What should I cover my kit with when I pick it up? I will be picking up the kit in march, and I don't want to get salt on the frame, body and aluminum. I was wondering if I could use a plastic tarp, or would this mess up the body? Will a car cover be a better choice. All the boxes will be inside my tow vehicle. I will be driving back to Minnesota and I don't want to take any chances with a snow storm. What advice do you have?
What to cover kit with while shipping?
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Go with one of those blue tarps. Get one big enough to lay the chassis on then flip the rest up the front and over to the rear. To start off, spread it out over your trailer with about five feet hanging off the back. The factory will then pick up the body/chassis combo and lay it on the trailer. Tie down the chassis and when doong so you will have to cut the tarp for where the straps go to the trailer. Next flip the tarp up and over the car towards the rear. Now start tying it up with lots of stout twine. Use duct tape too to make sure it does not flap in transit. Also tape up the slits you made for the tie down straps.
This is definitetly a worthwile thing to do. It will take you an extra 45 minutes to get ready to travel but will save you that in cleanup at the other end.
I regret not having planned for this myself and paid the price. BTW, best price for the tarp would be the Northern Catalogue.
This is definitetly a worthwile thing to do. It will take you an extra 45 minutes to get ready to travel but will save you that in cleanup at the other end.
I regret not having planned for this myself and paid the price. BTW, best price for the tarp would be the Northern Catalogue.
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958 Posts
Nick,
I, too, wish I would have sealed my car. I thought that I might have too much loose flapping so went bare, right after a big Chicago snowstorm. Salt everywhere. I washed it when I got home but much of the aluminum developed white oxide and bare steel rusted quickly. Overall, I don't regret picking it up one bit as it was an adventure for my brother and I. But if I had it to do over I would wrap the body in 1 or 2 mil plastic and use vast quantities of duct tape to snug it to the body everywhere. About every 6 inches to a foot like a belt. Duct tape is cheap.
I also bought some one shot $10k cargo insurance from State Farm in case of an accident since truck insurance just covers liability with a trailer. I think it cost about $60 and I had a claim for my trunk handle which vibrated loose and fell out somewhere.
My trailer had a wooden bed and I scrounged some wood blocks and nails from FFR to nail some blocks down to keep the frame from sliding around. The tie down system needs to be fairly durable to withstand this long journey. I used 4 dirtbike tiedown straps and nailed a short length of chain over the front crossmember as a safety. The hood isn't fastened well and needed to be carried inside the truck behind the seat. Some rags to use as padding are handy. My frame rubbed the paint off on the bottom but the factory paint isn't all that great anyway and needed blasting and replacement. The aluminum is fastened by one screw each and also vibrates, knocking off more frame paint. It is conceivable that a panel could fall off, another reason for a full wrap. The assembly rests only on the 4" tubes from the front wheel-well center to just in front of the rear wheel-well, not very long. Mine was so light, my son and I lifted the entire assembly and stepped off the trailer at home but it has a carbon body. FFR is right when they say almost any trailer will work. Good luck.
I, too, wish I would have sealed my car. I thought that I might have too much loose flapping so went bare, right after a big Chicago snowstorm. Salt everywhere. I washed it when I got home but much of the aluminum developed white oxide and bare steel rusted quickly. Overall, I don't regret picking it up one bit as it was an adventure for my brother and I. But if I had it to do over I would wrap the body in 1 or 2 mil plastic and use vast quantities of duct tape to snug it to the body everywhere. About every 6 inches to a foot like a belt. Duct tape is cheap.
I also bought some one shot $10k cargo insurance from State Farm in case of an accident since truck insurance just covers liability with a trailer. I think it cost about $60 and I had a claim for my trunk handle which vibrated loose and fell out somewhere.
My trailer had a wooden bed and I scrounged some wood blocks and nails from FFR to nail some blocks down to keep the frame from sliding around. The tie down system needs to be fairly durable to withstand this long journey. I used 4 dirtbike tiedown straps and nailed a short length of chain over the front crossmember as a safety. The hood isn't fastened well and needed to be carried inside the truck behind the seat. Some rags to use as padding are handy. My frame rubbed the paint off on the bottom but the factory paint isn't all that great anyway and needed blasting and replacement. The aluminum is fastened by one screw each and also vibrates, knocking off more frame paint. It is conceivable that a panel could fall off, another reason for a full wrap. The assembly rests only on the 4" tubes from the front wheel-well center to just in front of the rear wheel-well, not very long. Mine was so light, my son and I lifted the entire assembly and stepped off the trailer at home but it has a carbon body. FFR is right when they say almost any trailer will work. Good luck.
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11,847 Posts
Stewart transport. It is inside the whole way. Three things to think about: 1, can I get the kit insured while I ship it myself? 2, What is my time really worth to drive over 2000 miles. 3, Is it worth getting it in excellent condition or all mess up for a couple of hundred bucks. Cheers Richard.
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1,051 Posts
I hauled my car my car home in the snow. All of my aluminum corroded. I had to have all of the aluminum that showed in the engine room powdercoated and I carpeted the trunk. I doubt that you can wrap the body tight enough to keep the salt water out. good luck.
jack
jack
Thanks for the info guys.
I have checked with Collin and it would be about $1000. I realize this would be the best choice, but I'm on somewhat of a budget.
I figured that the trip would cost about $500, mostly gas. About $250 for gas. The rest is cheap.
This trip would also be my spring break trip.
I'll weigh my options a little more when it's getting close to picking up my kit.
Thanks all, Nick
I have checked with Collin and it would be about $1000. I realize this would be the best choice, but I'm on somewhat of a budget.
I figured that the trip would cost about $500, mostly gas. About $250 for gas. The rest is cheap.
This trip would also be my spring break trip.
I'll weigh my options a little more when it's getting close to picking up my kit.
Thanks all, Nick
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3,268 Posts
If you think that it is going to be a problem than take your camera with you and take some pictures of the aluminum in place. Take the body off and then remove all the alum. and put it inside the truck. Put the body back on. Shouldn't take that long to complete the job.
Todd
Todd
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