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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering who is using the ISIS electrical system in the GTM? I'm on my second install, and I'm thinking of coming up with (guess what?)...some laser cut alum mounting panels for the Mastercell and Powercells. Let's face it, finding a flat place on the GTM big enough that all 4 MC and PC bolt holes fall on that surface is pretty difficult. I'm thinking of having one made that specifically locates the MC under the dash, where FFR has you mount the Painless fuse-block. Then make some other "universal" plates that are basically just a flat outline of the Powercells so you can rivet this alum panel to a frame tube where ever you choose to mount it, and then mount the PC to this plate. What do you guys think?
 

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I am using the ISIS. I made basic pieces for my MC and front PC mounting plates, but for the rear I am mounting with hex stand-offs screwed into the flat on the driver's side of the engine compartment (I wanted the stand-offs to get better airflow to the heat sink side)...not sure I like what I have done so far. The front PC I am using the space where the stock washer fluid tank would be. Nothing trick, so I wouldn't mind taking a look at a sleeker solution.
 

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kbentzel has the ISIS in his GTM. Jay Harris and the the guys of Two Guys Garage did the install.
 

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It's not wired yet, but I'm using the full 3 cell and dash system. Sounds like a nice idea. I seem to be in a constant line for your parts...

Let me know when you're ready to sell them.
 

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Just waiting for the Isis to arrive - it should be here any day now and then I will be starting the install. What kind of time frame are you looking at on these parts? If it can be done soon, I would be interested, I like your quality work - if we can't get it in time for this build, it will be on my list for the next build. thanks,
don
 

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I have the three cell kit. I mounted the rear PC the same way mmaragos did. The front PC I mounted under the passenger dash pod and the MC is mounted where the Painless fuse block would go. I think the plates are a good idea Shane my only problem with my MC location is you have to stand on your head under the dash to see the display if your doing any troubleshooting or if you make any programming changes :001_huh:Oh and for the record VD2021 the Two Guys Garage 'install' was the magic of television:yes:
 

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Shane,

Sorry to side step your question with a question (but it might drum up others to buy the ISIS system thus needed some lasercut panels from you :) )

What are the benefits to using it? What are the negatives?
 

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Shane,

Sorry to side step your question with a question (but it might drum up others to buy the ISIS system thus needed some lasercut panels from you :) )

What are the benefits to using it? What are the negatives?
The ISIS system is designed to "clean up" the wiring installation in your car. By using a master cell in a strategic area, such as under the dash, and remote power cell to other areas of the car, you significantly reduce the amount of wire that you actually run throughout your car. This has a couple of benefits in that it allows you to hide wiring much easier, and keep exposed wiring much neater. As well as the fact that the shorter the wires, the stronger the electrical circuit.

Another key benefit is that if you ever have something go wrong; let's say a headlight stops working or something similar, the cells have LCD's that pulse, to tell you where your issues may be. So you don't have to trace each wire individually to find the cause of the problem. It'll direct you to the specific area that you should start looking.

For me, those were the two main reasons that I decided to go with it.

So with more and more people deciding to use this system, it makes good sense that someone like Shane or any of the other Vendors would offer mounting plates to use for easier installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my only problem with my MC location is you have to stand on your head under the dash to see the display if your doing any troubleshooting or if you make any programming changes
I agree there, but I don't see many other location options, and at least you CAN see and access the display if you need to, without having to disassemble anything. You'd have to do the same thing to access the Painless fuse box, and if the system is as bullet-proof as they say, once it's installed and programmed, there shouldn't be any need to crawl under there again anyway?!...I hope!:yes:

Linxs,

AFAIC, the biggest benefits of the ISIS system are:

1. It's programmable, so you can do stuff like control electric motor speed, soft start for lights, timed pulsed power for things like door poppers, timers for lights, etc.

2. Single wire hook-up to do a "one button push-button start" like most new cars have now.....no added relays, no special modules.....just hook up the appropriate wire to your start button and you're done!

3. Built in security with the InLink remote funcions. When you arm the system with the key-fob, it automatically disables the start and ignition functions....or door poppers, or whatever else you want disabled when you arm the system.

4. A system that monitors battery voltage and automatically disconnects the battery power when voltage drops below 12.2V......you can still hard-wire things like your PCM memory and stereo memory to B+, but it will shut everything else down, so you can ALWAYS start the car......it can't run your battery flat.

Basically, it just allows you to bring the electrical system into this century and have it operate like a new production car. With the Painless system, the car is wired like cars have been wired for nearly a century now.......for me it just gives the whole car a more modern "feel".

