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Try one of these next time

358669


Step Drill
 

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Last things left to take out for the mechanical work.
358670


Windage Tray/Pan gasket combo & oil pickup

358671


All the rest is out. Waiting on new flywheel & flywheel bolts & 5QT jug of Mobile EP full syn 5W-20 that is delayed to reassemble the system. Should be here Thursday & Friday for the flywheel & bolts. No ETA on the oil. Not a stopper COYOTE/MOROSO oil pan takes 8 qts so I can always get some single quarts if it does not show up when the dash is done.

No work today. Rifle range is now open & want to try out some new parts I added to 3 of the rifles. Also will be 80*F here today, time to put some quality top down mileage on the Z4
 

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Curious George
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Try one of these next time

View attachment 358669

Step Drill
yeah, I thought of that too - I was near melting the tips on the drillbits I was using, I didn't think the metal would be that hard to be honest...
cutting the wilwood metal is going to be a noisy/slow process with the hole saw...
 

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Not a waxer
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... I didn't think the metal would be that hard to be honest...
It's not. Forget about the fancy Cobalt and Titanium stuff and just use some QUALITY black oxide from Irwin, Milwaukee, Vermont American and the like.

Jeff
 

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Can see why this small block bottom end can support such high revs stock.

All 5 main bearings are 4 bolt & a full deep block skirt.




My old 1970 LT 1 only had 4 bolts on the middle three bearings & a shallow block skirt hence the splayed outer bolts on the 3 center caps.
 

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In regards to drilling / holesaws - A little cutting (machining) fluid helps reduce the hard yakka. Makes a small mess, that is easily cleaned up, but reduces heat immensely and improves cutting rate.

Worth a go.

Cheers,

Nigel in South Oz
 

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Dang, Todd, that looked fun! :)

New power steering rack in place, alignment done.

20200515_093636.jpg
 

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358833


Starting dash & console. Waiting parts to finish clutch install, everything that needs to come out is out so its a clean stop point.

Need to photograph & mark the wires (PIA). The gauge wires will get replaced with the new gauges. The new sensors are all two wire replacing the one wire on the current ones.

Am going to move a few things, horn button blinker switch, based on experience & will clean up the rats nest with better routing of the wires. The new gauge harness is much neater than the original.

Did a quick 0-60 run with the Z4 today @ 650 miles without heating the tires first. Lost traction about 10 feet out as the boost came up but the car recovered quickly, Dragy said 4.1 seconds. A good run with hot tires will put it around 3.8 or about a full second slower than the new StingRay.
 

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Completed planned sidepipe rework including new paint, sturdier support brackets with rubber hangers, Breeze wedged flanges for better alignment. Body is in paint. (6 more weeks with Jeff Miller and lots of anticipation, woo hoo!)
051720.jpg
 

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358838


Stripped showing 5 years of dust. Lot of the RF harness is now redundant & will be pruned. Need to put steering shaft & put in fresh Belleville washers to tighten it up. Got slightly oversized ones from McMaster.

Panel that the wires are laying on is the Everson under dash piece. Recommend it to stiffen the dash structure.

358839


You can see the system I use to mount the dash by the heavy crease along the top. It eliminates a lot of the trying to guess the correct position in relation to the space frame dash hoop. I have it a press fit between the body & frame at the top. Bottom is supported by 4 screws into the under-dash panel & upward pressure from the console.

Will use this one to layout the holes I need to drill. Am ordering fresh all metal toggle switches.
 

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When I park my car on an upward slope, I found the doors kept swinging shut on my leg. This made entering and exiting the car look awkward, basically because it was. So I purchased some small 100n gas struts and fitted them to the hinge. Perfect! Now the door stays open when needed and as a bonus it now has a more solid feel, rather than flopping around.
358849

Not sure if someone has covered this before, but this is how I did mine:

At the hinge end of the strut: The male thread on the ball was 8mm. Drilling a 8mm hole in the hinge would have weakened it too much. (In my mind the hinges are already too thin). So instead I cut off the male thread off, then drilled the ball and tapped a female 5mm thread.
358850


The manufacturer of the gas struts offers a selection of mounting accessories. I used a right angle plate, with preftitted ball for the strut end fitted to the chassis.
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Installation was simple. Probably the easiest job I have done on the car, took around 20 minutes per side. I did need a right angle drill to make the 5mm hole in the hinge. (Didn't feel like taking off the door) 100n was exactly the right amount of force from the strut. Once the door is opened more than ~1/8 of the way, the strut assists slightly, but smoothly. Now when the door is opened, it is opened all the way, but that is no biggie, as the doors are small anyway.
358853


Close up pics sure show up imperfection and dirt!

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz.
 

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When I park my car on an upward slope, I found the doors kept swinging shut on my leg. This made entering and exiting the car look awkward, basically because it was. So I purchased some small 100n gas struts and fitted them to the hinge. Perfect! Now the door stays open when needed and as a bonus it now has a more solid feel, rather than flopping around.
Nigel, that's a bitchin' mod! My heater vent is in the way on the driver side, but I'll see what I can do to pull this off.

Because of the geometry, the strut isn't pushing the door open when fully closed, correct?

- m
 
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