Sorry I can't be of help, but I have a request and question about your chassis dolly.
request: Can you share your plans? (here's a link to one I was considering: kitcarinfo.com

question: I've been thinking about the chassis dolly and just wondering how you get it off of the dolly when the time comes? (can you get to the cross-braces with a floor-jack, while it's still on the dolly?)

 

I was planning to see if the dolly and buck work before posting pics and dimensions, but I can send you a PM after measuring things. My dolly is very similar to the one in your link, except I raised the height by stacking four 2x6 pieces on large casters. The body buck is a new design, but let me take pics and I'll post a full update. I've been wondering the same thing about getting the car off the buck. There's obviously a way to do this so if anyone else can chip in you've got at least 2 people interested in what you have to say!

 

One thing to consider when making a chassis dolly. Make it tall enough to be able to comfortably work on the car. If you have the space to make it taller it is nice to be able to use a stool and work on suspension and such. Just a suggestion.

 

Any recommendations for other helpful things to build?

To answer the original question....

Shelves, build shelves. If you ordered the complete Kit, there are appoximately 25 boxes of goodies. I found that inventorying all of the parts prior to starting helped Identify some missing items that were listed on FFR shortage list. I also numbered the shelves to match the boxes. Getting all of the parts out and in plain site on the shelves helped for quick identification during the build.

Keep your drill press if you have one, I found it very handy in drilling the rivet holes in the small aluminum panels. And some of the larger ones near the edge.

My 2 cents.

 

Keep a band saw and get a blade suitable for non ferrous metal for it. Cutting aluminum sheets for improved fit or other modifications like bumping out the foot boxes is always necessary and shears are horrid.....

 

You should make your self wood accents for the tunnel/dash if you're thinking of doing that for the car. Search around and you'll see some excellent wood working on the interior dash/trim.

And yes, make the dolly tall enough for stool usage. I wished I had thought of that 4 years ago.

 

You could build a skookum set of saw horses as a frame support, before selling off your woodworking tools.

I built my roadster up to to the point I was ready to put the engine/tranny in, on sawhorses. It made it very much easier to work on, running fuel, and brake lines, mounting suspension, fuel tank, rear end, wire harness's, etc. I liked being able to sit on a mechanics stool to do much of the work, and not having to lie on my back for any of the underside jobs.

When it came time to lower the chassis, we used an engine hoist at either end, and simply lifted the chassis, slid out the sawhorses, and lowered it to the ground.

 

Good God in Heaven Bill. I am glad that you are still among us.

You could build a skookum set of saw horses as a frame support, before selling off your woodworking tools.

I built my roadster up to to the point I was ready to put the engine/tranny in, on sawhorses. It made it very much easier to work on, running fuel, and brake lines, mounting suspension, fuel tank, rear end, wire harness's, etc. I liked being able to sit on a mechanics stool to do much of the work, and not having to lie on my back for any of the underside jobs.

When it came time to lower the chassis, we used an engine hoist at either end, and simply lifted the chassis, slid out the sawhorses, and lowered it to the ground.

 

Dave, here's a chassis dolly that I liked and it's similar to the one posted by MPTech with an "H" design, but sized for the FFR frame. Mine raised the frame 12 inches above the ride height but higher might be better. It was strong enough so that I mounted the engine and the rest of the drive train, and ran the engine, while on the dolly. This enabled me to not have to buy wheels and tires until I needed them for the completed go-kart. To get the go-kart off the dolly I just used a floor jack on wooden blocks and jack stands - first rear, then front, then rear, then front, etc. The tool storage mentioned is a good idea but maybe a beer can holder?
Pete

 

frame/chassis dolly

not trying to hijack this thread, but.......

frame/chassis dolly........sorry I don't have pic's, I'm at work, but I could make pic's available by e-mail if anyone is interested.

I've got a chassis dolly made out of 4"X4" square tubing welded up. It has 6" or 8" solid rubber casters. It's basically a rectangle shape w/4 casters and four uprights. The top of the uprights are cut with half circles, which cradle the FFR 4" frame tubes. It puts the bottom of the frame tubes 17" off of the floor. I installed all suspension, engine, tranny, IRS, wiring, even did my first start to break the cam in with it on the frame dolly. When I was sure it was ready for first go kart, I jacked it up enough to get jack stands under the frame and roll the dolly out from under it.

In fact, that dolly is available for anyone that wants it, but I think it would be too heavy & bulky for shipping. Anyone want to pick it up? Just outside of Tulsa, OK.

PM me your e-mail for pic's.

 

Scrap iron

I built this from scraps. two 2" angles run from just behind the front suspension to just ahead of the rear cross tube. It is greast for moving around the shop. The height is lower but it is a good level for working on all of the top side side stuff. I can reach over the centerline from the sides. Getting it on and off was cheating with a two post lift on the other side of the wall (un-heated).

 

2" Ramp?

Just got my FFR. Went to change the oil last weekend and couldn't roll my 2 1/2 ton low rise floor jack under the car to lift it! After using two smaller jacks, the main jack and floor stands, i finally changed the oil! Anyway, going to the hardware store tomorrow to buy wood to make two or three inch risers with wheel chocks so I can roll the car on it to get the floor jack under the car!

 

Just got my FFR. Went to change the oil last weekend and couldn't roll my 2 1/2 ton low rise floor jack under the car to lift it! After using two smaller jacks, the main jack and floor stands, i finally changed the oil! Anyway, going to the hardware store tomorrow to buy wood to make two or three inch risers with wheel chocks so I can roll the car on it to get the floor jack under the car!

if you pull the cup out of the floor jack and put a pc. of rubber on it, it will fit under.
just crib it up and remove the flr. jack

 

i wouldn't want to work around those skookum legs all the time.:001_tongue:
i use adjustable heavy duty stands.
build yourself a set of wood blocks to build up the ht.
take 2x6 or 2x4's and lace them together, screw or nail to fit a 1 inch wider than the floor stands base.
or block up with some 6x6's
times when your working on it you wish that stand wasn't in your way.
i put some rubber roof material taped to the top of the stands to pertect the chassis.