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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We now have a MarkIII front sway-bar that is bolt-on without cutting the front tow hooks. Everything else is the same as our original front sway-bar.

The holes for the tow hooks are still there, but your current tie down setup may or may not work.

Here are some pictures...



Craig

[ September 11, 2007, 08:03 PM: Message edited by: Craig Mapstone ]
 

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How much is it?

Is it safe to run the rad hose below the control arm along the frame like it is in the first picture or two?

Does the new sway bar interefere with the lower rad hose? (I notice it's not in your later pictures)
 

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If you want to see the pics better, hold down the "Ctrl" button while moving the mouse wheel to zoom in or out. Big pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry about the large pictures, but they are linked from a customer's website. I did not know they were so big. I edited the post so only one picture shows up. The others were redundant anyways.

The price is the same at $399 plus shipping.

You will need to drill two 3/8" holes in each tow hook.

The radiator hose can be routed in any of the normal methods. It has never been an issue with our front bar and this new mount should not change anything.

Thanks,

Craig
 

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I'm in for one...

how do i order?

thanks!
 

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I have to say that this was a piece of cake to install. I bought this bar as well and it took no time at all to install and what a difference!!!! I did the rear as also. I'll be posting picks in a day or so. This is a great item!!

P.J.
 

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Guys,

This is one of the coolest things. I have the first one and it's really easy to install.

There's no cutting or grinding at all. You lose no ground clearance over the old design and it comes with every piece of hardware that you will need.

Here are some more pictures:









I can't say enough great things about VPM and the Mapstone brothers.

R :D
 

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Man that's a nice set-up!! Going to have to put that on the "to buy" list. My poor wallet... :D
 

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I called Craig many times during my build for advice. He was always available for me. Because of that customer service, I now own both front and rear VPM bars as well as his IRS bushings.

A friend owned a 2005 Saab. When his family was returning from a skiing trip last winter, the car burst into flames. All that he had left was a $2 sway bar.
 

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Good one Paul...
LMAO!
 

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Great job Craig - just wish it was here a year ago would have save some work . Great to have for the next build.

Next a rear bar that works with a Levy 5 link ?

Just kidding not too many of those around and the bar you made for us works fine , not much saved from the original bar.

Charlie
 

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I'd like to know if I should do the front or the rear first on a FFR pin-drive length fronts and 3-link rear-end? I also have the FFR Koni shocks. I doubt if I can afford both at the same time.

I may be at the tracks in October and it would be fun to test it out and adjust while there.

-Kouros

[ September 14, 2007, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: Kouros ]
 

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Hey Kouros,
I've got a similar setup: pin-drive, FFR Koni's, but IRS. I did the front bar first. Drove for a little bit and then did the rear. I did this after talking to Craig about initial setting and he recommended the highest setting up front and weakest in the back to start (I figured since he suggested the weakest in the back to start, can't get any weaker than no bar). The rear was tricky (I went with the old style that feeds thru in front of the pumpkin as I didn't want to swap hubs). I'll post some pics later this week once I get caught back up from my last trip. I did start feeding thru from the drivers side. Had to round off the passenger side end of the bar to force it easily thru the triangle on the passenger side. I did end up taking off the lower control arms to do the welding of the tab. All in all, the car handles sooooo much better now and the bars (even with welding the tabs on in the rear) was a very simple process.

Only problem I face right now is looking for another floorjack for the front. The front bar isn't lower than the 4" frame but very close to the same height from the ground and while the saddle of the jack will make it under the bar, the rear of the jack will not clear in order to jack the whole front end up from the 4" cross member on the frame.

P.J.
 

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Craig, this looks like an excellent upgrade to an outstanding product.

[ September 13, 2007, 08:58 AM: Message edited by: Bill ]
 

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I wish that was available before I hacked off the tow rings to mount the bar on mine!
 

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I put on on my MkII between racing dates this year. An immediate difference. It now works the tires hard, good thing I have the Kuhmo's! Planted in high-speed sweepers at the Glen.

Very worthwhile if you drive you Cobra agressively.
 
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