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TMScrogins: The cobra jet intake manifold fits under the stock roadster hood just fine? What about with 3/8" motor mount spacers?
I am just curious, I am looking at running the cobra jet intake and it seems to be taller than the stock coyote or boss intakes. Sorry, not trying to derail your thread. Great work so far, and I am sure I'll be doing something similar (but hopefully without loosing the drivetrain!)
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
TMScrogins: The cobra jet intake manifold fits under the stock roadster hood just fine? What about with 3/8" motor mount spacers?
I am just curious, I am looking at running the cobra jet intake and it seems to be taller than the stock coyote or boss intakes. Sorry, not trying to derail your thread. Great work so far, and I am sure I'll be doing something similar (but hopefully without loosing the drivetrain!)
It does fit with no clearance problems. Even with the 3/8" spacers. I would estimate it is no more than 1/2" taller than the Boss intake. There is about 1/2" clearance from the top of the manifold to the hood line if you did not run a hood scoop. With the scoop there's gobs of room.

And yes minus losing the drivetrain would be most favorable and highly recommended.

Trevor
 
Nice silicon elbow. Where'd you get the silicon parts? I'll be imitating your set up or building something similar for my car? And do you have the HP change for the intake system on your old set up? I still have the stock Coyote intake and was wondering if the add-on intake was just for looks or if the performance gain was worth the money? Do you have anything for sale from your old set up that I might be interested in? I've decided on the QT bell housing and the Spec stage 2 clutch with a TKO 600 with mid shift. The Spec clutch saves me from having to replace the stock Coyote flywheel. Pumpkin will be a rebuilt '98 Lincoln aluminum unit with 3.55's from Ford racing and an Eaton Trutrac.

rj
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Nice silicon elbow. Where'd you get the silicon parts? I'll be imitating your set up or building something similar for my car? And do you have the HP change for the intake system on your old set up? I still have the stock Coyote intake and was wondering if the add-on intake was just for looks or if the performance gain was worth the money? Do you have anything for sale from your old set up that I might be interested in? I've decided on the QT bell housing and the Spec stage 2 clutch with a TKO 600 with mid shift. The Spec clutch saves me from having to replace the stock Coyote flywheel. Pumpkin will be a rebuilt '98 Lincoln aluminum unit with 3.55's from Ford racing and an Eaton Trutrac.

rj
Russell,

I get my silicone parts from turbohoses.com, racepartsolutions.com and siliconeintakes.com. Turbohoses is the only one of the three that will actually make you any custom silicone hose. The elbow is from siliconeintakes.com. It is a transition elbow going from a 5" round to a 4" round diameter. I wanted one that was a 5 to 4.25 which is not a stock item anywhere. Turbohoses would have made for me but I was able to stretch the 4" over my custom 4 1/4" MAF housing. The Cobra Jet throttle body is an oval shape measuring 6.13" x 3.45". Good luck trying to find an oval to round transition hose. With silicone you can form a round hose to an oval shape. The circumference of 6.13 x 3.45 measurement translates to an equivalent 5" round diameter thus the 5" round to 4" round transition hose. Also word of caution... do not oversize your intake tube to match the 5" throttle body opening on the CobraJet. You will have drielveability issue. Don't go any larger than about 4.5" if you are staying naturally aspirated. Too large and you will lose too much air velocity causing the driveability issues as noted by many tuners.

If you are looking at the Boss intake then you'll have more hose options as that intake will take a 3.5 to 4" round transition if you are using your stock throttle body. If you upgrade the throttle body on the Boss intake to say a larger aftermarket one (which most are 4" mouths instead of the stock 3.5") then the options become even more plentiful on hoses as you can just build a 4" system from filter to throttle body.

I don't know what the change from the stock to the Boss intake was. I never ran the engine with the stock intake. For me the decision was based on both aesthetics and performance. Was it worth it? Well that's all subjective and in the eye of the beholder, I suppose. For me anything that improves aesthetics or performance or uniqueness is usually worth it in my book.

