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Discussion Starter #21
Crimping tool works like a charm. Guide attachment holds the contact pin while you crimp. Crimps around the wire and rubber seal in one squeeze. Ratcheting action ensures you crimp just enough without over or under crimping. Only misfired twice by putting too much pressure on the wire leading to crimp around the wire insulation instead of the stripped wire. Thank goodness Mike included a few extra pins and seals. Should I have cut the wires for the turn and brake lights shorter? There seemed to be quite a bit of length on them.
 

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Thank goodness Mike included a few extra pins and seals.
I bought a pack of replacement pins figuring they’d be good to have around. I’ve used a few already as I’ve been upgrading and changing things. It’s like a warm blanket, I can crimp like a madman. Something like below.

 

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Crimping tool works like a charm. Guide attachment holds the contact pin while you crimp. Crimps around the wire and rubber seal in one squeeze. Ratcheting action ensures you crimp just enough without over or under crimping. Only misfired twice by putting too much pressure on the wire leading to crimp around the wire insulation instead of the stripped wire. Thank goodness Mike included a few extra pins and seals. Should I have cut the wires for the turn and brake lights shorter? There seemed to be quite a bit of length on them.
Bought mine last night
 

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Fyi Jeff, Mike sends 4 pin connectors meant to be used for the headlights. He says this prevents confusing the headlight and turn signal wires.
That's one way. My method is to use opposites on the chassis wiring and lamp pigtail...for example the chassis end of the headlight gets male and the lamp end gets female then for the turn signal chassis side gets female with male for the lamp. you wind up with a male and female at each corner of the chassis wiring making it impossible to get turn and headlight (or at the rear the upper brake light and lower turn signal) swapped.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #25
That's one way. My method is to use opposites on the chassis wiring and lamp pigtail...for example the chassis end of the headlight gets male and the lamp end gets female then for the turn signal chassis side gets female with male for the lamp. you wind up with a male and female at each corner of the chassis wiring making it impossible to get turn and headlight (or at the rear the upper brake light and lower turn signal) swapped.

Jeff
nice tricks.
I guess the lights in the rear are all the same, so it doesn't matter if you plug in the wrong harness, right?
just to be clear, the wires for the rear lights and front turn lights have 3 wires. Do I have my wiring colors correct?
red w/ yellow stripe = hot
black = neg
green= ground
 

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No. From the chassis wiring harness manual.


Roadster Taillights
Black – Ground
Red – running lights
Green – stop/turn signal



 The tail lights can be set up so that one light does the brake, the other does the turn signal and
they both do the running lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
No. From the chassis wiring harness manual.


Roadster Taillights
Black – Ground
Red – running lights
Green – stop/turn signal



 The tail lights can be set up so that one light does the brake, the other does the turn signal and
they both do the running lights.
Are you referring to the wires from the harness or the wires from the lights? I was referring to the wires from the lights
 

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I guess the lights in the rear are all the same, so it doesn't matter if you plug in the wrong harness, right?
just to be clear, the wires for the rear lights and front turn lights have 3 wires. Do I have my wiring colors correct?
red w/ yellow stripe = hot
black = neg
green= ground
I'm afraid you are confused Eugene. The 4 lights at the rear use the same lamp assembly but serve different purposes so yes, it does matter that you plug in the correct harness (otherwise you might end up with the brake light on the top on one side and on the bottom on the other side and the same with turn signals!). The 2 wires on the lamp are:

red/yellow=low intensity element
green=high intensity element
black=ground

The Ron Francis harness is configured so that all 4 lamps are illuminated for tail lights with one on each side used for brake lights and the other on each side used for turn signals. I prefer to orient them so that the uppers are brake lights for better visibility.

Make the following connections at the rear:

---Tan harness wire at each corner is for tail lights and will go to the low element on all four light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

---Purple harness wire at each corner is for brake lights and will go to the bright element on the upper light assembly per side via the green lamp wire.

---Yellow harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---White harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Black wire on all joins with the black harness ground.

And at the front:

---Tan harness wire at each corner is for the parking/running lights and will go to the low element on both light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

---Dark green harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Light blue harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Black wire on both joins with the black harness ground.

You will get the front parking/running lights and and all 4 tail lights in both the parking light position as well as the headlight position.

Hope that helps!

Jeff
 

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I have always wondered about how wires are referenced in a RF harness. I have always used a painless harness, and in a painless, each wire is color coded and the wire number and function is printed on each wire. I have never seen anyone talk about a RF with a wire number, code or purpose. Only colors are used to identify.

Does RF not print the wire number, code, or purpose on each wirei as Painless does ???
 

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Does RF not print the wire number, code, or purpose on each wirei as Painless does ???
Yes, the RF harness is color coded to match the schematic and each wire is labeled (“left turn”, “tail light feed”, etc.). It’s pretty much as close to plug & play as you can find.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #31
once RF wiring harness is laid out, and assuming that I didn't cut any length off the wires on the lights before installing weather pack connectors, how much of the wiring harness do you cut to remove the excess slack, when measured from the edge of the frame?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
OK. just now looking at the rear light wiring. Each light has 3 wires, red, green and black. I now understand that red is running lights, green is brake/turn, and black is ground. Wiring harness has 4 wires, running light, brake, turn, and ground. I'm assuming that I split the ground and running light wires into 2 wires, so I can run 3 wires to each light? top light will get a ground, running lights and brake wire and bottom light gets ground, running light and turn wire? Just trying to figure out how I get these separated to the weatherpack connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
oh, and can anyone comment on how much of the harness wire I can trim off? maybe relative to the edge of the frame? There appears to be a ton of excess wire length and there's pretty good length on the wire coming from the rear lights.
 

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I have mine wired so the top light is the turn, brake on the bottom. So the top is, ground wire, running light wire and the correct side turn wire. The bottom is ground wire, running light wire and brake light wire. I fastened the harness wire to the outside of the trunk frame on each side, then left at least a foot of wire with the connectors. Having enough wire at each corner makes hooking the connectors for the lights easier, it's easy to coil up and use a zip tie to keep in place once the body is on. Much easier to tuck up some 'extra' length than to be so short you can't reach up under the body to make your connections.
 

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Get the tool. Doing the crimps correctly without it is nearly impossible. I bought a small supply of 1, 2 3, 4 & 6 pin connectors. I used them for a lot of different things. Lights, license plate light, fan wire, etc. Any thing I may want to disconnect in the future. Don forget the grommets that are part of the connector to make them watertight. The tool crimps the wire and grommet all at once. It is a great system.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Get the tool. Doing the crimps correctly without it is nearly impossible. I bought a small supply of 1, 2 3, 4 & 6 pin connectors. I used them for a lot of different things. Lights, license plate light, fan wire, etc. Any thing I may want to disconnect in the future. Don forget the grommets that are part of the connector to make them watertight. The tool crimps the wire and grommet all at once. It is a great system.
Thanks, already bought the weatherpack connectors and the crimping tool.
 
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