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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just double checking.
I've got my go-kart running and wrapping up my to-dos list.
I'm trying to think if there is anything else I want to do BEFORE I mount the body for the first time. (I plan to take it off again later, to install the bulb seals, splash guards, etc, but just trying to avoid any gotcha's)
I'm finishing up the dash wiring and a couple other Items that I actually could do after install. (I'll finish the heater and wipers later, after I take the body off again)

I've finished the entire "Chassis Assembly" section of the MK4 manual (I did jump around a bit in the process) and went back page by page to make sure I didn't skip anything important.

I did not install the Roll Bars yet (aftermarket Breeze SS 1 3/4" DS & PS). I want to get the rear legs welded first.
I also haven't riveted my footboxes and cockpit aluminum yet. And didn't mount the Nameplate(?? LOL)

I'm relatively sure that if I did forget something, I could do it when I take the body off again, but if I can do it now, I'd rather.
 

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You mite want to install the side pipe supports before you rivet the floor down. I had the car on the road with carpeting and everything before I got around to to installing those brackets and it would be a lot easier to drill the 2/2 frame member without the floor. At least that is the case with the MK III.

Jack
 

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Have you cut out the access hole in the top of the drivers foot box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yup, mine looks like this. About as big as i could make it.




Also have this ready :001_tongue:



I just feel like I'm overlooking something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Bob.
I planned on removing the side-pipes, my body doesn't have the cut-outs, I wanted to measure and cut them after it's installed.
Fill tube? the one coming out of the tank, or the hose that connects to the Lemans cap?
 

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Snake Farmer
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I installed my head, t/sig, and tail lights before putting the body on the first time. Easy install with the body off. This allowed me to figure out how long I needed to make the wires leading to them.
You could put the bulb seal on beforehand, but tape some plastic sheeting over them, so the underside body fiberglass doesn't rough them up. This will help in figuring out how the body will sit on the frame, as to body fastening points, roll bar hole adjustment, and windshield post hole adjustments, that you will need to do. Without the bulb seal, you can't accurately predict these positions.
If you planned on test mounting and rough fitting of the doors, you probably should install the splash shields as well once the body is on. Likewise for your side pipe fitting. The body openings for the pipes need to be adjusted, but you need the front splash shields in place for that.

Realistically you could finish riveting all the cockpit aluminum ahead of time, but leave the drivers foot box outer side panel removable. You may need to still get in there for some pedal bending, brake pedal adjustment, etc. I left that area accessible, and it paid off..:)
 

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I don't know what the Mark IV manual has for dash, but after trying it both ways with my Mark II, I can tell you it's about 2 million times easier to get the dash installed where you want it before dropping the body on. The Mark II manual has you put the dash on after the body, but with the dash covering on, I found it quite the wrestling match. If you already have it installed, excellent! Breeze has some great instructions if you need them.

x2 on bulb seal.
x2 on side pipe hangers before aluminum gets riveted. Take the aluminum out, drill for hangers, then install aluminum.

I wish I would have buttoned up more wiring looming, etc, before dropping the body on for the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys, you gave me a lot of good stuff to think about. I think I have them all covered at this point or remaining on my to-do list.

I have most of my wiring run; headlights, signals, and tail-lights. Just need to finish up my turn-signal switch behind the dash.
I want to install the body without the bulb-seal first time, so I can check clearance and mark it for any trimming.

Dash is done and installed (per Breeze instructions).

x2 on mounting the splash shields before cutting the header openings.

I will take the suggestion to mount the sidepipe hangers, never heard of that before, but makes sense.
 

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hold off installing the bulb seals till you are ready to put the body on they can easily tear away like the ones at the back, you either knock your shin on the overriders or knock the bulb seal when you are reaching for your beer:001_tt1:
the cutout on top of the footbox can be cut too big so make sure fastners are not under the body after its mounted.

dry fit the elephant ears but leave them off a couple screws to hold them, more than likely the holes won't line up but will get you close.

i took a full video of everything prior to body install.....oh did i mention that its lost in my fried HDD along with all my build pics:001_rolleyes:

the rear cockpit panel may have to be trimmed if it holds the body up this shouldn't touch the body, so body on body off...i don't think it ever goes on once and stays on.

the one thing to remember is if you are installing anything on the go-cart that you need to think will this be able to be removed if i need to with the body on.
 

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Could you please give me the measurement you have from the top of your cutout to the 1st bend at the top ?
In my haste i forgot to mark where the body line was before i took it off.

Greatly appreciated.

Joe
 

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Snake Farmer
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Could you please give me the measurement you have from the top of your cutout to the 1st bend at the top ?
In my haste i forgot to mark where the body line was before i took it off.
Greatly appreciated. Joe
Joe, where he has the two screws holding the upper foot box cover on, is almost exactly where the body rests. If you dropped the cut for the footbox access down 1-1/2 to 2" from that you should be good to go.

MPtech, I was able to mount my hangers for the side-pipes after the floor was on, but you need an angle drill to do it easily. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Joe, where he has the two screws holding the upper foot box cover on, is almost exactly where the body rests. If you dropped the cut for the footbox access down 1-1/2 to 2" from that you should be good to go.
Actually the top 2 are rivets, holding another piece of aluminum that slips under the top portion of the footbox. I was concerned about access with the body on and it also reduces the total number of screws to remove it.
The only screws are the 3 on the bottom and one in the front.
 

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Snake Farmer
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Sorry must have mis-read Joe's question.:blush:

I thought he was trying to figure out where exactly to make the cut out in the foot box cover, so I was using the two self tapping screws you have at the 3/4" framing as a comparison..
 

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Sorry must have mis-read Joe's question.:blush:

I thought he was trying to figure out where exactly to make the cut out in the foot box cover, so I was using the two self tapping screws you have at the 3/4" framing as a comparison..
Yes thats what i was looking at. Im going with 2 inches or so down .

Joe
 

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WAIT I JUST MADE THE CONNECTION MR OBVIOUS

THE THREAD SAYS WHAT ELSE BEFORE I MOUNT MY BODY FOR THE FIRST TIME

I WOULDNT WORRY MARK THERE WILL BE MORE TIMES:evil:
 
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