Factory Five Racing Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Cobra Builder/Driver
Joined
·
253 Posts
Best Choices:
Engine: Mobil 1(or any true 100% synthetic)10w-30

8.8" Diff.: Valvoline Synthetic 80w-90 gear lube
and a bottle of Friction Modifier (4 oz.) available at FORD Dealer (or equivalent from Pep Boys/Autozone/NAPA/Etc.)

Non-synthetics in the above weights are also acceptable.
 

· Fast Snake Charmer
Joined
·
585 Posts
I have run Mobil 1 (oil, atf, gear lube) almost exclusively (180,000 miles on cobra engine). There was a point when my oil pressure got really low and I tried Valvoline strait 50 racing oil. One event the motor got hot and cooked the oil. Some people swear by it, just not me. I'll stay with Mobil 1.
Dave
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
871 Posts
If this is a new engine, do not use synthetic oil for at least 3,000 miles. It is just too slick to properly seat the rings.
 

· FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
1,975 Posts
We use Mobil 1 10-30, but you will find that everyone has their own favorite. Use a K&N, Motorcraft, Purolator, Wix filter. Do not use Fram, they are crap.

Frank.
 

· Senior Member
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
I know this was coverd before but don't remember the answer. How come corvetts and volvo's come with synthetic already in them if it's not good until after breakin?
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
1,043 Posts
Originally posted by pan61:
I know this was coverd before but don't remember the answer. How come corvetts and volvo's come with synthetic already in them if it's not good until after breakin?
This is actually debated by many. The break-in period to seat the rings, etc., takes longer. For instance BMW M5's also come with full synthetic and don't really seat the rings 'till after 10,000 miles. Many owners complain about using too much oil until then.

[ November 19, 2002, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: Bart Carter ]
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
871 Posts
Another explanation is that some new cars come with synthetic blends instead of 100% synthetic oil like Mobil One. You can tell when the owner's manual says you should use only "approved" synthetic oils as provided by the factory service centers.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
690 Posts
Something to stay away from is a dino oil (non-synthetic) that has more than 30 or more points of swing in the viscosity weight. For instance, a 10W-40 or 20W-50. For years GM wouldn’t warrantee cars that use 10W-40. The additive package to get that much viscosity swing has a short lifespan.

Synthetic oils with that much swing are OK, because the molecules are “designed” for that purpose. There are no additives to breakdown.

I have been a Mobil 1 user for 16 years.
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
652 Posts
Well, while going through the documentation for my 392W crate motor, Ford says they run the motor for 20 minutes, and that they used and recommend a "good grade" of 20W-50 oil. Thats what I used to run in my Formula Vee racer! I was a bit surprised, but I'll do what they say, 'cause they're the ones who "should" know. ...thanks... :cool:
 

· FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
767 Posts
On the 30 point swing:

I believe the problem is with 10w-40, not 20w-50. The latter doesn't have as much additives as it starts with a more viscious base I believe.

-steve in nj-
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top