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Senior Charter Member
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574 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks guys for all your ideas and help. I finished my "dress up" project, hooked the battery up, turned the key and..... nothing! Used a 12 volt tester to "follow the path" and still couldn't find anything wrong. Decided that the ignition switch neeeded further check, removed it, checked it, reinstalled it and hit the trial switches again. Everything worked. Happy for a resolution but stumped as to whathappened and not sure this is over....

No, I don't have any relays in the ignition system! Am I missing something here? AA Autowire didn't call out for anything..

Turns out my ignition wire is on the neg side of the battery switch. I may have had the battery switch on after all. Now I'm confused as the the chain of events. :rolleyes:


So I'm doing some little things to the "chassis" preparing for another body install. One of my "things to do" was to "neat" up the wiring "pile" above the pedal box. I had switched off the electrical shut off switch and all was going fine untill I unfastened the ignition wiring from the switch. BANNG, fssst, sparks and fire! Sparks and current went thru the ground system followinga path thru instruments. The wire at the end of the path to the ground has badly burnt insulation.

Question: Did I just buy new instruments or were they unharmed? It will be a while before I can hook all up to try them out and I would like to sleep tonight...

[ August 08, 2007, 07:27 AM: Message edited by: Wantdat ]
 

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Premium Member
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18,585 Posts
It depends on how many amps went thru them. Obviously, they're designed for 12v and that's all you applied but the dead short could have applied the full battery and that's a lot of amps.

I know you're way past your original build, but this is one of the reasons I recommend guys use a battery charger when they're doing their initial wiring (or diet). Most chargers will shutdown with maybe 20 amps tops. Your battery will give everything it's got.

d



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FFCobra Craftsman
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You can test the instruments one at a time with a 12V drill battery. Power and ground, the needle should peg to one end of the scale. Touch the signal wire to the ground side of the battery and the needle should peg to the other side of the scale. That method should work for oil pressure and oil and water temp. The voltmeter, obviously, doesn't require a signal wire to test. The tach and speedo I'm not sure about how to test.
I don't understand why there was power at the ignition switch if the battery cut-off was in the off position??
 

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Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, You've helped me to become optimistic. I have also noticed that aside from one ground wire fried, there appears to be no further damage or evidence of my scary incident. I especially appreciate the info on testing and I"ll be sure to post the results.

Paul: I'm not sure how this happened but I think the "spark" came thru the starter connection. I wired the starter motor to the battery side of the cut off switch. Was this wrong???
 

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Premium Member
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Yes, as you may have completely bypassed your cutoff switch in wiring it this way. What else is connected to that terminal?
 

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Runs with scissors!
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562 Posts
Originally posted by Mark Reid:
Yes, as you may have completely bypassed your cutoff switch in wiring it this way. What else is connected to that terminal?
I agree. The only things that should be connected to the battery side of the disconnect switch are:

1) the lead from the + battery terminal
2) the output lead from the alternator (so that if you need to use the disconnect to shut off the engine the alternator cannot backfeed current into the ignition circuit)
3) the lead for your "memory saver" jumper fuse (which should be fused at 1 amp or less)

Anything else defeats the purpose of installing the switch.
 

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Senior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ttt

I have a solenoid and there appears to be a fusible link in one of the wires to the starter. As you may hve guessed I'm somewhat electrically challenged... :)
 
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