Pretty much sold everything except for my old Tremec aluminum bell (replaced it with a Quicktime), Ford Racing billet steel flywheel (replaced with a McLeod billet alloy flywheel) and a Centerforce II dual friction clutch (replaced with a McLeod RST dual disc clutch). These parts are available for sale but sounds like you already have those areas covered.

Good luck and enjoy on your upgrades.

Stay tuned on this thread as I will be posting dyno results on all the new changes within the next 3 weeks. That will be interesting to compare against the old engine. (Hmmm that sounds strange... "old engine" when it only had 1200 miles on it... Arrrrggghhh... still hurts to think about it but the pain is subsiding as I get closer to being back on the road)

Trevor
 
Discussion starter · #46 · (Edited)
You might find this dyno comparison interesting. Coyote with stock intake, Boss 302, and Cobrajet.

JPC Racing Compares all Three Ford Intake Manifolds for the Coyote 5.0L Engine | NMRA

Seems the new Cobrajet might require better "flow" (i.e. heads and cams) to really open the engine up....
RJ,

A good read. Thanks for sharing. Heads and cams are definitely the ticket regarding the Cobra Jet manifold. But true with the Boss manifold too. Both manifolds weren't designed around the Stock Coyote engine but rather around the Boss platform. The Cobra Jet manifold was designed for the Cobra Jet racing program which those engines are coyote variants with CNC ported Boss heads and custom grind cams with higher lift and longer duration than the stock Coyote motor along with a host of other mods.

My replacement engine is the Aluminator XS which is the NA Cobra Jet version in the crate motor package. So this new engine has the upgraded heads and cams among other components so, in my case, everything will be well matched.

I would just say that with my prior setup (a Boss manifold bolted on a stock Coyote (GT) crate motor with a stock throttle body generated 419 RWHP. That combination seemed favorable albeit less favorable I'm sure the if that stock motor had upgraded heads and cams.
 
Yes, the Boss intake will probably be the only mod I'd consider. Will start with good headers, cold air and a tune and then see where we go from there. Could be all I need/want :)
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Yes, the Boss intake will probably be the only mod I'd consider. Will start with good headers, cold air and a tune and then see where we go from there. Could be all I need/want :)
RJ,

Earlier you inquired about left over parts from my previous setup. I was thinking big parts. I hadn't even considered the miscellaneous such as all the intake tubes and connectors until now.

(Used = less than 1,200 road miles)
If you decide on aluminum elbow instead of the silicone I have that (used - you might want to repolish it). If you want rubber or silicone elbow I also have a 4" 90 degree elbow (new) as well. Also, I have the 4" MAF housing (used) with coupler and (if you use an aluminum tube elbow then I have throttle body (TB) couplers in a 3.5" to 4" (lightly used) for the stock TB and a 4" standard coupler (new) and a 4" hump hose coupler (new) depending on your fancy for a larger aftermarket TB depending on what you go with. I also have about 3 different Air filters which 2 are brand new (S&B and AFE) and K&N (used) (I was playing around with different sizes trying to maximize filter media surface area in such a tightly constrained area and the two new ones have an inverted cone top as well. All 3 filters will fit. Needless to say I have a bunch of leftover parts from working at this intake for some time trying to optimize the setup.

If you are interested in any of these parts PM me or post here. Also, if you plan on connecting the driver side PCV to the intake tube then extra thought will be needed to determine how you are going to tap into the intake if you decide to use a rubber/silicone elbow. If you go with the aluminum elbow it's much easier to adapt a port in the general location of the stock Mustang GT. You'll notice in one of my recent posted pics that I welded a push on an aluminum fitting on the elbow for the PCV connection.

With my new setup I am in the middle of adapting a PCV port in the silicone transition elbow. Not yet sure how it's going to turn out but I will have that finished this Thursday and I'll post a pic to this thread to help stimulate some additional thought if you decide to go the silicone elbow route on your setup and intend on connecting your driver PCV valve to the intake tube.

Good luck and enjoy the build.

