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Is it just brake line cut to length? I need the piece that goes between the motor and the passenger side wheel box. It is too short and the cable is coming out of the motor and not sliding into the tubing anymore. It actually bends upward toward the car body. So the wipers don't work right. If I hold the tube straight with my hand it works fine. So I need a tube. Any suggestions. Moss Maybe?



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CC :
I helped NiceGuyEddie with his and from what I recall it appeared to be 1/4 inch brake line that you cut to length and give it a little arc.
The end that goes into the passenger wheel box should have a single flare( supposed to help the cable turn)and then be secured.
HTH
Paul M.
 

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I used a piece of the fuel line supplied in the kit
 

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It's 3/8 aluminum tubing that's supplied, but copper would probably work. It's supposed to be flared and fastened to the nose of the motor with the steel flare nut. The nut has to be drilled out to suit.

After flaring the tubing and attaching to the motor, the piece is marked and cut to make another flare at the wheel-box end. It's difficult to get the exact length, but it has to be real close. The wheel box clamp holds onto the flared end.

The cable is greasy. The wheel-boxes have to be fed all the way down the cable.
 

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ff cobra master craftsman
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some people use copper tubing, you can get it in a roll at home depot in the plumbing section. it is softer then the aluminum so it is easier to bend. i remember i had to put a single flare on mine and slipt it troough the nut that gets attached to the motor.
 

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Pretty hard. Like an 8 or so.
If I lived in the mountains, I'd saw a piece of 1/2" copper tubing in half lengthwise, and clamp it in place over top of the old tubing end and the nose of the motor.
Then wrap it with aluminum tape to hide it.
 

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As Convincor just said, 3/8 brake line tubing works great. I had to enlarge the hole of the nut that bolts to the motor from 5/16 to 3/8(not sure if they all come that way or if mine was a fluke).
Packed the tube(s) with white grease and they work perfect.
 

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To put the new tube on the nut, at the motor, you have to take existing tubes off the whole cable too. Just loosen the clamps at the wheelboxes and slide tubes off. Should not be difficult...just a little time consuming. You can buy a flaring tool in the plumbing department at Lowes. Not expensive.
 

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I don't think so, Mumblerone.
The cable doesn't come out of the wheel-box from the side. They have to be slid all the way down and off the end of the cable, meaning they have to be removed from the body first. PITA
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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You need to take both wheel boxes off along with all the tubing. Before dismantling get a measurement of the lenth needed between motor and p side wheel box. Flare one end,slide the nut on that connects tube to the motr,before flaring second end otherwise it won't go on.Aluminum or copper works a little better since you can bend it easyer to make your radius that follows the cowls radius.

Before going threw all this check and see if you have enough romm to loosen the band that holds the motor to the firewall to move it closer to the wheel box. May be able to move it far enough so no new tubing needs to be cut.
 

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Always willing to learn something. I installed my wipers after car was complete and painted! Fun thing. :( They are FFR. After I got the motor mounted and the wheelboxes on, (another fun job with paint on :D ) I strung the cable and cut the tubes to length, carefully, starting at the electric motor. As said, the nut on the motor has to be drilled out, then the flare put on. I can't see how this tube could be replaced without the other two tubes being slide off cable first!

The main cable can be dropped from wheelboxes by taking two screws off each wheelbox and removing the plate. Then slide end tube and center tube off...finally the tube and nut we're talking about. What am I missing?
 

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Originally posted by Mumblerone:

The main cable can be dropped from wheelboxes by taking two screws off each wheelbox and removing the plate. Then slide end tube and center tube off...finally the tube and nut we're talking about. What am I missing?
The cable will not come out of the wheel boxes by taking off the bottom plate.You have to remove the the towers completly and then slide(thread) them off the end,then install the tube from the motor, the pass tower,the tube to the drivers side tower, then a short piece of tubing to pick up the end of the cable. Install both bottom plates back on the towers(finger tight) Loosely install the towers back into the cowl, and catch the nut on the motor, tighten the nut to the motor, tighten the towers,tighten the lower plates and then go back and tighten everything up and your done.
See picture by Convincor
 

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I certainly read the referenced threads. I assure you I did not have to thread the wire through the wheelboxes. The tubes and threaded cable were installed with wheelboxes on the car. There is quite a bit of up/down motion on the wheelbox shaft. I must have had more clearence to get the cable on the wheel. Interesting. Thanks.
 
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