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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Without having anything installed really, what all can I install without running into problems getting at certain areas in the future?
Thanks.
Carl
 

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Go ahead and start drilling your footboxes, firewall, and you can also work on drilling the trunk area. I would not install the footbox floors until you run your fuel and brake lines. They are soooo much easier to do without the floors being on (how do I know that?). Don't install trunk alum until everything is done in the back (elec, fuel lines, brake lines, suspension, ect).

Don't worry, there is plenty to keep you busy for a while...
 

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I've been able to get to everything but it's a PITA sometimes. Things like replacing the clutch quadrant that breaks, changing the battery, etc. If I was doing over I add a nice battery box, maybe use screws instead of rivits on the tranny hump, and a nice little door over the drivers foot box to access petals & wires. You can still do repairs in these areas as is, but it could be better with more access.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, sounds good. I might just drill and align some of them.
I've got the trunk sides all done, the f panels done, drivers side floor (not the dropped footbox though), pass floor done, and will finish the passenger footbox off tonight if I can.

Thanks guys.
Shoulda gotten some cleco's!
 

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The drilling of the panels is the boring part of the build. Get them all drilled while you don't have anything really in the way...then when you are making good progress, you won't have to slow down to drill more freakin holes.
 

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Measure, drill, cleco before applying silicone and riveting panels into place. Using clecos are great to preview what the final placement of the panels will look like. This is where those clecos really pay off. Secondly, just a sequencing thought to keep in mind, install brake lines and fuel lines before rivetting driver and passenger's side floor. Do you really want to be working under the panels, if you can avoid it? Just my $0.02.

Allan


[ April 20, 2004, 10:00 PM: Message edited by: misu ]
 

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Allan wrote:
Measure, drill, cleco before applying silicone and riveting panels into place.
This is the best advice you can get. I would add "fit", as some panels require a little tweaking to get them to fit properly.

2FAST
 

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\\\M3
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The next time I build one of these cars, the first thing I'm going to do is grind down any welds that I want fixed up, but the second thing is going to be to drill, fit, and cleco every aluminum panel on the entire car.

And if you don't have clecos, go online and buy some, right now... 50 should be fine.

Brendan
 

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I you really like drilling do the rollbar, what a pain for four bolts. I wonder if the Smith boys know that softer metal is easier to drill

Just kidding,
Rob Baker
 

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I would do the front two bottom bolts on the roll bar before you do any on the trunk aluminum and consider that you may have to remove these bolts sometime in the future so align them to make removing them as easy as possible. Trying to drill them after placing the aluminum panels is a PITA and makes a angle drill almost a necessity.
Bill Rodman
 

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If I did another car, I would have drilled all the aluminium as installed from the factory. It really fit well then and I should ave left it that way to drill, then dissassembled it.

Then when you are assembling and really cranking on the car, there will be no drill chips everywhere and no monotony of drilling to deal with.
 

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I was thinking about what Aaron said, after reading through that section of the the assembly manual last night...any potential gottcha's? Makes good sense to me. You wouldnt have to mark around the frame onto the panels, and you could drill into the frame at the same time. Just mark any edges that overlap (top, bottom ect..) and be done with it.
 
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