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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was reading the rocker adjustment post and wanted to follow-up with a related valve adjustment question.

I recently adjusted my valves using the method of adjusting the intake just as the exhaust starts to open. And adjusting the exhaust just as the intake closes. I know that you want to adjust the valves when the lifter is riding on the base circle of the cam, but wouldn't the following method work:

I'd think that you could get number one cylinder on TDC of its compression stroke and adjust both the intake and exhaust valves. Then you could rotate the engine 90 degrees and adjust the intake and exhaust valves on the next cylinder in the firing order. You'd continue the process 90 degrees at time and after two complete revolutions of the engine you'd have all sixteen valves adjusted.

I'd much prefer the above method, if it will work, because I don't like to have to watch and see if the valve is in the correct opening or closing position, while rotating the engine, in order to adjust the adjacent valve.

As a matter of fact, I e-mailed Comp Cams this morning with the same question and am waiting for their reply. I tried their help line but I gave up after being on hold for what seemed like an eternity.

So, what do you guys think of the TDC method of valve adjustment, 90 degrees at a time?
 

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Either method will work but I prefer to do it 90 degrees at a time and I always double check the lash by going over the whole mess all over again.
 

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Randy,

I am running a Twisted wedge 347 stroker from Ford Performance Solutions. I have Twisted wedge heads and stage 2 cam. I am also running an 8lb Paxton supercharger.
My question relates to Jim's. When adjusting the valves how much of a turn should you rotate after contact is felt while turning the pushrod?
I am running Comp cams pro magnum roller rockers.
I went 1/4 turn but the valve train seems a little noisy. Should I have went 1/2 turn?

thanks in advance from your Canadian neighbor.

Gord FFR 2359
 

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I typically put at least 1/2 turn of preload on hydraulic lifters that are adjustable (pedastal style is not adjustable without special shims). I have gone up to 1 full turn of preload. It takes a pretty fine touch to determine when the slack is out of the valve-train. I will usually move the push-rod up and down while slowly taking the slack out with the adjuster - then add the preload.
Roller rockers will add slightly more noise to the mix.
Did you check your pushrod length to make sure you have the correct geometry with those heads?

One more thought - if you are running pushrod guideplates - make sure your roller rockers are not the self-aligning style. If they are, you need to remove the guideplates as the two designs are rarely compatible with each other..
 

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Jim,

I use the 90 degree method and it works great. I find TDC #1 then mark the crank pully and use the kids protractor to get the other 90 degree marks. I use 3/4 preload on my hydraulic lifters and Randy mentions, I check the whole mess again.
 

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Originally posted by Big-Foot:
Roller rockers will add slightly more noise to the mix.
Did you check your pushrod length to make sure you have the correct geometry with those heads?

One more thought - if you are running pushrod guideplates - make sure your roller rockers are not the self-aligning style. If they are, you need to remove the guideplates as the two designs are rarely compatible with each other..
Thanks Randy!


I made sure that I installed the correct geometry pushrods from Trick flow to work with the heads.
I will check the guideplates to see if I installed them as well.

thanks again

Gord FFR 2359
 

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Another thing to look out for is lifters that are full of oil and don't collapse right away.
When I first installed my rockers, several of the lifters were "solid" and actually opened the valve a bit when the pre-load was cranked in.
It setteled down after a few minutes, but it could seriously mess with you if you don't see what's happening.
 
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