Trevor
 
Trevor,
What oil pan are you using? Are you using the pan that comes on the XS or something different? (apologize for getting off topic but I think yours is the only build I've seen with the XS)
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Trevor,
What oil pan are you using? Are you using the pan that comes on the XS or something different? (apologize for getting off topic but I think yours is the only build I've seen with the XS)
Tad,

No worries getting off topic. This thread went off topic a while ago when my drivetrain was destroyed. I am using the 12 qt. Ford Racing pan that comes on the XS. However, I had to modify it as it had a very deep sump. It dropped down way too low so I chopped it and then had it re-powdercoated. Also had to cut down the oil pickup tube. Turned out great. Here are some pics and you can see the before and after and a comparison shot next to the Moroso pan I was running before on the old motor.
 

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Discussion starter · #52 ·
Tad,

No worries getting off topic. This thread went off topic a while ago when my drivetrain was destroyed. I am using the 12 qt. Ford Racing pan that comes on the XS. However, I had to modify it as it had a very deep sump. It dropped down way too low so I chopped it and then had it re-powdercoated. Also had to cut down the oil pickup tube. Turned out great. Here are some pics and you can see the before and after and a comparison shot next to the Moroso pan I was running before on the old motor.
I should also mention that you would not easily be able to use a clutch cable with the XS Ford Racing oil pan unless you really made some drastic modifications. There is no clearance area in the pan to allow for a cable to pass. For me that was perfect since I'm not running a cable. It gave me back a little more oil capacity in that particular area over the Moroso.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Finished up the reworked intake on the XS motor. Fired up the new engine with no issues. A few remaining odds and ends to finish up this weekend and then it should be back on the road and headed to the Dyno for a tune and some data gathering along with results.
 

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Discussion starter · #54 ·
After 4 months and an unintended winter project, #8182 is back on the road again and ready to be tuned with the new Aluminator XS engine in. Tomorrow is the big day. I have Dyno time starting at 9:00 a.m.

Here's to hoping for big numbers and no drama. I will be recording the Dyno pulls and will post video along with HP/TQ numbers. Once the dyno work is done I will be placing two thermometers (one on the inside of the air box and one on the outside of the air box) and then hitting the road and logging ambient temps to determine if there seems to be any delta with relation to the air box. Depending on how things go, I may datalog the IATs with the Airbox on and then with the Airbox off to see what temperature deltas are observed inside the air tube.

I'm ironically now back to the beginning of this thread and where it all started. Fingers crossed to tomorrow's dyno pulls.
 
Tomorrow is the big day. I have Dyno time starting at 9:00 a.m. Here's to hoping for big numbers and no drama. I will be recording the Dyno pulls and will post video along with HP/TQ numbers.
Trevor,
Any update on the dyno/tune session? Hoping this session was uneventful - other than some solid numbers from that awesome XS.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Hey Tad,

Thanks for the reach out. Was headed to the dyno shop Saturday morning. Blew a remote oil filter hose. Stopped me dead in my tracks. Towed it back to the shop and made the repair. Had to reschedule for this weekend.

So close but that was really the first shakedown since I put the new drivetrain in.

Trevor
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Finally made it to the dyno tuner today. The new Aluminator XS is officially tuned and I am back on the road again. To get this thread back on track to its original intent (cold air intake improvements), I have started a new thread and posted the dyno results there (see link below). Now that the car is running again and back on the road I will begin comparing temperatures with and without the air box and post results to this thread. I hope to have some more data within the next couple of weeks regarding IATs and ambient temps. I'll post here with results for inquiring minds.

And the best part... the transmission is glass smooth at high RPM. No more vibration.


http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/490769-coyote-cobrajet-aluminator-xs-dyno-results.html

