kind of crazy ass things that happen to some of us, that can drive us nuts.🤪

You say the dash gauges now light up, even though the ignition switch isn't working. This indicates that they are on a non-switched, (always hot), circuit, which typically is how most builders would wire our park and headlights. In other words you can turn on the headlights, (and park lights), anytime, using just the headlight switch, without first needing the ignition switch in the on position. Of course the master switch has to be on to do this.
Besides the headlight/park switch having to be turned on, dash lights are normally wired through a dimmer control switch, some which will allow you to turn the dash lights off altogether. Do you have an instrument light dimmer switch? If so, is there any chance it could previously have been turned down to the point the dash lights were not visible? If not, then the fact the dash lights now work having bypassed the master switch, it may indicate an issue with the master switch itself.


When you say you cannot start the engine because the ignition switch isn't working, do you mean the starter is not cranking, or that it cranks ok, but the engine won't run? Having a separate "start" button, could it just be the "start" button that has failed, (or perhaps it's wiring).
It begs the question, has bypassing the master switch allowed the ignition to be turned "on" now? Does the car now have 12 volt power available, be it via switched or non-switched, (always hot), to all circuits? Check the switched circuits, wipers, heater fan, or perhaps you hear the electric fuel pump running when the ignition switch is first turned to the on position.

 

There is a thread right now on the other forum about ign switches w/ some suggestions.

 

Check ALL ground cables/straps (loosen & retighten), DEFINATELY bypass the switch (connect the "in" cable to the "out" terminal)... which should instantly show if it's the switch or something else. I've been in communications & electronics my whole existence, so look for what it DOESN'T do; not what it DOES do.

 

Thanks everyone.

-Bypassed the kill switch
-When I connect battery, parking lights automatically go on and stay on, this was never an issue
-gauges light up once I turn my ignition key to on position- this was how it works normally
-when I push my start button, nothing and it doesn’t light up

Can it be as simple as the push button start has failed? I replaced it about a year ago but unsure how that would impact the rear drive lights staying on constantly. Video attached

 

Thank you

 

Crossed up wires somewhere in the system?

 

Nope. This was one of all of a sudden/out of nowhere issues. Still can’t figure it out