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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Ok I seems to take the tapper all the way to the end

Plus I think the bolts I received are coarse thread 14 I think
 

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They say a picture is worth a thousand words---here's some of both
Jeff, Thanks for the pictures and text.

jhargrove, As you tap, remember to use a cutting fluid and back cut every half or three quarter forward cut. To keep from fouling the threads when removing the tap, brush off the cuttings on the back side before backing out. If you have a larger drill bit use it to hand cut a slight chamfer and then study the thread slots to make sure they are true coming out of the hole. Attention to small details will help make the threads cleaner. You could also blow out the hole as you tap to clean out the debri so it wouldn't get caught in the taping process. Then add more cutting fluid. Go past the taper on the tap to make sure you have a full cut thread.

George
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Jeff, Thanks for the pictures and text.

jhargrove, As you tap, remember to use a cutting fluid and back cut every half or three quarter forward cut. To keep from fouling the threads when removing the tap, brush off the cuttings on the back side before backing out. If you have a larger drill bit use it to hand cut a slight chamfer and then study the thread slots to make sure they are true coming out of the hole. Attention to small details will help make the threads cleaner. You could also blow out the hole as you tap to clean out the debri so it wouldn't get caught in the taping process. Then add more cutting fluid. Go past the taper on the tap to make sure you have a full cut thread.

George
Awesome ? I will do this
20200330_133041.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Lol found my helping competent hands.

I like this set up. Ready to tap the holes but I have to go to work. Tomorrow.

I will need two shims forsure
20200330_135946.jpg

20200330_135922.jpg
 

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In regards to the upper side arm not fitting like you think it should. I've seen some worse than that posted here. Some need a bit of massaging to get a better fit. Depends on how much feeling you have for shaping metal. I got mine out today and looks like I'll have to work them a bit to properly fit that curve. I'll start out slow to achieve minimal movement with maybe a rubber mallet, of which I've got several different ones of different harnesses, over a padded curved steel stake. I may move to a dead blow hammer depending on how that works. I've had great success shaping aluminum with the dead blow hammer. Just have to be careful not to go too far, bending in the right part of the curve and protecting the chrome. Just go real slow.
George
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
GWL thanks for the response.

I will think about this.

I do not know if I would have the skill to do this. With practice I'm sure.

I guess the worst thing is I would buy new ones.
 

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Did you back the tap up every 1/4 turn to break off the small pieces? Did you lube the tap? There may be a better lube because of the brass alloy but I usually use gear oil. The thickness helps keep it on the tap rather than just wicking away. I also have a tap lube which is like a soft crayon but I am usually working w/ steel. Put it on your list for your next McMaster order.
 

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I will add this too.
20190402_092159 by craig stuard, on Flickr
The mounts on the frame are parallel in both front view and top view. So the mount arms need to be bent to accommodate that. It's not good to do while the posts are attached to the w/s so there is some bending and checking needed. This and proper shim thickness will keep the w/s from being mounted w/ stress in the glass.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Did you back the tap up every 1/4 turn to break off the small pieces? Did you lube the tap? There may be a better lube because of the brass alloy but I usually use gear oil. The thickness helps keep it on the tap rather than just wicking away. I also have a tap lube which is like a soft crayon but I am usually working w/ steel. Put it on your list for your next McMaster order.
I will do these things.

Thank you
Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #32
the mount arms need to be bent to accommodate that. It's not good to do while the posts are attached to the w/s so there is some bending and checking needed. This and proper shim thickness will keep the w/s from being mounted w/ stress in the glass.
[/QUOTE]

Ok. I will try to follow these instructions.

Thank you

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #33
This is just about finished. Some tweeking forsure. There is some play to make some adjustments if people are not aware. Tapping the holes made things so much easier.

I bent the arms and got them close to 90. And when I did this I really did not need shims.

I need to find the right tool to torque down the DS bolts better. The ratched was to o long and the snub wrench was too close. I thought I got them tight removed my support and the screen shifted. So when I find that I will losen the bolts set it up again and tighten it down.

I ended up about 1/4 inch off because of that and I did not notice the my DS corner can come down a little. All this can be done with the bolts losened.
Thanks for all the help.

I am going to update my build thread for my purpose so some repeat there I will not add all the verbage.

I think I will take time and clean the garage looks horrible in the background.
20200331_140051.jpg
20200331_140310.jpg
20200331_140326.jpg

Jason
 
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