Trevor
 
I'll bet your butt cheeks were squeezed together pretty darn tight when the Coyote hit 7,000 RPM on the first Dyno pull. Good to here everything stayed together. Great thread about the benefits of cold air. Might be a upgrade project for next winter.
I love watching video of my Coyote /MkIV on the dyno. What an amazing sound as it pushes from 4,000 to 7,000 revs. If you look close you can see the Gas-N sidepipe collectors turn a hew of bronze from the heat.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
I'll bet your butt cheeks were squeezed together pretty darn tight when the Coyote hit 7,000 RPM on the first Dyno pull. Good to here everything stayed together. Great thread about the benefits of cold air. Might be a upgrade project for next winter.
I love watching video of my Coyote /MkIV on the dyno. What an amazing sound as it pushes from 4,000 to 7,000 revs. If you look close you can see the Gas-N sidepipe collectors turn a hew of bronze from the heat.
"bet your butt cheeks were squeezed together pretty darn tight when the Coyote hit 7,000 RPM" ... That is an understatememt. Had I had presence of mind I would have brought along a chunk of coal and I'd be rich.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Finally made it to the dyno tuner today. The new Aluminator XS is officially tuned and I am back on the road again. To get this thread back on track to its original intent (cold air intake improvements), I have started a new thread and posted the dyno results there (see link below). Now that the car is running again and back on the road I will begin comparing temperatures with and without the air box and post results to this thread. I hope to have some more data within the next couple of weeks regarding IATs and ambient temps. I'll post here with results for inquiring minds.

And the best part... the transmission is glass smooth at high RPM. No more vibration.


http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-for...r-engine-roadster-builds/490769-coyote-cobrajet-aluminator-xs-dyno-results.html

Trevor
So here is the data I promised.

What follows are several different tests to evaluate effectiveness of an airbox and cold air intake now that we're back on the road. Outside conditions were morning time, sunny with temperatures just at 60 degrees. For these first two tests I acquired two identical non-contact thermometers and verified their accuracy in relation to each other. They show within one-tenth degree variance. Thermometer #1 was placed on the inside of the airbox next to the filter and thermometer #2 was placed on the outside of the airbox next to the filter. Both therms were located within a few inches of each other (see pic below).

Note: The first 4 tests were all conducted with the airbox installed. Only test #5 had the airbox removed.

We'll call this first test the "Ambient air temperature WITHOUT fresh ducted air - Test #1". With the vehicle completely warmed up and the outside ducted air blocked off I ran down the road at varying speeds and RPM (freeway and city streets). I took two separate readings, one just having exited the freeway and one just having parked with engine still running after driving on city streets which we'll refer to as Freeway and City readings. These two readings were then averaged for a single reading per thermometer. The average reading for therm #1 (inside airbox) was 72 degrees. The average reading for therm #2 (outside airbox) was 110 degrees. Temperature delta = 38 degrees.

We'll call this test the "Ambient Air Temperature WITH fresh ducted air - Test #2". This test was conducted within 30 minutes of Test #1. Outside conditions were the same as test #1. This test was identical to Test #1 except fresh air was ducted into the airbox. The average reading for therm #1 (inside airbox) was 67 degrees. The average reading for therm #2 (outside airbox) was 111 degrees. Temperature delta = 44 degrees.

The following Tests #3 and #4 were conducted (datalogged) at the same time Tests #1 and #2 were done to attempt as close to a controlled environment as I am capable of such that environment conditions were the same for these tests as compared to the thermometer tests. These Intake Air Temp (IAT) datalogging tests focus on three scenarios; With airbox WITHOUT fresh ducted air - Test #3, With airbox WITH fresh ducted air - Test #4, and Without airbox - Test #5.

"Intake Air Temp (IAT) with airbox WITHOUT fresh ducted air - Test #3" resulted in an Avg. IAT = 62.94 degrees.
"Intake Air Temp (IAT) with airbox WITH fresh ducted air - Test #4" resulted in an Avg. IAT = 62.40 degrees.
"Intake Air Temp (IAT) without airbox - Test #5". - To be conducted... Waiting for opportunity to test at same 60 degree outside temps. Stay tuned for results...

So here are a few inferred points looking at the data thus far... What predominately stands out to me is that the piped in fresh air has a positive cooling effect on ambient temperature around the filter but it is small compared to the effect that the airbox has. The airbox seems to keep the air charge cooler by around 40 degrees. This is huge. It is also worth noting that the Avg. IATs were only slightly above the outside temperature, further suggesting that the 40 degree +- reduction in under hood temps via the airbox is helping keep the IAT’s down very low.

The final and fifth test should be interesting. I am expecting/hoping that the IAT’s climb up without the airbox.

I would be interested in any of your guys’ reviews of the data and interpretations thus far for the benefit of all.
 

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