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Jack of all trades
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who is using the Wilwood master cylinder for brakes? How are you finding them for stopping compared to the mustang MC? I may have to go this route, as I am also going with a hydraulic clutch, and their system looks like the way to go. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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Still in the build process with it. I'm sure someone will chime in.
 

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Arctic,
I'm building with the Wilwood M/C and Hydraulic clutch. Can't comment on how they stop yet. I should be go-karting in a couple of weeks and will keep you posted on the stopping part. My installation is with 13" front, 10.65" rear Cobra brakes. Are you going with Wilwood calipers too? From what I see, the Wilwood caliper is four piston and the disk diameter is 12" front and rear. The Cobra calipers are 2 piston front and 1 piston rear will work a little different than the Wilwood.

I used the M/C package from Forte's that includes the custom bracket to hang the M/C from the 3/4" tube at the top of the drivers side pedal box. The installation is pretty slick. I also used his pull-type clutch slave cyl. Another nice piece and easy to install. Here are some pics. Click on the image to enlarge.

I'm buttoned up on top of the drivers side footbox, so I couldn't get a good picture. This is one I found while researching the installation and looks identical.



This is mine taken from the footbox.


Pull type clutch slave


Regards,
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks good Pete. I haven't decided on a caliper/disc set up yet - was wondering how people found the system and what they used. I have the Mark II version of the kit, so my steering shaft comes out the side of the footbox, but that shouldn't be much of an issue (I hope).

Tom
 

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Pete,

I'm a first time builder, and not as far along in the build as you are but can the clutch slave be hard wired like that?
 

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Pete

I have to agree with David. In the picture it seems the hydraulic lines have no flex couplings. You will have a problem with the hydraulic lines and relative movement of the engine/tranny combo. You could go with the braided stainless couplers.
 

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David and CPA,
Thanks for the input guys. I agree with you. It should be plumbed with braided stainless. No troubles ... what's one more order from Summit! I'm now thinking about terminating the hard line at the 4" main tube across from the slave cy. Then run a short braided line from the adapter to the clutch slave. Sound good?

Arctic,
Best bet on choosing a system is to talk to the experts. There are plenty on the board that I have to thank for their help. Also, the suppliers are great. I recommend Disk-brakes-R-Us, Breeze and Forte's for brake questions. They are all top notch. The Forte bracket is designed for the MK-III frame. He may have one for the MK-II. You'll need to call and find out. The choice of calipers depends on you. The 13" fronts locks you into 17" wheels for clearance. The 12" wilwoods will let you use 15" halibrand wheels ... more authentic, better ride, but worse handling. Your call.

Regards,
Pete
 

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Arctic Cobra,

The auto manufacturers really tune the pedals, master cylinders, proportioning valves, etc. to the specific car they are being applied. Basically, the master cylinders and stock proportioning valve are sized specifically for a 3,500# car with the stock calipers and rotors.

Wilwood, on the other hand, produces components for a wide variety of racing and street applications. You can purchase different size master cylinders for different applications or combinations. A quick call to Willwood tech dept will get you on the right track with your specific combination.

I would imagine Forte's kit will hook you up with the correct master cylinders for the cobra, but a call to Wilwood with your specific components will dial you right in. I am sure Mike would substitute the "requested" master cylinder sizes with his kit.

A couple advantages I can think of are: (1) Redundancy - you have two separate master cylinders acting independantly. If one goes, you still have the other one to get you stopped. (2) Bias control - With Wilwood, you can have a cockpit controlled brake bias to tune the brakes to different situations or fine tune for best performance while driving (very inexpensive option). (3)Tuneability - As you make changes to your vehicle such as larger brakes, you can very easily change the master cylinders out to coordinate with the new changes. These are very inexpensive as well.

I think this is a smart upgrade.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tom:

Thanks for you input. I will give Wilwood a call next week to see what they say. I have been a little disappointed with the stock mustang setup, and since I now have the car completely apart to install the new engine/tranny, I thought I would address this issue as well.

Tom
 

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I have installed the Wilwood kit I got the whole setup from Mike Forte. I like it, getting it to work (I have never done brakes before) was interesting. I think I still have some things to do with it, I find it doesn't stop on a dime so I can only assume I haven't got the bias adjusted as well as I could, but I did have some trouble with hard lines to the MC's. I am hard line all the way to the brake calipers. The clutch is hard line down, then a soft line to the hydraulic slave at the clutch (I purchased this from Mike Forte as well). I like the setup, but personally I would have went with the Mustang setup, but my wife wanted to drive the car and to be honest, I thought the system looked 'cool' so I purchased it. Would I do it again? Well ask me that after I get it all working as well as it can. I am go-karting and with the system would lock it up a with a bit less effort. Some tweaking and I think I can achieve that.
 

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Ed K,

There are a lot of variables in gaining full performance from your set-up. Air in the system is very common. Your pads must be "bedded" in prior to full performance, something that is hard to do in go-cart stage. What components are you using for calipers, rotors and pad compounds? Do you know what size MC's you have?

With the correct components and set-up, the wilwood should easily out perform a stock set-up. One must consider the difference of going to manual brakes with no booster. Although it takes more effort to lock up the wheels, it should be possible. The manual brakes offer better modulation as a reward for the extra effort.

If you do not get it working properly, I would suggest reviewing your set up with Tech at Wilwood. Just have rotor sizes, tire sizes, vehicle weight, caliper info (number of pistons and size in mm), etc. They will be able to get you straight if something is off.
 

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Went with all Wilwood, 6 piston in the front and 4 in the back. Setup is from Levy Racing:

 
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