I'm not sold that it's easier to install by any means, and finding places for the controllers can be a challenge. It's definitely not a requirement for these cars, just a really "nice to have" option.
 

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very interesting. looks like we can get either the 2 cell or the 3 cell? which one do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've been installing the 3-cell kit. This gives you one Powercell for the front of the car (lights, turn sig, horn, power to dash, etc) and one Powercell for the Rear of the car (brake lights, turn, ignition, start, etc)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm thinking something like this:





The plate in the photos is slightly oversize of the body of the MC/PC housing, but the laser-cut parts would be pretty much actual size of the MC/PC with a bit of extra material around the screw holes so you could drill them and install thread-serts if you like. The holes to attach the PC/MC will already be laser-cut into the part to accept a #10 screw, and as I said, there would be plenty of meat there to drill those out for a thread-sert/riv-nut if you prefer.

I also have a specific "GTM Mastercell Mount" drawn up designed to mount the MC in the LH corner of the dash....same place FFR instructs you to mount the Painless fuseblock. It already has flanges and tabs that fit the GTM frame, as well as the MC bolt-hole pattern to attach the MC to the plate.

These parts would be made from .080" 6061 alum. I could offer a 3-cell mounting kit (2 universal mounting plates and one GTM Mastercell mount) for about $45. Let me know what you guys think about this. Thanks!
 

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Push button start/stop?

Linxs,

AFAIC, the biggest benefits of the ISIS system are:

1. It's programmable, so you can do stuff like control electric motor speed, soft start for lights, timed pulsed power for things like door poppers, timers for lights, etc.

2. Single wire hook-up to do a "one button push-button start" like most new cars have now.....no added relays, no special modules.....just hook up the appropriate wire to your start button and you're done!

QUOTE]


Shane,
Is the key still required for the push button start/stop with the ISIS? I ask because in my planning I have come across a system that functions like production systems. Installed in the GTM (VATS and steering lock disabled) The key would just be back up.

thanks,
Vidal
 

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I would assume you would want to install a key in series so that you have to have the key to "on" and then press the start pushbutton. This is how I would do it anyway, just my two cents!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No key required....In fact, I have not built a GTM that needed (or even had a use for) a key at all. Not even sure how or what you'd use the key for, as far as a back-up? All you have is the remote key-fobs (like any new car) and a start button in the dash. Hitting the "lock" button on the remote disables whatever systems you choose (starter and ignition by default, as well as door poppers or whatever else you like). Hitting "unlock" on the key-fob will enable those functions, and let you press the start button to start the car (press and hold for 2 seconds to crank the engine, or simply press and release to just power up the ignition and not start the engine). Release the button when the engine is started. Press and release the button again to shut the engine off (and ignition).....just like most new production cars. Hit the "lock" button again, and the car can not be started.
 

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No key required....In fact, I have not built a GTM that needed (or even had a use for) a key at all. Not even sure how or what you'd use the key for, as far as a back-up? All you have is the remote key-fobs (like any new car) and a start button in the dash. Hitting the "lock" button on the remote disables whatever systems you choose (starter and ignition by default, as well as door poppers or whatever else you like). Hitting "unlock" on the key-fob will enable those functions, and let you press the start button to start the car (press and hold for 2 seconds to crank the engine, or simply press and release to just power up the ignition and not start the engine). Release the button when the engine is started. Press and release the button again to shut the engine off (and ignition).....just like most new production cars. Hit the "lock" button again, and the car can not be started.

Thanks. Looks like an ISIS (and your mounting kit) are going into my planned budget.
 

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I have yet another question, for someone who has one of these. Are these things actually 'programmable'? This has been my concern since they first hit the market... Having done industrial controls for twenty years, and having seen huge numbers of 'controller' manufacturers go 'in and out' of the market, leaving behind oceans of 'orphaned' devices, if I buy something that's advertised as programmable, I wanna see some programming software. If in a couple years, I add some cockpit lighting, and a couple PIR sensors to 'detect' legs, I'd like to ensure that I can add "if passenger PIR and not ambient light sensor, then PWM 'ramp up' passenger footwell lighting".

Pending this capability, I'm pretty much planning a few CANbus capable TERN microcontrollers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You might want to contact ISIS on that question. Right now, you have to tell ISIS what you want the system to do, and they program it to do what you say. You can also buy the cables/interface so that ISIS can email you the new code, and you can dump the new code into the Mastercell/Powercells.....but as far as writing your own code.....???
 
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