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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...for a standard width IRS car, 408 or 427W, intended mainly for street use? I've read of some fitment problems with the FFR LCAs, but the complaints seem to be mostly in the past. I know Mike Forte has them, and Ten Turn Racing has nice-looking billet ones. Any suggestions?

Rich
 

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Starting over, I would go:
- FFR pin drive front lowers.
- FFR rear IRS in pin drive width.
- Pin drive Vintage rims
- 15" tires, Goodyear 295/50x15, mount blackwall
- No fitment issues on Mark III

No regrets!

(You asked, Rich!) :rolleyes:
 

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No problems here and would use the ffr lca's again.
The only realy fitment problem if you consider it a problem would be making sure the mounting ears on the frame are paralell once tightened. This is needed reguardless of who's were used.
 

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If I was building now, I'd go with the billet ones, or the stockers if I was on a budget. No real performance advantage to the tubulars, mainly just aesthetic (but who really notices other than you on a car so low to the ground)? The only exception would be if I decided to go pin drive, then you are pretty limited to just the FFR option.

Brian
 

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You are somewhat limited with these.

The FFR arms are no bargain at $500 a pair. The balljoints can come out as they are a press fit and the poly bushings have a grease fitting that leads nowhere.

If you go with the FFR ones, take out the bushing and drill it so grease can penetrate.
also make sure the steel bushing is long enough so the arms don't bind up.

The ball joint ideally should have a small weld added to ensure it doesn't come out.

Stock mustang lowers work well giving the best ride, but they are ugly.

The Turn ten arms look nice but I have not heard how well they work.
 

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I bought Forte's and after 100 miles the passenger side ball joint came all the way loose. The threads were pretty well stripped. I called mike told him the situation and then asked for another one to replace it. He wouldn't exchange it. He said "this is a race car". He then told me to weld it in. If I were buying LCA's again I would consider Turn ten's billet ones. If I didn't get those I would get FFR's. With the FFR's the shock mount is raised for better spring hat clearance.
 

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Hard to adjust the front VPM bar with stock arms.
Read that to mean you have to weld in a tab on the lower arm, drill different holes or figure out something different.

The front bar is nice for street and adds a lot for any kind of performance activity (mine is AutoX)

I am saving my pennies for a pair of FFRs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This forum is great! I guess the old fitment problems have pretty much gone away, so I'll probably go with the FFR LCAs. The Turn Ten's are tempting and don't cost all that much more than the FFRs, but they might look kinda funny with the FFR uppers, and I'm not willing to spend the
for the whole set.

The FFR's are powder coated black, aren't they? I'm going to have the frame done locally in silver. I wonder if you can powder coat over old powder coat? Maybe silver paint would be easier (and cheaper).

Thanks to all,

Rich
 

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The new Ford stock replacements may be "ugly" , but they are really put together, much better than the old style, and will last 140,000 miles...
A real bargain at less than $200 or so for the pair!
 

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Originally posted by Mr. Barry:
The new Ford stock replacements may be "ugly" , but they are really put together, much better than the old style, and will last 140,000 miles...
A real bargain at less than $200 or so for the pair!
Agreed; i got my FRPP SN95 control arms for $150...can't beat that :D


Btw, I know people say the stockish design is ugly, while the tubular design is hot, but c'mon, it's not like you're ever going to see them when driving! :D
 

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T Rex yes, the ffr arms come black powder coated. May be able to get them speacal without the powder coating.
Actually would probally get them faster this way since the cause of back ordered lca's is most times due to them being at the powder coaters.
 

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I went from tubular arms back to new stockers. The rubber bushings took a huge amount of harshness out of the ride. I drilled a hole to mount up my VPM sway bar, no problem. It really improved the ride quality. I'm thinking of going back to stock lower rear control arms for the same reason. In theory I thought I would like a race car suspension on the street. but the reality of it said " No you don't." I was really surprised at the difference between the poly bushings and rubber bushings. The difference in steering precision was minimal for a street car
 

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The logic I used was unless you're going with pin drive wheels there's no need for the tubular LCAs. The Ford parts work great (the car was designed to use them)and are a bargain at about $150 new from Five Star Ford. I ultimately decided on bolt on PSE GT40 wheels. The ride and handling is superb.
Frank
 

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I have the Forte's LCA's they fit great on my old MK1. You don't need to drill the bushings as they already come with a grease fitting. No quality issues noted on my pieces. And a substantial savings over the FFR ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wait a minute... what's going on here? I ask a question, and you guys are giving me answers that actually COST LESS??? Isn't that against "the code"? :D

But seriously, you've got me thinking now about the stock arms. Five Star Ford is pretty close to where I work. My only concern is... will the new Konis that I got for free in the summer sale bolt up to the stock arms without any clearance problems?

Thanks,

Rich
 

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Hi,
I sell new tubular LCA's for the FFR and 79-93 Mustangs for $325.00 pair. I now have grease slots in all new production LCA bushing to aid in lubrication.
As for loose ball joints, this hasn't been a problem except for Paul above. I would recommend welding the balljoint it 3 places and that will fix anyone with that problem no matter who's steel A-arm it is including OEM.
I would and will fix anyones LCA free of charge with same day turn around.
For competition cars, welding is highly recommended and is also free of charge. Please specify welding if that is what you'ld like.
Mike Forte
 

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FFR front lowers have fluted sleves now so grease can get to the bushings. Stock mustang ball joints are pressed in too. FFR lower look great and fit the frame well.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Too many choices! Well, right now I've got the FFR LCAs on order (with my initial order), and I've still got a few weeks before I have to "finalize" it. I'll be giving this issue (and many others!) a lot of thought in the near future.

Thanks, everyone, for your help!

Rich
 

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Rich, I asked questions and planned my build for a year before I got my kit. Thought I had it all down. All that planning was changed overnight when I went IRS & pin width to get a vintage deep dish look.

As you just said, TOOOOO many choices!! Best of luck "finalizing" it....
 
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