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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been thinking about this for almost 2 decades (since 2002). The time was never right and it still isn't. But I realize if I keep waiting for the right time, I might never do it.

So put in the order last month and finally got a date (of September!!!)

I am using the 1967 Shelby Cobra 427 S/C CSX3042 (link: 1967 Shelby 427 S/C Cobra Roadster | F128 | Indy 2019 | Mecum Auctions) as my inspiration. My goal is not to blindly replicate it, but limit myself to changes that I'd reasonably make had I bought the car in 1967 (eg: I've been known to black out chromes or replace blacked out parts with chromes, install USB, install heated seats, etc).

Here's my build plan, please feel free to comment so I can learn from the hive!

Basic
302. Not sure which configuration yet. Mated to either T5 if basic 302 or TKX.
IRS for comfort
Power steering
Heat & weather stripping and insulation everywhere appropriate

Exterior
Gas-n mirror-polished touring exhaust with drummer-mike heat shield (also the gas-n headers)
Chrome plated driver and passenger roll bars
LED headlights that maintain the period-correct look
Dual roll-bar tonneau cover
Passenger grab handle
wind wings and sun visors

Interior
S/C layout (obviously) with Smith gauges (electric instead of mechanical)
^ all period-correct buttons and knobs
Period correct shifter handle with the T
Lokar e-break instead of FF
Driver and passenger foot vent (manual)
Russ Thompson gas pedal kit (instead of FF)
Breeze radiator shroud, cowl cover, mounting kit
AC pedal pads
heated seats with buttons on the side of the trans tunnel (so they're not very obvious)
Herbs door panels
reverse lights integrated with the rear license light
The default FF vintage seat, but redone with better lumbar support (and may be the Breeze mount)

Useful changes
Cockpit rear storage between seats
Ball mount under the dash for the phone
USB ports (not visible)
wireless phone charging tray (not visible)
cup holders (visible and not period correct. Whatever)
Drop trunk
+ and some other safety and comfort mods

Other things I am debating:
  • where to put the battery
  • whether to use an aftermarket seat (may be get the Kirkley Vintage bucket seat aluminum and get it upholstered locally).

I've gone through almost all the build threads in two forums. I've been obsessively researching and have learned so much from so many of you. Thank you for the valuable resource. Looking forward to doing the build thread of my own once I get my kit.
 

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Congrats! Sounds like a great build plan!
 

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Awesome! You’re going to love it!
 

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I've been thinking about this for almost 2 decades (since 2002). The time was never right and it still isn't. But I realize if I keep waiting for the right time, I might never do it.

So put in the order last month and finally got a date (of September!!!)

I am using the 1967 Shelby Cobra 427 S/C CSX3042 (link: 1967 Shelby 427 S/C Cobra Roadster | F128 | Indy 2019 | Mecum Auctions) as my inspiration. My goal is not to blindly replicate it, but limit myself to changes that I'd reasonably make had I bought the car in 1967 (eg: I've been known to black out chromes or replace blacked out parts with chromes, install USB, install heated seats, etc).

Here's my build plan, please feel free to comment so I can learn from the hive!

Basic
302. Not sure which configuration yet. Mated to either T5 if basic 302 or TKX.
IRS for comfort
Power steering
Heat & weather stripping and insulation everywhere appropriate

Exterior
Gas-n mirror-polished touring exhaust with drummer-mike heat shield (also the gas-n headers)
Chrome plated driver and passenger roll bars
LED headlights that maintain the period-correct look
Dual roll-bar tonneau cover
Passenger grab handle
wind wings and sun visors

Interior
S/C layout (obviously) with Smith gauges (electric instead of mechanical)
^ all period-correct buttons and knobs
Period correct shifter handle with the T
Lokar e-break instead of FF
Driver and passenger foot vent (manual)
Russ Thompson gas pedal kit (instead of FF)
Breeze radiator shroud, cowl cover, mounting kit
AC pedal pads
heated seats with buttons on the side of the trans tunnel (so they're not very obvious)
Herbs door panels
reverse lights integrated with the rear license light
The default FF vintage seat, but redone with better lumbar support (and may be the Breeze mount)

Useful changes
Cockpit rear storage between seats
Ball mount under the dash for the phone
USB ports (not visible)
wireless phone charging tray (not visible)
cup holders (visible and not period correct. Whatever)
Drop trunk
+ and some other safety and comfort mods

Other things I am debating:
  • where to put the battery
  • whether to use an aftermarket seat (may be get the Kirkley Vintage bucket seat aluminum and get it upholstered locally).

I've gone through almost all the build threads in two forums. I've been obsessively researching and have learned so much from so many of you. Thank you for the valuable resource. Looking forward to doing the build thread of my own once I get my kit.

Hi

FYI
I made a panel from a spare piece of aluminum plate about 6 inches wide and deep enough that it goes from the 1" square tube bottom support that runs across the width of the car behind the dash. I attached it to the framing with a length of piano hinge and trimmed it to reach the bottom lip of the dash board. It is attached to the dash panel with a couple of small bolts, this will really stiffen the bottom of the dash. Simply remove the two small bolts, hinge the panel down and you have a great surface for mounting all kinds of hidden switches that are invisible when the panel is in place. I have heated seat switches, one for my heated vest, a couple of under dash LED lights and a charger plug, all out of sight when bolted in place.

Hope my description makes sense, unfortunately my car is stored away for the winter so I can't post a picture.

I went with the Kirkey Vintage seat on the driver's side and added foam padding under the cover.

BTW, your build sounds good.

Allan
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi

FYI
I made a panel from a spare piece of aluminum plate about 6 inches wide and deep enough that it goes from the 1" square tube bottom support that runs across the width of the car behind the dash. I attached it to the framing with a length of piano hinge and trimmed it to reach the bottom lip of the dash board. It is attached to the dash panel with a couple of small bolts, this will really stiffen the bottom of the dash. Simply remove the two small bolts, hinge the panel down and you have a great surface for mounting all kinds of hidden switches that are invisible when the panel is in place. I have heated seat switches, one for my heated vest, a couple of under dash LED lights and a charger plug, all out of sight when bolted in place.
Genius, simply genius. I love it and might copy it :). Did I say genius already? Would love to see the pictures when your car is out of storage.

I went with the Kirkey Vintage seat on the driver's side and added foam padding under the cover.
Are you the person who shaved off the sides? How do you like it? Any pictures of the interior with the seat? I'll start another thread for my seat options.
 

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Hi

I found a picture of the panel during construction, it's not very clear but you can see the bare panel extending back from the cross member. The piano hinge is hidden by the heat shield, however no switches have been installed at this point. Obviously it makes wiring easy as well.
Second picture taken shortly after it was completed. FYI I bought a 302 for $600, put in a mild cam, carburetor and aluminum heads and ran it for 2 years like that. Then hauled the engine and had Jesse at Mike Fortes do a full 331 stroker kit 7 years ago, 375 HP, with a ton of torque.
I don't have any seat pictures but the Kirkey was a huge improvement over the stock seat, I bought camping foam from MEC and fiddled with the padding till I got what I liked.
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