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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My rebuild is coming along, engine in but new bbk headers are a big issue. Engine is level but driver side exhaust sits 2" higher than passenger side. Anyone else have that big of a difference? I am not interested in shifting engine, and I don't think the breeze flange spacers can make up that much difference. First round of chats with ffr and bbk have not provided workable solutions. Any help would be appreciated.

Tim
 

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Anyone else have that big of a difference? I am not interested in shifting engine

Any help would be appreciated.
Not sure why you don't want to shift the engine, but that is one of the best and easiest solutions.

It really takes very little rotational movement of the engine to make that right. Probably less than 1/4" at the valve covers...

Remember, you only need one inch down (because the passenger side is moving 1" up at the same time).

*Usually* the engine just ends up wherever the motor mounts wedge into the frame mounts - and that's *usually* the wrong place...

The best solution I've got,

Mike
 

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Bbk

I had to rotate mine less than 1/4" (measured by the slot in the motor mount to lower the right side 2".

Kevin
 

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My rebuild is coming along, engine in but new bbk headers are a big issue. Engine is level but driver side exhaust sits 2" higher than passenger side.
Is that the difference measured at the very end of the side pipes? You can buy wedges of varying thickness, so it may be possible to lower the higher one just using the wedge. Like with the engine shifting, a 1/4" wedge can also change the position quite significantly. Might have to try a few different size wedges to get the pipe where you want it.

If it's then still a "slight" difference side to side, I wouldn't fret to much, as you only see one side of the car at a time..:)
 

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What did you use for spacer for the transmission mount?
If you only have what I think you have (2" higher on DS header, measured from the end of the header to the ground?) - I would be very surprised if you could see any difference (whatsoever) at the transmission mount.

1- There's flex in the a-frame transmission mount available. As soon as it has the weight of the transmission on it - it will probably be touching on both sides anyway.

2- Flexible tranny mount? It will take up the slack.

3- Even with a solid fabricated tranny mount the difference should be less than the thickness of a standard washer. Put one in if needed.


Mike


P.S. You're just moving it the least little (itty bitty) bit - try it. What exactly do you have to lose by trying it???
 

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Another vote for rotating the engine in the frame mount slots. You'll find that it takes very little movement at the mounts (like 1/8") to equal big changes at the end of the headers.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mike E.: that is one ugly thread on the header subject. I find it interesting (disappointing) that my conversations with ffr and bbk were identical to the other car owners.

My body is off. When I measure from the end of the side pipes to the ground (bottom of pipe) passenger is 5", driver is 7". Can anyone send their measurements to see how that compares and how your pipes went thru the body. Mine is a mkii, and when I had j-pipes (very adjustable) I remember that measurement ranging from 4 1/2" to 5". Thanks.

tim
 

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I had to re-level my engine after the body was on. I only loosened the trans mount bolts to allow some movement. You also will need to install the elephant ears as well to get proper alignment. And the icing on the cake was adding the Breeze wedges to get the pipes to align down the body. After all that I still had to cut my ps exhaust opening as it was cut too close to the wheel opening. I had to cut out an inch from the back side of the exhaust opening and glass in a piece on the front side. It wasn't that hard to do. I think it was a minor mistake by FFR when they cut the opening. It seems a lot of people are having similar issues with the exhaust, but if it was too easy it wouldn't be any fun.

Gerry.
 

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Not sure why you don't want to shift the engine, but that is one of the best and easiest solutions.

It really takes very little rotational movement of the engine to make that right. Probably less than 1/4" at the valve covers...

Remember, you only need one inch down (because the passenger side is moving 1" up at the same time).

*Usually* the engine just ends up wherever the motor mounts wedge into the frame mounts - and that's *usually* the wrong place...

The best solution I've got,

Mike
100% agreed...
 

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Tim. Personally I wouldnt do anything else until you mount the body. Even if you just bolt down the sides. Then look and see where the side pipes end up in relation to the body. If i am not mistaken your car is alredy painted. Would suck to have to cut into a painted body.
If the passenger side comes out normal, then rotating the engine will cause problems on the passenger side. Another option would be to slot the driver side engine mount and move it closer to the block. This will allow the driver side to drop a bit. Gotta tell you though, I tried all these tricks and nothing was going to bring the driver side header into place without either cutting the engine mounts off the frame or reworking the header. I chose to rework the header.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
First I want to thank all respondents regardless of suggested approach. I have a very nicely painted SRP body that I don't want to "alter" based on this header issue. I plan on full documentation and have the benefit of access to other ffr cars with the hooker headers for comparison (off car). I am sure this will work out in the long run, all other issues in the past have been dealt with. Part of this problem is because of my own "need for speed" greed because of the hp loss from the j-pipes that I previously had (but on a new dart block bored to 363).

I stood under the car today, trying to envision the "engine shift" option - I am still struggling with this since I somewhat mis-spoke because the engine is already shifted downward towards the driver side which is 2" higher as previously stated. Sorry for the mistake.

tim
 

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Use slightly smaller diameter bolts to attach side pipes to headers, thus allowing the side pipes to rotate up or down a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think we are headed to Mike's solution unless we swap a header for figment prior to final welding.

tim
 

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Did you ever figure out your header fitment issue? I am currently building a Dart block 363 and I am thinking about switching from J-pipes to the FFR headers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ehodger: your engine set-up very similar to mine. Dart iron eagle 363, Brodie heads, good luck with the headers.

Tim
 
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