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Discussion Starter #1
Worked an overtime shift and am finally in a position to build the engine I originally wanted for my car. I have been shopping for a 331 stroker kit and have narrowed the options to two. One with an Eagle crankshaft and one with a Scat. All other components are the same and the only difference is the Eagle is about $100 cheaper. Online reviews on the Eagle are mixed with some crankshaft failures while the Scat reviews all seem positive. The bad Eagle reviews seem to be from people that may have not installed the correct balancer and flywheel (50oz vs 28oz) and broke the crankshaft. Looking for recommendations from the more knowledgeable group found here.

I will also be converting to a Holley Sniper EFI and new distributor during this upgrade. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Norm
 
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I have a Scat 331 rotating assembly in my 331 with a Kenne Bell on it and have had no issues. Very happy with the quality, all clearances measured virtually spot on when I assembled the short block.
 

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RPM brand cranks for SBF are apparently one of the best fit and finish according to a fe engine builders.
Check out Woody at Fordstrokers he uses them swears by them etc and has an great reputation for building stoked SBFs.
Also check out this thread The Body Shop had an in depth review with pics of the quality of finish work on the different cranks and it was clear to my layman's eye, but I cant find it right now. He also does DIY kits machined checked and ready to build
 

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I have an Eagle cast steel stroker crank in my 351w and I've had no issue. I don't track my car though.

I know one of the main considerations is selecting the correct bearing profile. Chamfered bearings for .125" bearing journal radii and non-chamfered (factory style) bearings for .092" bearing journal radii.

Sean
 

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Woody at Fordstrokers.com didn't have anything nice to say about Eagle. He sold me on a SCAT crank and rods. There is no way Woody installed the wrong balancer. Your rotating assembly is not the place to save $100.

Any reason for not going to 347?
 

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I have been running a Pertronix Igniter III and it has been solid. Multi-spark, and rev limiter all inside. No external boxes to wire up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies. The difference in price doesn't really matter to me. Summit Racing offers the Eagle setup while CNC and Jegs offer the Scat. I have dealt a lot with Summit and prefer doing business with them but, some bad reviews of Eagle had me concerned a little.

This is the distributor I am leaning towards Holley Sniper EFI 565-301 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Distributor – Ford Small Block (260/289/302). It is plug and play with the Sniper. There are no reviews yet that I can find. Anyone here have any experience with it?
 

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The Hyper Spark is a good choice, however be aware the cam gear is cast iron and must be replaced if you are running a hydraulic roller. The dual sync distributor might be a better choice. It's more expensive but comes with a steel gear so not much of a price difference.
 

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SCAT in mine, very happy, 2nd motor with it. First one blew up when it swallowed a valve, rotating mass lived, except for that conn rod. Pic added. Most cheaper rods would have broken, this one punched a hole in the side of the block, just bent!

I have the FITECH, AFR 185 heads, healthy cam, this thing rocks!!!! Deep muscular exhaust too. My car is tracked, pulls like a monster, I keep the rev limiter at 5800 to be safe.
 

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357242
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Chepsk8 that is quite a failure. Where did the piston and wrist pin go!
Think I have decided on a Scat assembly from CNC.
Note to part suppliers. An easy to navigate and view website that allows the customer to easily select options, ie a flywheel vs a flex plate, goes a long way towards making a sale.

Now to get the engine out, disassembled and to the machine shop. Won’t order any parts until they give the block a passing grade.
 

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I too run a Scat stroker, very happy with my choice. Just be sure you have the same balance for all parts. As I was building everything from new, I went with a zero balance crank with the same for the flywheel and balancer.
 

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357243


This is all that was left of the piston!
 

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Another SCAT user here, all forged with internal balance.

I went straight to SCAT, and they matched Summit or Jegs pricing.

Norm , are you planning on a forged SCAT or cast ?

Also, I would not trust SCAT in house balancing. Have it balanced with the full rotating weights on it .
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Chepsk8, I think that qualifies as a catastrophic failure. At least the wrist pin looks reusable ?

Rich, that was one of my prerequisites. A complete balanced assembly. CNC will provide it balanced with a balancer and flywheel. There may be an extra charge if any heavy metal is required but, thats fine with me as it makes building the engine easier.
 

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"Chepsk8, I think that qualifies as a catastrophic failure. At least the wrist pin looks reusable ?"

The crank was actually fine after the Kaboom! I was able to sell it after having it checked. Tough stuff that SCAT kit.
 

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Many moons ago I spun a bearing in my 351. I called Scat to talk about their cranks. He recommended their cast steel. Talking a little more I asked if I should maybe upgrade to a forged crank. He asks if I will be getting over 700HP from my 351. I stumbled a little and said no but why do you ask. He says that is the limit for their cast steel crank. Uh, let's buy cast steel then.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for that information Craig. I was planning the cast crank anyway. I am not planning on any power adders and I know the weakest link in the engine will be the stock Ford block.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Progress is being made. Thanks to all that posted about engine removal on a completed car in a previous thread. The engine is out and stripped down to a bare block. Working another overtime shift so, the block will go to the machine shop on Wednesday.
IMG_1274.jpeg
 
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